Major timing corrections, super knock & misfires
- Thread starter Msport335
- Start date
It can be clean because its only leaking at high rpm where it gets sucked straight into the engine because the air speed is high.
My intake, charge pipe and ic had no oil but was getting major corrections until I increased the vacuum in the crankcase and then it stopped.
My intake, charge pipe and ic had no oil but was getting major corrections until I increased the vacuum in the crankcase and then it stopped.
If this was a crank case vacuum issue, how could it just appear when prior to this everything ran fine with minimal correction on the same tunes? Only thing I can think of is valve cover degrading over time. How can I determine if its cracked since its not clearly visible ?
So this now brings me back to the trans and tq converter...can't think of it being anything else at this point. I have found an extremely low km 6at trans from a 2011 e93 with n55. Realoem lists it as the same trans part # as my 2009 335i n54. Now just debating on whether or not to bite the bullet and swap out the trans....
If I do, what happens with my current xhp tune and license since the new/used trans would have an unflashed tcm?
If I do, what happens with my current xhp tune and license since the new/used trans would have an unflashed tcm?
I believe it's vin locked via cas and not trans tcu so you should be able to flash the new one no issue.
I think Clemens said something about uninstalling, to be able to reinstall.
I would email him to be sure.
Confirmed with xhp that the new/used trans is compatible and just have to Uninstall xhp prior to swapping out.
I don't think the gearbox is your problem, you would feel it if it was.
I believe you have oil getting into you intake system or past the rings somehow.
Before you start swapping out gearboxes and such expensive hardware, try and increase the vacuum in the crankcase first which will help with ring seal and oil scavenging from turbo/s.
I believe you have oil getting into you intake system or past the rings somehow.
Before you start swapping out gearboxes and such expensive hardware, try and increase the vacuum in the crankcase first which will help with ring seal and oil scavenging from turbo/s.
Would the oil cap breather help ? I already have BMS Catchcan setup for years and its never given me issues
no, i think your problem is oil getting into your combustion cycle as even the smallest amounts of oil will greatly reduce your octane severely.
I've seen it many times on older motors or older turbos starting to seep oil.
They don't last forever.
Increase the vacuum in the crankcase and see if that helps before starting expensive swaps.
I've seen it many times on older motors or older turbos starting to seep oil.
They don't last forever.
Increase the vacuum in the crankcase and see if that helps before starting expensive swaps.
Should I try VTA with the return line from my BMS can vs. Routing it back to the rear turbo inlet which is the way its currently installed?
But wouldn't VTA drastically reduce the oil vapors being sucked back into the turbo inlet ? Or should I remove my catch can setup all together to see what happens
That's what your catch can is for you can just disconnect the hose and let it vent, it won't do anuthing.
As motors get older the more oil gets into the intake, the best way is to increase vacuum in the crankcase to help.
This might not be your problem but it's the cheapest to try and the most beneficial even if it's not but will rule out a lot of ifs or maybes.
As motors get older the more oil gets into the intake, the best way is to increase vacuum in the crankcase to help.
This might not be your problem but it's the cheapest to try and the most beneficial even if it's not but will rule out a lot of ifs or maybes.
Put something together yourself.
The cheapest way is just change the oem flapper to a sealed flapper or check valve with a tee piece so you can put a vacuum gauge on it and a relief valve on the head and adjust it accordingly.
You will also need to externalise the pcv valve to stop oil getting into the intake ports through the head ports.
There is a whole write on it here somewhere
The cheapest way is just change the oem flapper to a sealed flapper or check valve with a tee piece so you can put a vacuum gauge on it and a relief valve on the head and adjust it accordingly.
You will also need to externalise the pcv valve to stop oil getting into the intake ports through the head ports.
There is a whole write on it here somewhere
