I've ordered two relief valves this week and will be doing the head port way on my 1m and 335, want to keep it as stealth as possible.
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- Thread starter Chris@VargasTurboTech
- Start date
@Chris@VargasTurboTech ] what if I am using my own dual cans but with the BMS oil catch can for the high side with your flapper and pcv delete and setup like the "external pcv routing using dual vtt catch cans" diagram except with BMS high side oil catch and generic low side oil catch cans?
As long as the lines/sizes are sufficient I'd think that'd work ok (I'm not sure what they are or how they compare to ours, and I'd be guessing with yea/nay).
Here is how we suggest running the system with a relief. We have test fit, and the relief fits the front port on the Billet, and Cast VC's with no issue.
So I finally got around to fitting my custom pcv system and tuned the vacuum relief valve.
Intial impressions are the car runs a lot smoother and on/off throttle transitions are silky.
Opening my factory flapper valve found that the seal was cracked or ripped and it only has 30k miles on it.
Cant explain how much nicer the car runs with a properly working PCV system.
Got to say the Vacuum relief valve is a nice bit of gear and easy to tune.
Intial impressions are the car runs a lot smoother and on/off throttle transitions are silky.
Opening my factory flapper valve found that the seal was cracked or ripped and it only has 30k miles on it.
Cant explain how much nicer the car runs with a properly working PCV system.
Got to say the Vacuum relief valve is a nice bit of gear and easy to tune.
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I have a few concerns with this. Is it drawing in unfiltered air into the crankcase? Also has this been tested in cold climates to ensure the valve doesn't ice over? There's a reason the stock pcv has a heater on the elbow. Also the way the stock system worked, very little vacuum was kept at idle. Is this mainly for those running a dedicated vacuum pump on the crankcase?
As I only live in a extremely hot climate I've removed the heater but at the same time the oem flapper wasn't working properly it the first place.
The oem flapper is not cheap and fails easily but if you look at the relief valve design its far superior at metering vacuum and you can easily dial in
how much you want, if your worried about unfiltered air put a crankcase filter over the top of it and problem solved like the one in the link below.
You can still run the heater with the aftermarket flapper valve if you live in a cold climate, as the flapper is at the back of the engine where all the heat is
and condensation build up in the flapper will melt during warm up if any has managed to form which I highly doubt as the valve is internally covered in oil as its before the catch can.
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The oem flapper is not cheap and fails easily but if you look at the relief valve design its far superior at metering vacuum and you can easily dial in
how much you want, if your worried about unfiltered air put a crankcase filter over the top of it and problem solved like the one in the link below.
You can still run the heater with the aftermarket flapper valve if you live in a cold climate, as the flapper is at the back of the engine where all the heat is
and condensation build up in the flapper will melt during warm up if any has managed to form which I highly doubt as the valve is internally covered in oil as its before the catch can.
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@martymil can you post up some pictures of how you installed it. Like the location..
It's been awhile and I was hoping to see some more installed by now.
When I get into work on Monday I can search on tis for the crank case pressure/vacuum sib.
It has all the engines and their spec in mbar at operating temps.
It's been awhile and I was hoping to see some more installed by now.
When I get into work on Monday I can search on tis for the crank case pressure/vacuum sib.
It has all the engines and their spec in mbar at operating temps.
Ahhh brilliant idea! The thread is kinda jumbled was that the Amazon part that was link on one of the posts! If not where could I find such a fitting?
Just want to confirm, that I can do this with the Flapper delete fitting using a Y fitting with this vacuum relief on one side and the other side going to a catch can? Im running stock Valve cover with pcv ports plugged. with dual catch cans. High side being the BMS setup routed back to inlet.
Please elaborate? Im just saying VTT site says: "For the BMW N54 we suggest anywhere from 10-14″ of vacuum going higher can cause..." So what should I set mine for? Since the sims seem to allow for specific adjustment just wondering whats ideal
Shim are only guidelines, the proper way of setting the right vacuum or vacuum you want is using a gauge on the valve cover.
Factory setting is 0.5 in/hg or 17mBar
One of my seals whistles at 3.5 in/hg so I set it at 2 in/hg by trimming the spring and adjusting with the supplied washers, still way better
than factory and the car runs much nicer.
Factory setting is 0.5 in/hg or 17mBar
One of my seals whistles at 3.5 in/hg so I set it at 2 in/hg by trimming the spring and adjusting with the supplied washers, still way better
than factory and the car runs much nicer.
Ignore this if you already understand, but vacuum is measured with the unit "Inches of Mercury" aka in/hg as opposed to pounds per square inch which is the unit of measurement used for positive pressure(where I live).So you have to hook up a vacuum gauge, one that displays negative pressures in this unit or you can convert to psi if you want.
So just for my understanding... and for those who are not running VTT valve cover...
Lets say you made a magic hose between the OEM cover flapper valve outlet and the OEM flapper valve itself. The vacuum relief valve could then be T-ed onto that that hose. And theoretically the VTT crankcase breather could also be T-ed onto that hose. And then the flapper valve wouldnt be needed...
In fact the high side vtt oil catch used in combination with a check valve is just an external and "cleaner" version of the oil cap crankcase breather which doesn't catch the oil
Please correct me if wrong.
Lets say you made a magic hose between the OEM cover flapper valve outlet and the OEM flapper valve itself. The vacuum relief valve could then be T-ed onto that that hose. And theoretically the VTT crankcase breather could also be T-ed onto that hose. And then the flapper valve wouldnt be needed...
In fact the high side vtt oil catch used in combination with a check valve is just an external and "cleaner" version of the oil cap crankcase breather which doesn't catch the oil
Please correct me if wrong.
