Bolt is in, used a washer and locking washer and it fit perfect.
My torque wrench didn’t fit in the space so I took ground down the end of my wrench to be able to slide on the end of the bolt and it worked perfect.
Has anyone installed the Vargas shotgun yet?
- Thread starter AntoanS4
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Bolt is in, used a washer and locking washer and it fit perfect.
My torque wrench didn’t fit in the space so I took ground down the end of my wrench to be able to slide on the end of the bolt and it worked perfect.
Where did you grind at? Was the crows foot too wide?
@Tony@VargasTurboTech what is the correct length of the bolts so I may check? Would rather order the correct length because I'm OCD.
@Tony@VargasTurboTech what is the correct length of the bolts so I may check? Would rather order the correct length because I'm OCD.
You see the little nub at the end that turns in, I ground it to be flat so it would clear, you could probably do it without doing this but that saved me so much time. The oem bolts come with washers on them so adding the washers not rigging it at all. Measure yours but I thinking it was a hair under 4 mm, which I made up with a flat washer and locking washer. As I was moving the power steering line I loosened it in the bottom so looks like I need to do a power steering fluid flush now, but that’s not a bad thing since it’s something I should’ve done a long time ago.
A second person definitely makes life easier, specially tightening up the hpfp to the bracket and lining up the pump. I accidentally lost one of the hpfp bolts which turns out to be m6-1.0x25mm with an m6 washer, sourced one from Home Depot since it vanished into thin air. I would install the hpfp to the mount before setting the belt, so you can move it from the pulley until it matches the opening, It was a lot of trial and error until I got it to match up. Props to VTT though, it’s crazy how perfectly they use up the available space in such tight quarters.
The belt arrangement kind of worries me... How much to to does it take to spin the hpfp? Wondering if it slips a lot at high tomorrow with that little contact.
Yeah. I changed the hpfp myself I know it spins easily when the fuel system is not pressurized. The question how it turns when the engine is running...
Belt slippage is, of course, one of the first things we tested for 3+ years ago when we developed this kit. We marked the pulley to the belt and spun the snot out of them in testing. Never saw a single instance of belt slippage. That picture is a bad angle and is a bit of an optical illusion the belt is actually on the pulley with a good amount of wrap. Zero issues with belt slippage.
About a year, and a half ago for our race car, we removed the AC and did something a little cooler, but 99% of people will not want to remove AC... This will allow us to run 3 pumps if we ever needed to, and also spins both pumps at the same speed meaning more flow. It's much more complicated, and a lot of stuff has to be moved around. For custom race car applications, kinda cool though.
Now THAT is advancing the platform. Need to figure out that injector problem
Just wrapped everything up, clocking the lower power steering bolt added the extra clearance I needed to clear the hpfp. I have the relocated inlets and reran the heater hose to better clear everything. I still have some things left to wrap up, but as far as the shotgun is concerned install was a success. My laptop doesn’t have a cd drive so I just used whatever driver it auto loaded and the R4 software was giving some weird error about wrong comport. If you’re in my same scenario go to https://ugreen.com/drivers/list-USB_To_RS232_Driver-en.html and get the appropriate driver and that fixed my communication issue.
I kept seeing the blower recall pictures all over my Facebook feed, so I decided to check and sure enough it was melting on me. I’ll be damned if I just did all this work just to watch it burn down, so I’m getting a rental from them. Check yours, make sure you’re good, be safe guys.
I kept seeing the blower recall pictures all over my Facebook feed, so I decided to check and sure enough it was melting on me. I’ll be damned if I just did all this work just to watch it burn down, so I’m getting a rental from them. Check yours, make sure you’re good, be safe guys.
Mine burned up half the inner panel foam about 3+ years ago. Lucky I was in the car, smelled an electric fire and yanked that panel off quickly
My experience so far, before installing the shotgun I looked over all of the parts and the write up to get an idea of what it entails. One thing I quickly noticed was the size of the hose fitting meant for the coolant hose that goes to the heat exchanger (Auto guys only). Just looking at it I could tell it was too small so the wrong fitting was installed by vtt by mistake. After talking with 2 other auto guys it was the same case so If you're auto and ordered a shotgun kit please check this fitting and make sure it's the right size. The fitting I recieved was 1/2 inch and you need a 3/4 T fitting. After getting the fitting I went ahead with the install by removing the plastic coolant tube as instructed and after getting the coolant hose for the heat exchanger off I noticed I was right. Not a big deal and a very simple fix and mistake just wanted to send a heads up.
After getting the pump mounted and the fuel and coolant lines done so basically the "last" step was getting the belt on. I was under the impression that the kit would come would a slightly longer belt to accommodate for the extra pulley... I saw its noted that the stock belt included will work. While I see that yes it can work, I think it should include a longer belt that would be a better fit so you don't have to max out the tensioner in order to get the belt on. I was very close to having it on when I heard something snap, thought it was my breaker bar ended up being the tensioner itself if that's shows you how much tq is needed to get this belt on. New tensioner ordered and I'll be on the hunt for a longer beltand pn# for anyone else that would want to use it.
Other than those 2 issues the bracket and pump is a great fit in that tight space as others have noted. The hoses and wires included were all cut to perfect length. Plan to have a review after its all sorted out and see what the single shotgun maxes out at.
After getting the pump mounted and the fuel and coolant lines done so basically the "last" step was getting the belt on. I was under the impression that the kit would come would a slightly longer belt to accommodate for the extra pulley... I saw its noted that the stock belt included will work. While I see that yes it can work, I think it should include a longer belt that would be a better fit so you don't have to max out the tensioner in order to get the belt on. I was very close to having it on when I heard something snap, thought it was my breaker bar ended up being the tensioner itself if that's shows you how much tq is needed to get this belt on. New tensioner ordered and I'll be on the hunt for a longer beltand pn# for anyone else that would want to use it.
Other than those 2 issues the bracket and pump is a great fit in that tight space as others have noted. The hoses and wires included were all cut to perfect length. Plan to have a review after its all sorted out and see what the single shotgun maxes out at.
We are sorry you had issues with the AT hose. We know this is a problem area so we have people cut the hose, instead of trying to remove the clamp.
Taken directly from the installation instructions.
"For automatic / DCT Transmissions you cut the stock pipe in the same locations, but coolant adaptor is slightly different Fig 22, you must cut the stock hose going from the original pipe to the transmission cooler, and install it on the “Tee” fitting in the coolant adaptor."
It says you must cut the hose, in my experience which is a LOT of these installs. Trying to get that factory pinch clamp off the hose without ruining the hose, is about 90/10 in chances of ruining the hose. For this reason, we made the Tee the size of the hose AFTER it necks down so you cut it off after the bung without removing the clamp. This means no time wasted trying to remove an impossible clamp. The hose necks down dractically at that point, and fits the fitting provided. If you have to go back to stock later on, you have to replade the plastic pipe, so you would just need to get a new hose as well. Besides that, install looks solid, nice work! Those tensioners are known to break, I hate those things!
Taken directly from the installation instructions.
"For automatic / DCT Transmissions you cut the stock pipe in the same locations, but coolant adaptor is slightly different Fig 22, you must cut the stock hose going from the original pipe to the transmission cooler, and install it on the “Tee” fitting in the coolant adaptor."
It says you must cut the hose, in my experience which is a LOT of these installs. Trying to get that factory pinch clamp off the hose without ruining the hose, is about 90/10 in chances of ruining the hose. For this reason, we made the Tee the size of the hose AFTER it necks down so you cut it off after the bung without removing the clamp. This means no time wasted trying to remove an impossible clamp. The hose necks down dractically at that point, and fits the fitting provided. If you have to go back to stock later on, you have to replade the plastic pipe, so you would just need to get a new hose as well. Besides that, install looks solid, nice work! Those tensioners are known to break, I hate those things!
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Now that makes sense with what you're saying about the coolant hose, I don't think me and Chris were on the same page or I wasn't understanding either way it worked. Would you happen to know the stock belt length? I see you had to use a longer belt for the triple pump did you get measurements of the stock belt before doing so.
hi
i have that double barrel installed and it fit all most like a glow to it`s place.
at first, i was sure than it cant fit on it`S place but there it is.
there was few minor issues with my kit, first one weld was to be little grinded before fitment,
but that is fixed on newer kits.
i did much better water line routing than it was on that kit and i had my engine hanging
on a crane without engine mounts cause i dropped subframe and rack away to install turbos at the same (GC`s)
on install, just follow the instruction and don`t force anything, everything will fit without force.
Tony was very helpful on every aspect on my build and don`t hesitate to ask if there is anything odd .
ps. on these very tight engine bays, you need for sure a bunch of different wrenches and tools because everything
is very tight fit so be patient on install.
like i told on my build, for sure i have much better infrastructure to do builds than average guy so there can be
some problems on lack of tools or resourses on your build but patience and time will cure everything..
i have that double barrel installed and it fit all most like a glow to it`s place.
at first, i was sure than it cant fit on it`S place but there it is.
there was few minor issues with my kit, first one weld was to be little grinded before fitment,
but that is fixed on newer kits.
i did much better water line routing than it was on that kit and i had my engine hanging
on a crane without engine mounts cause i dropped subframe and rack away to install turbos at the same (GC`s)
on install, just follow the instruction and don`t force anything, everything will fit without force.
Tony was very helpful on every aspect on my build and don`t hesitate to ask if there is anything odd .
ps. on these very tight engine bays, you need for sure a bunch of different wrenches and tools because everything
is very tight fit so be patient on install.
like i told on my build, for sure i have much better infrastructure to do builds than average guy so there can be
some problems on lack of tools or resourses on your build but patience and time will cure everything..
