Major timing corrections, super knock & misfires

[Msport335]

Put in a brand new OEM HPFP and ran some logs...same crap... major correction in all cylinders running e40/meth.
Also noticed my ER charge pipe bent at the throttle body and is about to break off. The new HPFP is dipping even lower than the one it replaced during spool. WTF is going on?

datazap.me | msport335 | E50 / meth v5.1

datazap.me

 

[Msport335]

Having engine mounts checked tomorrow... could possibly be the cause of all the timing corrections. Most definitely seems to be the cause of the broken aluminum charge pipe

 

[Msport335]

couple updates on the car and things i've replaced still trying to decipher what's causing all the timing correction on high power maps...

New oem HPFP & engine mounts

I thought the mounts were completely gone as my ER charge pipe snapped off at the throttle body c clip so i figured there was more engine movement then there should be. Car definitely feels tighter and planted with the new mounts but I don't think it was the underlying issue to timing corrections on the ethanol or meth maps.

Below are a couple logs of the 94 pump gas map with the new HPFP .....car seems to be happier on the Pump only map in terms of corrections but this brand new HPFP doesn't give me as much psi in comparison to the one it replaced ....any idea why this would be? old one never dipped below 2000psi ....new one dips as low as 1300psi during the 3-4 shift


https://datazap.me/u/msport335/94-octane-v8x1-stock-knock-tables-1?log=0&data=3-21-22- old logs with old HPFP

https://datazap.me/u/msport335/94-pump-v8x1?log=0&data=3-21-22. - todays logs with NEW HPFP

 

[nahor]

Maybe try resetting all the fueling related adaptations, if you haven't already? Can't hurt, at the very least

 

[Msport335]

I did reset high pressure via mhd but maybe ill try with inpa instead

 

[typedRew]

just because its new doesnt mean its better. go back to the old one and send that one back to fcp and get a replacement to keep as a spare. old one worked just fine

How new are your engine grounds?

 

[Msport335]

just because its new doesnt mean its better. go back to the old one and send that one back to fcp and get a replacement to keep as a spare. old one worked just fine

How new are your engine grounds?

Engine grounds are all good... crimped and tightened as they should be. Those major timing corrections only seem to happen on high powered maps under load in 3rd/4th gear . Now leaning towards it being something in the auto trans which doesn't like all the added tq from those maps ..... i really don't know anymore.

 

[Mzfhartge]

Who is your tuner? Did you check the knock sensors, someone else had similar issue and it was his sensor swapped.

 

[Msport335]

Who is your tuner? Did you check the knock sensors, someone else had similar issue and it was his sensor swapped.

What do you mean by swapped?

 

[Msport335]

another log .....this time 94 pump gas with Meth. Help me understand why these corrections are happening ?? Can there be something in the auto trans causing this? ran the same tune 2 years ago without issues.

https://datazap.me/u/msport335/94met...-6-7-8-9-10-22

 

[Jeffman]

No codes?
Since your AFRs, timing, boost, torque Lim active all look good, it would seem more likely to me to be an electrical issue - somewhere between your spark plugs, ignition coils, and ground...
1) Unplug all of your coils and carefully inspect - I once had a faulty PR coil connector that caused misfires and massive timing corrections.
2) Remove all your plugs, inspect and gap to 0.20 mil.
3) Clean the head where the plugs are seated. Lint free paper towel wrapped around a screw driver head soaked in WD40 or similar worked for me.
3) Reinstall plugs with dielectric grease on the ceramic insulators. Torque properly. Wait. Torque again! I also had loose spark plugs (Step one colder NGKs with aluminum rings were torqued, but loosened on their own.) Maybe replace with two step colder NGKs which have the copper rings and deform better to the head when torqued.

 

[Msport335]

no codes..just the usual 2aaf.
plugs are brand new 2 step colder ngk's gapped to .018 and were carefully inspected and torqued numerous times.
coils are brand new eldors...no issues with any pins of wires....grounds are all checked. even tried a different set of coils and same outcome.
The car is making power and engine runs smooth...no knocking...oil is clean, done 3 changes in the past 1500kms....ran 5.9sec 100-200 with all these corrections.

I honestly don't know where to look next

 

[fmorelli]

Clean the head where the plugs are seated. Lint free paper towel wrapped around a screw driver head soaked in WD40 or similar worked for me.

Call me paranoid but I think everyone should be inspecting the spark plug shafts and cleaning them thoroughly on any plug change. I would not run crush-once aluminum washer spark plugs either, if they come out and need to go back in - the crush washer is used up. One of the reason I went to the 2 step colder plug (NGK 97506) that hard the copper washer. Note the often suggested one-step colder NGK 95770 has the aluminum crush washer.

If I could offer an alternative cleaning approach to @Jeffman's. I tear paper towels into approx 2" x 2" pieces. Soak with brake cleaner. Then use a grab tool - bunch the center of the paper towel and clasp. If you don't own that General grab tool, you will thank me when you've spent the mere $10 and used it the first time. Built-in LED light too. Invaluable. Anyway clean the land area first (where the washer sits) thoroughly. Throw away scrap pieces of paper as they get dirty. When the land is clean, now run a fresh piece of wetted paper into the threads and gently turn to clean the threads. You can run the paper into the chamber and twist your way back out. If the paper falls in, not end of the world - will just burn up and exit the exhaust. Across six cylinders you'll spend 20 minutes cleaning. Time well spent in my opinion.

This ensures that when you torque the spark plug you actually are correctly torqued (with debris you are not) which will prevent plugs backing out or sealing issues. Second with a correct crush washer (not reused aluminum one-use) you will also have proper sealing and torque.

Filippo

 

[Mzfhartge]

What do you mean by swapped?

Here is the thread

Built engine high RPM hesitatiom

Just recently completed breaking in my engine and started the tuning process. Having a weird issue at high rpm, bank 1 AFR goes lean 20, car hesitates for a second and continues. I was thinking hpfp going bad, fuel pressure deeps for a second and recovers doesn't affect bank 2. I get no...

bmw.spoolstreet.com

 

[Msport335]

Knock sensors are in the correct locations. I can always try to replace them but I dont think that's the issue. Haven't got any codes since hpfp was replaced

 

[Mzfhartge]

Sorry if this was done before but did you check compression and leak down test on the motor yet?

 

[Msport335]

Haven't done compression or leakdown yet. If it was an issue with the motor wouldn't my pump gas only map suffer the same corrections ?

 

[Msport335]

bringing this one back.... car is out from storage again and currently on 94octane with meth tune. ...still getting bad corrections. ran a compression test and everything checked out okay...pretty close to 180 across the board.

100% meth , single 1000cc nozzle in CP.... new pump, nozzle cleaned and its flowing well (clear to see in the logs)
new coils, plugs. HPFP, injectors, motor mounts , walnut blast etc..

should I get a leak down next , replace knock sensors, or take a chance and throw a used 6AT and tq converter at it in hopes this will fix it?

im tired of chasing this and haven't enjoyed the car in a long time since I haven't been able to turn it up.
its good on pump gas map (minor corrections) but anything with meth or ethanol I get major corrections

datazap.me | msport335 | Log 1616540646

datazap.me

 

[SlowE93]

bringing this one back.... car is out from storage again and currently on 94octane with meth tune. ...still getting bad corrections. ran a compression test and everything checked out okay...pretty close to 180 across the board.

100% meth , single 1000cc nozzle in CP.... new pump, nozzle cleaned and its flowing well (clear to see in the logs)
new coils, plugs. HPFP, injectors, motor mounts , walnut blast etc..

should I get a leak down next , replace knock sensors, or take a chance and throw a used 6AT and tq converter at it in hopes this will fix it?

im tired of chasing this and haven't enjoyed the car in a long time since I haven't been able to turn it up.
its good on pump gas map (minor corrections) but anything with meth or ethanol I get major corrections

datazap.me | msport335 | Log 1616540646

datazap.me

I would
1. Do leak down
2. Knock sensors
3. Trans

 

[Slowagon54]

Do you have the corrections on high or low/mid rpm's? Try to use two smaller nozzles instead of one big nozzle. Also try to add some water to the meth mix to cool down the ignition.

EDIT: Ok, did not see the log attached. Try to add some water to the meth to cool down the chambers