Have these questions been answered? I’m reviewing this thread and trying to figure out if I should immediately change from my current 97506 plugs to 94201. Thanks.
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PROMO Nexsys Motorsport N54 Ignition Coil Upgrade Kit
- Thread starter bahn
- Start date
Are you referring to the two bolts which mount the NXM aluminum plate to the valve cover? Both are required? Thanks...
Hey @Traf great question, the ignition coil boots themselves are supporting most of the weight of the coil and bracket. The two bolts are simply ensuring the coils cant be pushed off of the spark plugs
(I’m running just the rear one with my PR bracket as I over torqued and snapped off the front aluminum bolt in the valve cover DOH!)
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No issues running 94201 in my setup. For peace of mind, I would say both are required. Like bahn says most of the security is done by the 6 coil boots but you do have a bit of spring on each coil pushing the coil pack upwards.
The Spark position (not sure if it is the right word) is nearly the stock plug.
Stock = 5mm
95770 = 5mm
97506 = 6mm
94201 = 4.7mm
But I'm not sure it's going to have a big impact.
Hey Tony, I got your email and will send you a reply shortly (I don't work on weekends so I'm just getting to email today).
Hey there, I have the brackets in stock right now just waiting on another shipment of 300 longer coil boots. COVID has manufacturing slowed way down so coupled with the large number of pre-orders we have we're a bit back logged right now. Kits are being shipped out daily but at the moment you're looking at a 3-4 week lead time so I recommend purchasing asap if you want a kit. I can't thank everyone enough for their support and patience!
Thanks. I spent an hour last summer trying to bore it and extract it. It’s at a weird angle. I’ll try again when it finally warms up around here in Philly.
Those bolt extractors should be considered a last resort in my opinion.
If you haven't looked, there are some really clever YouTubes on bolt extraction techniques.
My favorite is to drill a hole through a socket head bolt to use as a centering guide to drill into the broken bolt. THEN try the extractor and tap the extractor with a mallet to help seat it AND to shock the bolt to remove stress on the binding threads.
If you haven't looked, there are some really clever YouTubes on bolt extraction techniques.
My favorite is to drill a hole through a socket head bolt to use as a centering guide to drill into the broken bolt. THEN try the extractor and tap the extractor with a mallet to help seat it AND to shock the bolt to remove stress on the binding threads.
Left-hand drill bit, with @NoQuarter's approach, and you may not even need to get to the extractor part!
Filippo
Filippo
Agreed. The heat is key and the drilling in the correct direction may be all that is needed.
If you try again, get a thread going on it. Would love to see the progress and enjoy your success!
If you try again, get a thread going on it. Would love to see the progress and enjoy your success!
These are all good ideas. Knowing me, I’d probably drill straight through the valve cover and create a new VTA for a second catch can LOL!
So if I understand well, if one does not have problems with coils, this would be "just" a reliability upgrade? Can the differences be seen on logs? Will you post some guys? I saw some links in this thread but it looks like it does not work anymore.
edit: Is it right, that this upgrade might also safe the mosfets in ECU so that they (mosfets) are not so loaded? Or.. does the current go through ECU, or it goes straight from the battery?
edit: Is it right, that this upgrade might also safe the mosfets in ECU so that they (mosfets) are not so loaded? Or.. does the current go through ECU, or it goes straight from the battery?
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As far as I know all the coil upgrades are more reliable and don't do much else... I will be moving from the R8 ones to these just to get rid of the audi parts from my car, lol.
For the mosfets, don't the mosfets only deal with the injectors and not with the coilpacks ?
