"By drilling the cap you made it an open system which does not seal under boost, the whole idea of the valve is for it to be closed when no
vacuum is present and basically your high side is not working properly anymore."
There is never a seal under boost. In a stock system, the flapper valve opens. In my case, a checkvalve opens and vents to atmosphere.
"You are also allowing for the motor to suck moisture in when its not running as its now open to the elements."
Just like the stock flapper you mean?
I did the measurements and you do the same when cutting the spring. The white plunger barely has a mm of pre-load. Taking anything off the spring will cause the plunger to no longer seal and possibly no longer sit straight on the spring. I would never cut the spring.
"You will also get oil coming out of the valve under high boost leaking on your rocker cover and belts."
No troubles with this so far. The high side VTA releases pressure.
"For the high side valve to fully open it needs a closed system to push it open by building pressure in the system from blowby and the rear turbo applying suction on it to help open, by you running an open system you greatly reduced this capability and the pressure will escape at the path of least resistence which you made by drilling these two holes."
My high side valve cracking pressure is somewhere around 0.1 psi and thus will open easily. Also, I am single turbo.
In a stock system, the rear turbo's suction effect is of no significance of opening the flapper valve compared to the vacuum/pressure in the crank case.
And yes it will escape at the path of least resistance, which is my 10AN high side vent.
Either way this valve needs to go. It does not work for our engine wether you drill a hole or cut the spring. I'm still looking for an alternative.
vacuum is present and basically your high side is not working properly anymore."
There is never a seal under boost. In a stock system, the flapper valve opens. In my case, a checkvalve opens and vents to atmosphere.
"You are also allowing for the motor to suck moisture in when its not running as its now open to the elements."
Just like the stock flapper you mean?
I did the measurements and you do the same when cutting the spring. The white plunger barely has a mm of pre-load. Taking anything off the spring will cause the plunger to no longer seal and possibly no longer sit straight on the spring. I would never cut the spring.
"You will also get oil coming out of the valve under high boost leaking on your rocker cover and belts."
No troubles with this so far. The high side VTA releases pressure.
"For the high side valve to fully open it needs a closed system to push it open by building pressure in the system from blowby and the rear turbo applying suction on it to help open, by you running an open system you greatly reduced this capability and the pressure will escape at the path of least resistence which you made by drilling these two holes."
My high side valve cracking pressure is somewhere around 0.1 psi and thus will open easily. Also, I am single turbo.
In a stock system, the rear turbo's suction effect is of no significance of opening the flapper valve compared to the vacuum/pressure in the crank case.
And yes it will escape at the path of least resistance, which is my 10AN high side vent.
Either way this valve needs to go. It does not work for our engine wether you drill a hole or cut the spring. I'm still looking for an alternative.