N54 DCT w/M3 Conversion

NoQuarter

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Nov 24, 2017
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Those rotors can really get stuck on there. You may need to resort to heat and heavy whacks. Be prepared with a new rotor and put them back on with a clean hub and liberal use of copper antiseize on the mating surface.
 

derekgates

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Those rotors can really get stuck on there. You may need to resort to heat and heavy whacks. Be prepared with a new rotor and put them back on with a clean hub and liberal use of copper antiseize on the mating surface.




Yeah they certainly get stuck. I changed rotors/pads but do not have them in my maintenance log nor in my orders from ECS or FCP. I really wanted to refresh the entire hub/rotor/pad assemblies but the effort and money involved is staggering.


I will consider new rotors/pads. I went OE rotors (Zimmerman) and pads (BMW OE) last time. Is there a new hotness?

Was thinking a kit like https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw-brake-kit-front-and-rear-e90-e92-e93-akebono-34216855004ktfr6
 
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NoQuarter

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Finally got to do a test drive after my conversion over the winter.

The drivelogoc button changes the levels but I don't think anything is changing in how it drives. No mater the level, it wants to go to gear 7 as soon a possible and drive very conservatively.

Manual mode is pretty good but definitely some gear changing issues.

Where is that graphic that was posted a few days ago on getting into launch mode? I can't find it again.
 

derekgates

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Finally got to do a test drive after my conversion over the winter.

The drivelogoc button changes the levels but I don't think anything is changing in how it drives. No mater the level, it wants to go to gear 7 as soon a possible and drive very conservatively.

Manual mode is pretty good but definitely some gear changing issues.

Where is that graphic that was posted a few days ago on getting into launch mode? I can't find it again.

The discussion started:


Has videos/graphics/etc.



What is the level of conversion you performed? Changed the diff ratio, performed all coding, etc?
 

NoQuarter

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The discussion started:


Has videos/graphics/etc.



What is the level of conversion you performed? Changed the diff ratio, performed all coding, etc?

Thanks for the link.

No work on the diff.

I have all the coding completed (I think) and the shifter lights, the dash display with drive logic, the proper large D and gear indicator.

My sport mode does not display in the dash but when I go to sport+ I do get the DSC light which is normal
 

derekgates

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Thanks for the link.

No work on the diff.

I have all the coding completed (I think) and the shifter lights, the dash display with drive logic, the proper large D and gear indicator.

My sport mode does not display in the dash but when I go to sport+ I do get the DSC light which is normal

Alright sounds like you have the software going. That is how far I got in 2018. I felt the same behavior and then we discovered the software's desired 3.15 ratio needing to be within 10% on the car otherwise the TCU slips the clutch trying to match the desired RPM based on the lookup tables for the M3 diff ratio.

This is why I am going through the absolute hell of changing my diff/axles/driveshaft... Others change the R&P to 2.81 or similar...


What ratio are you running in the rear?
 

derekgates

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2.53 (I think). I always have to look it up

Prob a 2.54...


You are going to need to do some more work to get this functioning properly. You can change out the diff R&P to a 2.81, you can swap M3 diff in (3.51), etc.

@LMB335is bought a used R&P from an 8 series.
@azshantris swapped in a R&P from a 335D into his 1 series: https://www.spoolstreet.com/threads/e82-n55-dct-w-m3-gts.6187/

There has been effort to try to change the lookup tables or intercept the signals that the TCU is receiving about wheel speed/rpm/??? but there hasn't been a solution in software *yet*.
 
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derekgates

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I’m running a Quaife 2.81 diff and it seems to be running fine.

Awesome!

This is where I wanted to be (instead of 3.15) but the M3 diff is 'ready to go' and has benefits compared to retrofitting the 2.81 into my diff (or diffs, I have 2 large DCT diffs in my garage).


Regardless, the car needs to be closer to 3.15 than the 2.56 provides.
 

NoQuarter

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What diff I can make work for the Z4 is still an unknown for me. Now that I have a lift I am more inclined to try and figure it out but first priority is to make sure I can drive the car this season.

I got it to go into launch mode (no foot on brake), hold shifter into 1st gear to get the flag, but as soon as I try and step on the gas, it wants to creep forward. No sure if I was rolling down an incline or if the trans was pushing. I'll try again in another location.
 

derekgates

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What diff I can make work for the Z4 is still an unknown for me. Now that I have a lift I am more inclined to try and figure it out but first priority is to make sure I can drive the car this season.

I got it to go into launch mode (no foot on brake), hold shifter into 1st gear to get the flag, but as soon as I try and step on the gas, it wants to creep forward. No sure if I was rolling down an incline or if the trans was pushing. I'll try again in another location.

I had to revert my car's GWS and coding due to the diff ratio issue. It won't get better, unfortunately. :(
 

Seb335i

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Here are all the ZUSB numbers from an E93 LCI M3

WBSDX91060E369733


00 9305737 JBBF E369733
01 9248298 MRS E369733
12 7846405 DME/DDE E369733
18 7846040 EGS E369733
24 9281722 CVM/CTM E369733
27 9147052 PGS E369733
29 7846816 DSC E369733
36 9257165 MULF E369733
37 9218086 AMP E369733
39 6788790 EDC E369733
40 9237046 CAS E369733
41 9147997 DWA E369733
4B 9240643 VIDEO E369733
56 9225701 FZD E369733
5E 7842102 GWS E369733
5F 9225989 FLA E369733
60 7844314 KOMBI E369733
61 9257166 FBI E369733
62 9257183 MOSTGW E369733
63 9257172 CCC E369733
64 9252638 PDC E369733
67 9334611 ZBE E369733
6D 9264974 FAS E369733
6E 9264974 BFS E369733
72 9390487 FRM E369733
73 9211969 CID E369733
78 9292262 KLIMA E369733
92 9180490 VIRTSG92 0000000
A0 9257185 CCC E369733
 
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derekgates

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12 ton press can’t really reach the axle so I used my brass press....which bent.

22C79C28-029A-4DE9-9554-5E52A3CEF788.jpeg
C9F4277E-3D2C-4501-BDBC-26F7DE4EC7BB.jpeg
DF2E5E74-B470-4D9F-9C4E-05271252B29E.jpeg


Axle is not budging still.

Considering an impact extension in place of the brass?

Not sure what @dyezak was using in his video:
 
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derekgates

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It’s fighting you That is seriously in there!itll be that much sweeter when you finish. Agree need a hardened piece in there for sure. I’d also wrap a tie strap around it for safety.

For real! This must be the hardest part of the swap.

Having trouble finding a hardened piece of metal.

Good idea on tie strap

It looks like @dyezak is using a extension between it.
Agree. Was thinking an impact extension but do not have one in tool box. ACE only has non hardened extensions. Might use a socket
 
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