Mauricio's did if I recall, he blew up going for stock turbo records though and was pretty much running 100% duty cycle with aggressive timing, I forget who was tuning him, Ken maybe at the time?
Major timing corrections, super knock & misfires
- Thread starter Msport335
- Start date
Mauricio's did if I recall, he blew up going for stock turbo records though and was pretty much running 100% duty cycle with aggressive timing, I forget who was tuning him, Ken maybe at the time?
My stock motor was making 400rwk with a cracked ring land, if I kept going it would have been disastrous but otherwise the car ran fine.
The only way to tell was to do a leak down test.
The only way to tell was to do a leak down test.
I have been through this awhile ago and it drove me crazy, changed everything as you did @Msport335. i got really frustrated and came up with a solution, yes it's not the perfect solution but it helped and i finished tuning the car and dyno'd 710WHP on 27 PSI and 652TQ.
I added a spacer between the knock sensors and the block and desensitized the knock sensors from MHD. BUT, i aded up a knock detection device (or whatever it's called) so i can hear knock next to bank 1 knock sensor and started gradually adding boost, started from WG pressure until i reached 27 PSI, engine didn't knock and everything went smooth. Again, i know it's the proper way to do it but i had too, now i'm enjoying the car and racing it almost twice a week and this engine is still holding all the beating and asking for more lol.
Of course i keep checking and doing maintenance and running a look on everything just to be cautious.
I added a spacer between the knock sensors and the block and desensitized the knock sensors from MHD. BUT, i aded up a knock detection device (or whatever it's called) so i can hear knock next to bank 1 knock sensor and started gradually adding boost, started from WG pressure until i reached 27 PSI, engine didn't knock and everything went smooth. Again, i know it's the proper way to do it but i had too, now i'm enjoying the car and racing it almost twice a week and this engine is still holding all the beating and asking for more lol.
Of course i keep checking and doing maintenance and running a look on everything just to be cautious.
That is not how it works and you know it. You can't just say let's add on 25% if it is a dynojet or any other brand. There is no % that is accurate between dynos be it a mustang, dynodynamics, etc. If you made 400 kW measured at the wheels then you multiply by 1.34 as said above. That would give you your HP that would be measured at the wheels on that dyno which is 535whp. One kilowatt of power equals ~1.34 horsepower.
There is a reason why all the records that matter have to be done on a dynojet. https://www.spoolstreet.com/threads/700-hp-club-n54-dynojet-only.4608/ They are the most consistent and repeatable in various parts of the world and allows for actual comparisons to be done correctly. None of this add 25% bullshit or any other percentage. That is literally ricer math.
Last edited:
yes you multiply 1 kw by 1.34 to get hp then you add 25% for dynojet it's been well documented across many platforms.
Dynojet is a very happy reading dyno.
One of the tafe schools has one in Australia and they confirmed it dynoing an evo but like all the doubting Thomas's you have to see it to believe it.
The only consistent thing about dyno jet it will constantly give you extremely happy bloated results
On shootout mode using dyno dynamics the difference becomes smaller like 10 to 12 %
They don't call the dyno dynamics dyno the heart breaker dyno for nothing.
Dynojet is a very happy reading dyno.
One of the tafe schools has one in Australia and they confirmed it dynoing an evo but like all the doubting Thomas's you have to see it to believe it.
The only consistent thing about dyno jet it will constantly give you extremely happy bloated results
On shootout mode using dyno dynamics the difference becomes smaller like 10 to 12 %
They don't call the dyno dynamics dyno the heart breaker dyno for nothing.
Last edited:
Any dyno will give you a good base line for your car and in the end of the day you should always use the
same one to see the difference in the car setup or tuning changes as its only a tool that gives you a number.
A true indicator of power is your mph at the drag strip that's why I was there often when tuning as that's the
only real way to tell if the changes you done made any difference.
same one to see the difference in the car setup or tuning changes as its only a tool that gives you a number.
A true indicator of power is your mph at the drag strip that's why I was there often when tuning as that's the
only real way to tell if the changes you done made any difference.
leak down test wont but a compression test will as the comp will be down
A leak down test will show bent valves, cracked rings or ringlands or any defects in the combustion chamber like a cracked bore and such.
Sometimes the damage can be so small and only a teardown will reveal whats going on.
So if the tuning hasn't changed there is something mechanical going on and you have to keep looking to find it or it could be just the fuel supplier.
Well that's a good sign i guess...compression test results were
1, 180
2, 180
3, 172
4, 178
5, 180
6, 180
Not quite whilst they are close cylinder 3 is not happy for some reason, mine where closer with a cracked ringland.
You need to do a leak down test now.
You need to do a leak down test now.
Get a leak down test done to rule things out and go from there, you been chasing this for months so why haven't you done this.
There is no magic cure you have to rule out things one by one.
There is no magic cure you have to rule out things one by one.
Tuner turned the tune way down and way less timing advance as well. Pulled a few logs and still get pretty bad correction.
Noticing that I'm having to top up oil and valve cover is a bit oily on the outside but don't notice any cracks....maybe VCG?
would a leaky VCG or cracked valve cover cause timing correction? don't notice any oil on plug threads or electrode.
Noticing that I'm having to top up oil and valve cover is a bit oily on the outside but don't notice any cracks....maybe VCG?
would a leaky VCG or cracked valve cover cause timing correction? don't notice any oil on plug threads or electrode.
If your sucking oil into the intake that would not foul your plugs but will cause major corrections
