Ad: Product Release - VTT Billet Vacuum Relief Valve

[syn909]

@martymil If you look at the photo of my vacuum gauge it says the inside lower reading is "in Hg vac" but am I correct that the marking is actually .5 not 5.0?

I ran it first with one shim and got a crazy loud resonance sound from the engine.

Right now it looks to be in spec at .6 or 14" just wanted to confirm with you guys on here with my reading attached

 

[martymil]

yes thats 5.5 inhg the outside is 14cmhg so within spec what vtt recommends.

Stock is 17 mbar or 0.5 inhg or 1.2 cmhg

I personally can't run anymore than 2 inhg without one of the seals whistling like crazy

I see it this way as long as you run anything higher than stock without seals whistling you will be ok.

 

[syn909]

If your running the billet vacuum relief valve off the valve cover PCV high side with a Y block adapter shouldn't we also have a check valve inline on the vacuum relief so it does not come out that way and goes to the catch can

 

[martymil]

The vacuum relief valve is a one way metered check valve once no vacuum is present the relief valve closes

 

[JonEQuest]

I am a little confused at all the ways of doing this. When I rebuilt my N54 last year I blocked the 6 ports in the head with Alan screws. I also added an oil catch can before the rear turbo inlet. I used 2.5' hoses back and forth and it sits right by the left strut tower. I am getting some oil trapped in the can (which is good), BUT I am also getting plenty of oil going past the catch can and going through my rear turbo. What should I do next? It seems like I may need to add the low side catch can right? Is it possible I have a bad PCV valve somewhere as well? I am replacing my turbos now and want to resolve this before I gunk up a new turbo with oil.

 

[martymil]

I finally resolved why my motor wasnt holding the 6"hg at idle, it was my super expensive flapper valve on the high side.

Replaced it with the vtt one way valve and no issues since, got to say save your self the headache and get these as they work brilliantly
and are quite cheap compared to the rest.

 

[syn909]

@martymil any idea on the torque spec for that m18 x 1.5 banjo bolt? Also anyone looking for a banjo bolt this works: https://www.ebay.com/itm/MAMBA-Bill...e=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649

 

[martymil]

Same as BMW spec for the block off.

It wouldn't be much, most likely around 20nm

 

[syn909]

It does not NEED it's own dedicated hole in the VC.
View attachment 28627

@doublespaces Im trying to figure out what AN connections you have on the high and low side there? Really dig the fitment, on the high side it looks like 10an female couple, to a an10 male to female going to a 10an 90 degree? Is the same on the high side?

 

[doublespaces]

@doublespaces Im trying to figure out what AN connections you have on the high and low side there? Really dig the fitment, on the high side it looks like 10an female couple, to a an10 male to female going to a 10an 90 degree? Is the same on the high side?

Want to buy it?

I deleted the PCV stuff so I don't actually need it anymore. Here is the info:

2009 E93 ADE Single Turbo Build

Also would love info on your PCV/catch can setup. Need to decide on a solution w/ my ST build getting closer. For some background, I was inspired to do this dual can setup after seeing this one: I am not a fan of this spaghetti mess of hoses, nor the size or price of the radium cans, so I...

bmw.spoolstreet.com

 

[syn909]

Want to buy it?

I deleted the PCV stuff so I don't actually need it anymore. Here is the info:

2009 E93 ADE Single Turbo Build

Also would love info on your PCV/catch can setup. Need to decide on a solution w/ my ST build getting closer. For some background, I was inspired to do this dual can setup after seeing this one: I am not a fan of this spaghetti mess of hoses, nor the size or price of the radium cans, so I...

bmw.spoolstreet.com

@doublespaces actually, I almost bought that double o-ring fitting vadar fitting as I am getting a vacuum leak from the standard c-clip high side fitting. So far the VTT one was a total fail, would not stay on and then the ACF fitting leaks with the vacuum relief. You went with the aluminum valve cover? Just DM me we can sort it out

 

[STE92]

I currently have vtt dual catch can
Vtt valve cover w/vaccum relief valve (no shims)
Low side>to can>check valve>IM
Highy side> check valve>catch can> vtA

My low side is filling up way too quick... have to empty weekly. Has anybody had this issue? Any ideas why it migh this be. Motor is built slightly higher compression.

 

[martymil]

That's normal dude, it means its working correctly.

the only other way is to replace the low side catch can with an oil/air separator with a built in heater.

Most are bulky and don't fit in our engine bays, I made one for myself but it was cost prohibitive for most.

 

[STE92]

That's normal dude, it means its working correctly.

the only other way is to replace the low side catch can with an oil/air separator with a built in heater.

Most are bulky and don't fit in our engine bays, I made one for myself but it was cost prohibitive for most.

Thanks...also realized weather got cold as hell past week this will have a bigger affect it since its a built engine.

 

[martymil]

Cold weather has a great effect as it collects a lot more moisture.

 

[Sausage]

@martymil any idea on the torque spec for that m18 x 1.5 banjo bolt? Also anyone looking for a banjo bolt this works: https://www.ebay.com/itm/MAMBA-Billet-T6-Aluminum-Banjo-Bolt-Kit-M18-x-P1-5-to-10AN-AN10-18MM-Oil-Cooler/264520063453?ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649

How would that work? It's a AN10 male. The relief valve is -10 ORB

 

[Sausage]

Unfortunately this product did not work as expected for me.

New build engine
RB (Toyota) one-way valve between manifold and low side catchcan
VTT -10 barb oneway valve on high side. Vent to atmo

With the relief valve in its loosest position (no shims) resulted in 120-140 mbar of vacuum on cold start. Which sounded fine.
After engine was up to temp, it was squeeling through the crank seal. So it's probably pulling more vacuum (200mbar+) but I forgot to measure.

To try and resolve this, I drilled a 1mm hole in the white plastic stopper inside the relief valve. This way i always have some relief. Just like the stock flapper valve.
I will drive and measure again next week to see what this results in.

 

[martymil]

Unfortunately this product did not work as expected for me.

New build engine
RB (Toyota) one-way valve between manifold and low side catchcan
VTT -10 barb oneway valve on high side. Vent to atmo

With the relief valve in its loosest position (no shims) resulted in 120-140 mbar of vacuum on cold start. Which sounded fine.
After engine was up to temp, it was squeeling through the crank seal. So it's probably pulling more vacuum (200mbar+) but I forgot to measure.

To try and resolve this, I drilled a 1mm hole in the white plastic stopper inside the relief valve. This way i always have some relief. Just like the stock flapper valve.
I will drive and measure again next week to see what this results in.

if you read the forums the issue has been addressed, you need to trim the spring 1/4 to 1/2 a turn at a time and test until it stops squealing, using mbar it should be around 40 to 60 mbar factory is around 10 to 20mbar, if you cut to much use the shims to bring it back up.

 

[Sausage]

Drilling 2x 2mm holes in the white cap solved the issue. Idling at a nice 80-90mbar. Squeeling started/stopped at 112mbar.

 

[martymil]

By drilling the cap you made it an open system which does not seal under boost, the whole idea of the valve is for it to be closed when no
vacuum is present and basically your high side is not working properly anymore.

Basically your high side won't be scavenging gasses properly or not working properly and minimising the lifespan of your oil.

You are also allowing for the motor to suck moisture in when its not running as its now open to the elements.

You will also get oil coming out of the valve under high boost leaking on your rocker cover and belts.

For the high side valve to fully open it needs a closed system to push it open by building pressure in the system from blowby and the rear turbo applying suction on it to help open, by you running an open system you greatly reduced this capability and the pressure will escape at the path of least resistence which you made by drilling these two holes.