Anon1, i have the full winOLS with the export to XDF add on. I can export a damos to XDF so we have every single table. You guys would need to go through each table and figure out which ones you need/want.
DIY tuning
- Thread starter Sbrach
- Start date
If you mean this post , then yes. I have been working with Anjuna to help define the XDF definitions. Hes muuuuuuch stronger on the tuning side. I was able to define a number of tables by simply looking at the other XDFs and comparing the data in WinOLS. In the midst of this, I managed to find a source of a bunch of BMW Damos. We confirmed that the Damos are valid and are now sharing them with the community.
I just set up a torrent and a Seed Box. PM me for a free link.
I was able to sort out commanded WGDC as well as PID controlled boost management with the exception of the post shift boost spikes, so I gave up and reinstalled my neglected JB4.... then a week later I see his post and ripped the JB4 back out and found a few more suggestions to try. And then it started raining... 
The 1 series must be just light enough that 275s just won't hold like they do on a 335 in the dry and no way do they hold in the wet. It's been decently dry and warm, so I tried slicks... sudo slicks... RE71r that had worn faster than they heat cycled. They kind of worked.
Swapping to rain tires for the weather.
The 1 series must be just light enough that 275s just won't hold like they do on a 335 in the dry and no way do they hold in the wet. It's been decently dry and warm, so I tried slicks... sudo slicks... RE71r that had worn faster than they heat cycled. They kind of worked. Swapping to rain tires for the weather.
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6800 shifts aren't so bad. It's the 5500 under load shifts that spike. PS2 PWG.
Edit : any gear not spinning tires. Generally 3rd and up.
Edit Edit: N55 - dialed in a compressor map with PID and adder all zeroed out so that it was pretty close to target at different load targets.
Edit Edit Edit: after more testing today, wgdc spikes on all WOT shifts, regardless of gear or rpm... > 4k is all I tested.
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I figured out how to control the upshift... combo of I-factor and other tables associated that I found through a S55 XDF and translated across to mine. Now, why does the target boost curve always have a step up? I suspect it's to slow boost as it closes in on target, but that's what D is for, right. If I loosen up D and/or crank up P or Base, I can overshoot and blend with the rest, but it's not consistent.
Example of blending... ignore anything else, still learning and practicing (hence the huge revision number)
If I tighten up PID it is more stable but does the step up that really annoys me. Yes, I'll adjust base (comp table) for the drop midway. More interested in how to either properly blend or force target to not step up. Or the third option of doing it right , whatever I should be doing.
Example of blending... ignore anything else, still learning and practicing (hence the huge revision number)
If I tighten up PID it is more stable but does the step up that really annoys me. Yes, I'll adjust base (comp table) for the drop midway. More interested in how to either properly blend or force target to not step up. Or the third option of doing it right , whatever I should be doing.
The boost curve has a step up due to the boost pressure normal / dynamic tables. They werent in the original XDF's or anything public. I had to define them.
I just ran across the thread here for these tables on the INA0S rom. I'll see if I can map them into mine and try playing with them.
I found a version of the tables the S55 XDF I had access to. Although I think they flipped the label (Dynamic is Eco and Eco is Dynamic). I put in the 1M values that I found in the other thread (N54 section) and it definitely changed the target curve. Now D seems too high... time to start partially over, but sure am glad that hump is gone!
Very cool. Do you think the boost after shift fix will work on commanded wgdc? Finished dialing in e50 with PI. Car is flying but I get the quick overboost after shift. Would be awesome if I could get rid of it.
Log: https://datazap.me/u/houtan/rev-6-high-race-pi-e50?log=0&data=3-15
Log: https://datazap.me/u/houtan/rev-6-high-race-pi-e50?log=0&data=3-15
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Very good question. I don't exactly know what fixed it. I'm pretty sure a more agressive I-factor along with correction floor and ceiling did it. I stole the settings from the S55 factory settings. Well, and then adjusted in some areas. I recall commanded uses I still, just not P and D since you are commanding the wgdc directly, so I would expect it to work.
I wasted 450 attempts trying to resolve the ramp up and post shift issues. With the tables below, I could have been happy 6 months, 27 tanks, set of rear tires and brake pads ago!
I still have clean up work to do, but at least now it feels like a step forward each time and not 3 steps back.
Lol. I, unfortunately, am very familiar with this story so I feel your pain brother!
I will look at my tables this week and see if anything is different. Thanks for the screenshots!
Sorry to say but it seems P is important in controlling the over boost on shift. I reset P and D factor tables to 0 to assess what I did to my compressor table and man, didn't realize it could go from 16psi to 22 psi so quickly on shift.
I also swapped from using 1.000 in the dynamic mode table to about a 1.040 across to give me some headroom with load ceiling. I suspect there is a better way to offset target and load, but I couldn't remember, so I did it this way. It gives me about 1 psi of room to overshoot and let's PID bring it back to target smoothly.
EDIT: after getting my base (compressor) table sorted I was able go back to factory P/D values. It holds well post-shift and I can set dynamice mode back to 1.000
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Is there a cold torque limit table? I have an odd issue where my torque log flattens/caps at 400 an then the engine kills all power and triggers a torque limiter #1 for any pedal input afterwards. I'm not watching #2 or #3, so don't know about them. 2048 is logged when using the accelerator pedal after it kills off power. It's not drivable... have to pull over and turn it off and on again to go. This only happens when oil temp is < 180F. I figured 9 psi low rpm was okay at 176 degrees F.
I got a few runs in against my friends camaro zl1 1le and noticed my timing target was off by about 2 degrees. Should be at 11 above 6500 but it stays at 8.5 to 9 degrees even though the cylinder doesn’t have any timing corrections.
The other thing I’m noticing is that if I go wot at mid to higher rpm, sometimes the timing in a couple of my cylinders goes to crap to the extent that I hit limp mode (log below as well). Doing a log at 3k is usually perfect. My coil packs are also original with 55,000 miles. I have a new set but want to see if it’s a tuning thing first.
Anyone have any ideas on either issue?
Timing below target:
Poor timing going to limp mode: https://www.spoolstreet.com/graphs/...-zl1-1le-misfire.1150/?series=2,14&zoom=-1,72
Just tried the embedded log feature, very cool! but it only allows one log per post so the second one is a link.
The other thing I’m noticing is that if I go wot at mid to higher rpm, sometimes the timing in a couple of my cylinders goes to crap to the extent that I hit limp mode (log below as well). Doing a log at 3k is usually perfect. My coil packs are also original with 55,000 miles. I have a new set but want to see if it’s a tuning thing first.
Anyone have any ideas on either issue?
Timing below target:
Poor timing going to limp mode: https://www.spoolstreet.com/graphs/...-zl1-1le-misfire.1150/?series=2,14&zoom=-1,72
Just tried the embedded log feature, very cool! but it only allows one log per post so the second one is a link.
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Yeah, I messed up a table, but don't remember the exact cause. That was like 347 revisions ago.
Mine always seems to creep up over target. Did you compare across all timing tables?
lol. That happens to me all the time.
Honestly, I haven't touch the timing tables in a long time but the one that I change is timing main 1 I believe. All of the other timing tables I don't touch and my timing has always been right on target this way when traction control is fully disabled. Do you change all of them?
Honestly, I haven't touch the timing tables in a long time but the one that I change is timing main 1 I believe. All of the other timing tables I don't touch and my timing has always been right on target this way when traction control is fully disabled. Do you change all of them?
