N54 DCT w/M3 Conversion
- Thread starter dyezak
- Start date
All of you Z4 peeps are making me want to switch my 335is over to a Z4 35is
Only if you want a real challenge...
I am maxing my strength out trying to pump the press any more... Not wanting to budge at all!
I sprayed more PB Blaster on it... will try a shorter extension to reduce the misalignment... it's hard to keep this thing straight.
LOL... If it is worse than this... I SCREAM UNCLE!
Unfortunately you can see the other side of the axle just hanging.I have no clue how to get these axles out. I tried a sledge and brass punch, plenty of p-blaster, now trying a hydraulic press.
Feels like this hydraulic press is doing dick all. Was coated in oil out of box...
Not having luck like @dyezak did in his video:
Tried tapping on the hub while press was tightened... no budging. At a loss.
View attachment 37053
I tried using the axle nut with impact socket to try to give more push (using threads instead of the center of the axle).... not much luck.
Today I sprayed Deep Creep instead of PB Blaster. I ordered AeroKroil as well...
Strapped down the 3 jaw.
But the hydraulic jack/pump/press in the 3 jaw isn't moving anymore. I can pump it but it only barely moves, stops when any resistance is felt. I am thinking air in the hydraulic chamber or something... need to figure out how to get the 'pump handle' out of the top so I can fill with hydraulic oil? Why more problems....
hahaha, thank you for those kinds of reminders... sure did. I also checked realoem for any retaining clips, etc...
Are you hitting the hub with a hammer while the jack is on?
@derekgates have you tried adding a shock to it while it's under load? ie use a different extension and hit the axle with a hammer while the puller is tensioned. It's a sketchy practice but I've had luck doing it to remove 250hp electric motor bearings that were pretty well seized in. Just be cautious of the potential for more sudden flying parts 
Or of course you could apply heat, but you maychange the metallurgical properties of your materials if you go over about 200F.
I'd say hit the puller itself if you were using a mechanical screw type, but definitely not the hydraulic.
Or of course you could apply heat, but you maychange the metallurgical properties of your materials if you go over about 200F.
I'd say hit the puller itself if you were using a mechanical screw type, but definitely not the hydraulic.
You posted this as I was typing the same idea haha, great minds think alike
I have been trying. I have a 5lb sledge that I have been tapping the hub with, also doing that after application of penetrating oil. Might need some more time with that oil; I keep re-applying and tapping/rotating the hub.
@derekgates have you tried adding a shock to it while it's under load? ie use a different extension and hit the axle with a hammer while the puller is tensioned. It's a sketchy practice but I've had luck doing it to remove 250hp electric motor bearings that were pretty well seized in. Just be cautious of the potential for more sudden flying parts
Or of course you could apply heat, but you maychange the metallurgical properties of your materials if you go over about 200F.
I'd say hit the puller itself if you were using a mechanical screw type, but definitely not the hydraulic.
Ha, yeah I was trying that this morning. Earlier this morning the hydraulic was working and extending the full reach but now it doesn't want to push... unsure what is going on.
I was using the brass punch to tap different areas with the sledge... Didn't hear a pop of corrosion letting go, unfortunately. Just a TAP TAP TAP TAP TAP TAP TAP TAP TAP TAP TAP DAMNIT TAP TAP TAP TAP TAP TAP TAP TAP TAP.
Well I might have a defective press...
www.harborfreight.com
Reviews seem to have the same problems I have; the cylinder has oil bypass issues and does not press. A few other people think the 12 ton rating is a joke as well.
Will exchange 12 ton press for another.
Saw recommendation for OTC (7394): https://www.amazon.com/OTC-7394-Universal-Hub-Puller/dp/B0002SRH60#customerReviews
A consideration.
Harbor Freight Tools – Quality Tools at Discount Prices Since 1977
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Reviews seem to have the same problems I have; the cylinder has oil bypass issues and does not press. A few other people think the 12 ton rating is a joke as well.
Will exchange 12 ton press for another.
Saw recommendation for OTC (7394): https://www.amazon.com/OTC-7394-Universal-Hub-Puller/dp/B0002SRH60#customerReviews
A consideration.
Or you could use my dads method; swing progressively bigger hammers at it until the whole subframe falls out of the car. Then blame the mess he made on BMW and their poor workmanship.
I noticed on dyezaks video that the axle underneath the car jumps up when it finally let’s go. Perhaps supporting the inside mass of axle in line with the splines of the axles might help. I’m thinking maybe the fact it’s dangling is making it jam up ?
ive heard of people struggling to get these things out only to give the hub to a shop and what it “fall” out with little effort... worth a shot and costs nothing but some twine?
ive heard of people struggling to get these things out only to give the hub to a shop and what it “fall” out with little effort... worth a shot and costs nothing but some twine?
I pulled off the pointed piece on the 12 ton puller tool as it wouldn't allow me to keep anything straight. I believe I used a regular impact extension with the pointed tip on the puller removed. It took damn near all "12" tons of force that puller had to break them free the first time. I also used TONS of wd-40 and heat to try to break up some of the corossion.
Got the OTC puller from Summit racing (https://www.otctools.com/products/universal-hub-puller-tool-wrench)
I have been beating the axle with a hammer, using the Milwaukee impact on it, using DeepCreep penetrating oil, etc... NOT BUDGING
Damn, that's crazy! I returned the 12 ton as it kept bypassing oil internally, just like the 5 ton. They work for 4-5 pumps and then die out.
What kind of heat did you use? I don't have acetylene torch but I have a heat gun and a propane torch. Was thinking the heatgun *miiiight* work?
I have been beating the axle with a hammer, using the Milwaukee impact on it, using DeepCreep penetrating oil, etc... NOT BUDGING
Damn, that's crazy! I returned the 12 ton as it kept bypassing oil internally, just like the 5 ton. They work for 4-5 pumps and then die out.
What kind of heat did you use? I don't have acetylene torch but I have a heat gun and a propane torch. Was thinking the heatgun *miiiight* work?
I didn't have any issues with it bypassing oil, in fact I've used it a few more times as I had to pop an axle back out and it was still a bi#*%, but not anywhere near as bad as the first time. I just used a small propane torch, it's all I had. Not sure if it helped or not but I figured its better to try than not.
Heat with a torch is next. Failing that, seperate the hub from the subframe and give it to a shop. Man its really fighting you ... Its a test Derek.... dont give up !
BREAKING NEWS
PEEKABOO
After hours of hitting the OTC puller with a sledge hammer, using propane torch and DeepCreep, Milwaukee M12 Impact over and over... Today I received my package of AeroKroil and repeating the sledge hammer action and Milwaukee... SUDDENLY WE HAVE MOVEMENT
oops,
PEEKABOO
After hours of hitting the OTC puller with a sledge hammer, using propane torch and DeepCreep, Milwaukee M12 Impact over and over... Today I received my package of AeroKroil and repeating the sledge hammer action and Milwaukee... SUDDENLY WE HAVE MOVEMENT
oops,
