Want to know something else that you'll love? If you're using those axles again(not sure what you're doing exactly) you'll have a lovely time getting them back in lol, unless you have a tool.
N54 DCT w/M3 Conversion
- Thread starter dyezak
- Start date
hmm? I am swapping to M3 axles so I can use the M3 diff in garage.
These are my stock axles. Pushing them out to finish this swap.
I am cleaning everything up with brass brushes. Why do I need a tool?
Oh no, I meant if you were going to re-use those and install them back into the same hubs, it was going to be a royal bitch unless you had the axle install tool to pull them back through the hub. I damaged one of my stock axles trying to get it back in lol, even after wire brushing and getting off every bit of corrossion that I could on the axles and hub
BREAKING NEWS
View attachment 37446View attachment 37447
PEEKABOO
After hours of hitting the OTC puller with a sledge hammer, using propane torch and DeepCreep, Milwaukee M12 Impact over and over... Today I received my package of AeroKroil and repeating the sledge hammer action and Milwaukee... SUDDENLY WE HAVE MOVEMENT
View attachment 37448
oops,
Congratulations on your persistence mate!!! Must feel like you’ve accomplished the impossible !!!!
Cant wait to read that it’s all in and slamming gears like mofo. Not far now.
Cant wait to read that it’s all in and slamming gears like mofo. Not far now.
Wooah
We're half way there
Woah-oh
Living on a prayer
I haven’t even started the driver’s side!
I wish this on nobody. I hope everyone has a much easier time (or just buys a complete rear end from M3)
20 minutes later....
Driver's side was done!
I want to list what made this easy for me. @aus335iguy was absolutely right about keep the axle propped up, I did so with a jackstand and made sure there were NO obstructions/binding up that could happen (which I had on passenger side at the end)...
Braced the axle with a jack this time, used hammer a bunch more and braced with wood like passenger side. Cleaned it up with kroil and brass brush.
- Hold up axle with a jackstand or similar 'shelf' to allow the axle to be pushed out easily.
- Spray Kroil (AeroKroil) in the splines of axle multiple times with quick bursts, trying to get into each splines. Use the deal such as http://www.kanolabs.com/google/ for Kroil
- Use the OTC 7394 puller https://www.otctools.com/products/universal-hub-puller-tool-wrench and make sure this is centered into axle! (a mistake I made on drivers side). Take your time.
- Wedge a piece of wood to prevent OTC from turning with hammer blows. I first used a jackstand but it ended up hitting the threads of the puller and messing it upt, ugh.
- Spray Kroil yet again.
- Use a 5lb sledge on the OTC puller, simultaneously trying to get the Kroil in splines and to turn the bolt of the puller
- You can attempt to use impact driver at this point. I used my Milwaukee M12 to help get the bolt to turn.
- Kroil and sledge hammer until axle is free! (mix in impact driver if you want)
The takeways here are the wood bracing, kroil application and using the sledge hammer primarily with the OTC puller. Way easier.
I cleaned up the splines in the axle with a brass brush and the Kroil. I followed with shop towels.
Threads of the M3 axles and the splines have been brass brushed and individually cleaned with a mini screwdriver to ensure a smooth re-entry. I will use copper antiseize.
Size difference of the axles. The 335is has tiny axles!
Whew.
What's left
- Drop diff, subframe (if I can't reach diff bushings).
- Replace bushings for diff with Powerflex purple.
- Install m3 diff and axles.
- Install GWS and coding.
- Install exhaust
- Install Ohlins
Driver's side was done!
I want to list what made this easy for me. @aus335iguy was absolutely right about keep the axle propped up, I did so with a jackstand and made sure there were NO obstructions/binding up that could happen (which I had on passenger side at the end)...
Braced the axle with a jack this time, used hammer a bunch more and braced with wood like passenger side. Cleaned it up with kroil and brass brush.
- Hold up axle with a jackstand or similar 'shelf' to allow the axle to be pushed out easily.
- Spray Kroil (AeroKroil) in the splines of axle multiple times with quick bursts, trying to get into each splines. Use the deal such as http://www.kanolabs.com/google/ for Kroil
- Use the OTC 7394 puller https://www.otctools.com/products/universal-hub-puller-tool-wrench and make sure this is centered into axle! (a mistake I made on drivers side). Take your time.
- Wedge a piece of wood to prevent OTC from turning with hammer blows. I first used a jackstand but it ended up hitting the threads of the puller and messing it upt, ugh.
- Spray Kroil yet again.
- Use a 5lb sledge on the OTC puller, simultaneously trying to get the Kroil in splines and to turn the bolt of the puller
- You can attempt to use impact driver at this point. I used my Milwaukee M12 to help get the bolt to turn.
- Kroil and sledge hammer until axle is free! (mix in impact driver if you want)
The takeways here are the wood bracing, kroil application and using the sledge hammer primarily with the OTC puller. Way easier.
I cleaned up the splines in the axle with a brass brush and the Kroil. I followed with shop towels.
Threads of the M3 axles and the splines have been brass brushed and individually cleaned with a mini screwdriver to ensure a smooth re-entry. I will use copper antiseize.
Size difference of the axles. The 335is has tiny axles!
Whew.
What's left
- Drop diff, subframe (if I can't reach diff bushings).
- Replace bushings for diff with Powerflex purple.
- Install m3 diff and axles.
- Install GWS and coding.
- Install exhaust
- Install Ohlins
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Right? On Friday I felt like I didn't need to accomplish anything this weekend because this was enough for me!
I was about to start telling this story about how hard it was to get my 335 axle out then I remembered it wasn't me at all!
Yeah I'm all bummed about spend the day from 6am to 9pm beating my head against the wall on several things and getting pretty much nowhere ... and then I am relieved by the follies of others! What a relief hahahahaRight? On Friday I felt like I didn't need to accomplish anything this weekend because this was enough for me!
I was about to start telling this story about how hard it was to get my 335 axle out then I remembered it wasn't me at all!
Filippo
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@derekgates
Been waiting for the Next episode in your new hit series. The cliffhanger from the last one has me ready for more!
Been waiting for the Next episode in your new hit series. The cliffhanger from the last one has me ready for more!
hahaha. The diff has been dropped. I am now stuck trying to get the rear bushing removed. I have a bushing press kit but the rear bushing is larger than the cups I have; looks like I need a 3" or so (considering a PVC coupler from hardware store...)
I started reinstalling the Ohlins and realized I lost my adjuster wrenches, backordered.
Once I can figure out a large cup to pull bushing and get wrenches then I will get further!
How is your progress with the project? Looks like you are doing the M3 swap as well as the 7 series intake?
I won't be trying an M3 swap on the Z4 but I can get a Z4 Diff with a wave track in the correct ratio.
Waiting to see how yours turns out with the ratio change to see what's still left to do after that.
The 740 intake conversion is mostly complete but I need to wrap up the cold air intake bit.
Waiting to see how yours turns out with the ratio change to see what's still left to do after that.
The 740 intake conversion is mostly complete but I need to wrap up the cold air intake bit.
BQ Tuning N54 Intake Conversion
I get the idea here, but as I didn't watch the entire thing, someone care to elaborate on what exactly is being done here?
www.spoolstreet.com
Only thing that bothers me about this swap is the vmax... Spotted some 335i dkg video where someone states it revs up to vmax of 315kph, so considering m3 diff being 3.15 and 335i dkg diff being 2.56 is 256kph the max on that diff? Can somene confirm that? Can someone post some video?
