EKP Active Cooling

[b4llistic]

EDIT: Thanks your finding and reading my post. Unfortunately, Spoolstreet is no longer a neutral platform where we can have honest discussions on subjects and products freely.
For this reason I have deleted all information I posted on the forums.

 

[ajm8127]

@kcorrie4

The primary heat rejection path is through the board and into the metal base plate of the EKP. I suggest changing the gap pad as outlined below. You may or may not want to add a heat sink.

DIY - DIY EKPM3 Active Cooling for LPFP

So I am still gronking the write-up and the spreadsheet. I made a variety of changes to the spreadsheet (which I hope are correct) and help clarify the compare/contrast on the data. So here are my questions: Why did BMW move to the EKPM3? Are there benefits to which we are unaware, in the...

bmw.spoolstreet.com

This applies to both EKPM2 and EKPM3. The EKPM2 has been found to waste less power as heat and would be the module I recommend with aftermarket pumps. The EKPM3 HW 04 appears to have a better layout from a heat rejection standpoint than the EKPM3 HW 06.

If you do choose active cooling, the holes for letting the air out should be towards the end of the module with the connector. That is where the heat generating components are. In the EKP those components are the inductor and the switch. Looking at the board, you will see large copper areas on the top of the board (light green).

See here. Notice the area near the connector has large copper "fills". This is for both heat and electrical current flow. The HW06 is more compressed and has a greater proportion of fill area, but the power generating components are still on the half of the board closest to the connector.

Place the holes in the plastic housing so air is directed over this area. Placing holes in the area of the housing with the step will not direct airflow over the hot components. The large square part with all of the pins opposite the connector is the microcontroller and it is a low power device. Don't waste air trying to cool it, it does not get hot.

The heat sink on the individual components can't hurt (unless they become detached) but I suspect if you force air into the module significant cooling will occur just from the board surface area, especially in the area that is solid copper. The heat will flow most efficiently from the components to the board they are mounted on. Heat flow through the components cases is a less efficient path.

Placing the fan on the opposite end from the connector with the holes in the half of the plastic housing nearest the connector is probably the optimal layout for active cooling.

 

[kcorrie4]

Literally a few posts above yours;

The question was in regard to how it's actually done. No one has any pictures. Are the wires spliced and taped down? I have no idea. That's why I'm asking. I'm likely just a dummy, but it seems the most vital and complex step in this whole process is skipped in every post I can find on this topic.

 

[KClemente]

The question was in regard to how it's actually done. No one has any pictures. Are the wires spliced and taped down? I have no idea. That's why I'm asking. I'm likely just a dummy, but it seems the most vital and complex step in this whole process is skipped in every post I can find on this topic.

Splicing the fan in is the easiest part. You’ll be running the fan off of the PWM 12v signal that leads to the fuel pump

There’s really nothing else to it. Just find which wires on your EKP lead to the fuel pump and splice them in the EKP itself. How you do it is ultimately up to you, some people run the fan wires outside the ekp via a connector and some people run the fan wires integrated inside the ekp.

 

[MoreBoost]

Are you guys getting overheating issues running a single 450 or would this only become problematic during heavy use like on track?

I could look at attaching a big heat sink. The carpeting around the EKP is alot like insulation after all.

 

[NoGuru]

KClemente is correcty, running it off the PWM fuel pump line.
I will try and grab some shots this afternoon.

 

[NoGuru]

There are two sets of plugs going into the EKP, splice into the smaller one or the one with two wires, and that is where you get your power and ground.

 

[derekgates]

There are two sets of plugs going into the EKP, splice into the smaller one or the one with two wires, and that is where you get your power and ground.
View attachment 43203View attachment 43203View attachment 43204View attachment 43205View attachment 43205View attachment 43203View attachment 43204

That looks great!

Are you using thermal adhesive for the heatsink? You stated it was thermal glue: https://bmw.spoolstreet.com/threads/diy-ekpm3-active-cooling-for-lpfp.6628/page-5#post-101887 :doh!:

 

[regbf99]

There are two sets of plugs going into the EKP, splice into the smaller one or the one with two wires, and that is where you get your power and ground.
View attachment 43204

I'm correct, that you just derive the thick brown and red/white cable (that goes to the LPFP) for your fan?
But is the fan than controlled by PWM?
And where would you install an fuse?

 

[fmorelli]

I'm correct, that you just derive the thick brown and red/white cable (that goes to the LPFP) for your fan?
But is the fan than controlled by PWM?
And where would you install an fuse?

From research that was done before, by an engineer in the business (there is a long thread here) the majority of heat is on the bottom of the component so blowing air and heat sinks on top not going to do too much as he surmised. Better to upgrade the heat transfer pad and have good heat transfer off the bottom aluminum chassis.

 

[regbf99]

Thank you very mutch for that info, so i have to look for that thread.
My intention was a fan that blows from the side (opposit of the connectors), so that the air flows over and under the PCB.

 

[regbf99]

I've had read many threads in the last time about this topic.
I think I will keep my EKPM2 and improve the connection to the aluminium baseplate.
My second EKPM is a EKPM3 HW04, witch should also be a good part, but i think i can avoid this expens.

Back to my first question, purely out of interest.
Does it really only need a two-pin fan? Which is connected to the cables going to the LPFP in order to operate the fan according to the load?

 

[regbf99]

Come on, nobody who can tell me something about that?

 

[SLOWESTN54]

It's all in this thread as posted above. As @fmorelli stated a fan isn't needed, just need better heat dissipation from the board of the epk to the case, and the case to where it mounts.

 

[regbf99]

Thank you guys!
I'll try to emprove my heat dissipation.

 

[boostd4]

Had my EKPM3 overheat on me last year (N55, PS2, E40, 450lph pump) so I did the heat sink upgrade and drilled holes in the cover for better airflow. It worked for a year and overheated again last week during very hot weather.

I bought a fan, but I also bought an EKPM2 based on the research from previous members.

It's obviously plug and play, but my question is can I use Protool to code it to my car, even though my car came with an EKPM3 from the factory? Anyone done this? I got it off ebay, it has the maroon connectors but can't be certain what exact model it came off of.

Thanks!

 

[fmorelli]

Had my EKPM3 overheat on me last year (N55, PS2, E40, 450lph pump) so I did the heat sink upgrade and drilled holes in the cover for better airflow. It worked for a year and overheated again last week during very hot weather.

I bought a fan, but I also bought an EKPM2 based on the research from previous members.

It's obviously plug and play, but my question is can I use Protool to code it to my car, even though my car came with an EKPM3 from the factory? Anyone done this? I got it off ebay, it has the maroon connectors but can't be certain what exact model it came off of.

Thanks!

EKPM is not coded to the DME. Just plug in and go. EKPM2 will work on an EKPM3-equipped car. Same protocol spec.

The EKPM modules are cheap on ebay. Probably good to have a spare in the box. That said, if you continue to have issues, consider upgrading the pink heat transfer pad sandwiched between the aluminum plate and the board, or improve heat dissipation on the aluminum plate. I've been told the the F15 50i aluminum plate is larger (you can't use the electronics, but your old electronics will bolt to the plate).

 

[9krpmrx8]

No details other than this but thought I'd share.

"The ET3 module has an improved output driver circuit. The driver output has 50% lower on resistance. This reduces the voltage drop across the device which in turn reduces the power dissipation (heat) of the module. The pulse width modulated output has a faster rise and fall time 0.3 microsecond vs 1.5 microseconds on the OEM. A lot of heat is generated during the switching time (rise and fall time) so this reduction helps considerably. Finally, the thermal resistance of the driver is lower to more efficiently shed the heat from the critical internal silicon die. This combination lowered the temperature of the module by about 60deg with a 20A load."

 

[fmorelli]

This is running the later BTN?

EKP PWM Controller - Infineon BTN7960B

This is the IC that deals with the brunt of amperage feeding the LPFP, and can overheat with LPFP's which can drawer greater amperage that the stock unit. Note thanks to @ajm8127: BTN8982 replaces BTN7960, is pin for pin compatible, has lower...

www.spoolstreet.com

 

[Torgus]

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Only $325 bucks and still can only run one pump.

Seams like modding your own EKP for small money and adding in a separate 525 with a relay and hobbs is the most cost efficient way to go.

BTW I have 2 EKPs for sale. @doublespaces's extra EKP3 and an EKP2 I just removed when I installed my BPM4. Small money if anyone wants them.