Best N54 Billet Aluminum Oil Filter Housing Cap?

[martymil]

I personally never seen a plastic cap fail and they are cheap as posted earlier, getting an ecs one is just a waste of money as I can have 5 oem ones for the same price and it will outlast the motor.

I personally run the cts one but wouldn't hesitate to get a bms one if I knew it was available as their products have proven themselves to be of solid quality made by enthusiasts for the enthusiasts.

I think to much focus is being put on a possible problem that has never occurred except maybe from age.

If the problem did occur and the valve failed it wouldn't matter what material the cap was made of because they all share the same problem and common part.

Buy a new plastic cap and valve and pick any of the metal ones on offer and problem solved, change the valve every 30k miles.

 

[N54rsenal]

No support for the oil bypass valve retaining circle clip in center.

The locking tabs on the BMS makes a satisfying click and oil filter bird cage feels tight. No loosey goosey here!

Looks really good and when tightened the BMS logo faces the radiator perfectly with MADE IN USA for me at least.

Im debating on using mine unless I buy a replacement OFHC and swap the cage.

 

[martymil]

So you have been using your bms one, did the cage fail ?

Most highly unlikely, if your worried buy a new cage/valve.

Looks superior to the crappy plastic one.

 

[N54rsenal]

So you have been using your bms one, did the cage fail ?

Most highly unlikely, if your worried buy a new cage/valve.

Looks superior to the crappy plastic one.

Only 200ish miles on it but im back to stock. I do oil changes every 5k car has 80k on stock plastic OFHC #11427525334.
Besides that its superior in every other way.

Also why its important to have the cage because the small oring seals the drain and without that you lose oil pressure.
See the comments

 

[typedRew]

Only 200ish miles on it but im back to stock. I do oil changes every 5k car has 80k on stock plastic OFHC #11427525334.
Besides that its superior in every other way.

Also why its important to have the cage because the small oring seals the drain and without that you loose oil pressure.
See the comments

I replaced mine with the new oem cap/cage last night.

I normally get a light rattle/piston slap sound when i start it for a brief second on cold mornings. Today there was nothing.

Fuck. I really hope I caught this in time. Going to do a complete oil change this weekend even though I just did one 1.5k ago.

 

[matreyia]

I replaced mine with the new oem cap/cage last night.

I normally get a light rattle/piston slap sound when i start it for a brief second on cold mornings. Today there was nothing.

Fuck. I really hope I caught this in time. Going to do a complete oil change this weekend even though I just did one 1.5k ago.

I used the CTS for three oil changes and after finally verifying that it did indeed was a factor that increased metal shavings I went back to stock plastic cap with the three prongs and center nub and proper locking for the center cage. Since doing that, I am back down to normal (barely noticeable) metal shavings. When I say noticeable, with the CTS...I mean like globs of metallic gooey stuff clinging to the magnetic drain plug. With the stock plastic cap, there is only a barely noticeable super thin film of metallic particles.

I posted these findings and some folks just went apeshit and wanted to argue about it. All I can say is, I did my part in showing the effects of this product as well as the metal stainless steel filter... if they want to keep using that stuff, good luck to them. Mind you, every time I change oil I do a change, run for one tank of gas, then do a final change for normal 'flushing' effects to help keep the turbo lines free of coked oil. And every three oil change cycles, I use Liquimolly engine flush and change the oil twice. My engine is whisper quiet and ultra smooth.

 

[N54rsenal]

I posted these findings and some folks just went apeshit and wanted to argue about it. All I can say is, I did my part in showing the effects of this product as well as the metal stainless steel filter... if they want to keep using that stuff, good luck to them. Mind you, every time I change oil I do a change, run for one tank of gas, then do a final change for normal 'flushing' effects to help keep the turbo lines free of coked oil. And every three oil change cycles, I use Liquimolly engine flush and change the oil twice. My engine is whisper quiet and ultra smooth.

I still have doubt it was the filter you were running did anyone else have problems with it?
How many miles have you driven with the CTS OFHC and broken bypass valve retaining clip?

 

[matreyia]

I still have doubt it was the filter you were running did anyone else have problems with it?
How many miles have you driven with the CTS OFHC and broken bypass valve retaining clip?

I never drove my car with any broken clips from any part. I always inspect before reinstalling and if it is broke, I replace it with a brand new part. So that's not the issue. The issue is the CTS unit is missing some mechanical parts that interface with the center plastic cage which is associated with oil flow. The video shows you exactly which parts are missing.

 

[GreyNBlueE92]

Keep in mind paper will almost always filter better than metal... The stainless filter was never tested in the stock housing...

 

[N54rsenal]

I never drove my car with any broken clips from any part. I always inspect before reinstalling and if it is broke, I replace it with a brand new part. So that's not the issue. The issue is the CTS unit is missing some mechanical parts that interface with the center plastic cage which is associated with oil flow. The video shows you exactly which parts are missing.

Looks like you pulled the oil filter cage out of the CTS it broke then you thought about using the stock one but it was better just to buy a replacement?

Keep in mind paper will almost always filter better than metal... The stainless filter was never tested in the stock housing...

I agree with that also, yea it never was.

 

[matreyia]

Looks like you pulled the oil filter cage out of the CTS it broke then you thought about using the stock one but it was better just to buy a replacement?



I agree with that also, yea it never was.

Yep. Installing it from the original cap was intact, only broke when removing from CTS.

 

[fmorelli]

I'm not far off of an oil Motul change with Hengst filter. I'll need to relook at what's up with my CTS installation. Kind of interesting this thread has seen so much commentary.

Filippo

 

[matreyia]

I'm not far off of an oil Motul change with Hengst filter. I'll need to relook at what's up with my CTS installation. Kind of interesting this thread has seen so much commentary.

Filippo

If you have a magnetic drain, be sure to note if there is any gooey metal slime sticking to it.

 

[typedRew]

I used the CTS for three oil changes and after finally verifying that it did indeed was a factor that increased metal shavings I went back to stock plastic cap with the three prongs and center nub and proper locking for the center cage. Since doing that, I am back down to normal (barely noticeable) metal shavings. When I say noticeable, with the CTS...I mean like globs of metallic gooey stuff clinging to the magnetic drain plug. With the stock plastic cap, there is only a barely noticeable super thin film of metallic particles.

I posted these findings and some folks just went apeshit and wanted to argue about it. All I can say is, I did my part in showing the effects of this product as well as the metal stainless steel filter... if they want to keep using that stuff, good luck to them. Mind you, every time I change oil I do a change, run for one tank of gas, then do a final change for normal 'flushing' effects to help keep the turbo lines free of coked oil. And every three oil change cycles, I use Liquimolly engine flush and change the oil twice. My engine is whisper quiet and ultra smooth.

I immediately feel inadequate simply doing my oil changes every 3k no matter what.

 

[fmorelli]

I have not done an engine flush, simply because at 3k intervals with a high end full synthetic the motor is going to be clean, in my experience. I've seen lots of motors come apart - well-maintained full synthetic oil motors are incredibly clean inside, so for me I have no concern. Anyone who goes the extra mile (or hundred) kudos to you. I run lubricity additives in both my diesel German cars because of the potential fuel pump issues. Some people think that's ridiculous ... lol ... I'll hang crystals on the rear view mirrors of the diesels if anyone can convince me that helps ...

Filippo

 

[Jeffman]

Anybody try to pop the plastic cage back into the stock oil filter cap? Or is it irreversibly stressed and I should just plan to get a new OEM oil cap for $18?

 

[matreyia]

Anybody try to pop the plastic cage back into the stock oil filter cap? Or is it irreversibly stressed and I should just plan to get a new OEM oil cap for $18?

It was made to be removable and serviceable... but after many cycles, it may just crack and you have to get a new unit. The crackly part is in the video.

 

[matreyia]

I have not done an engine flush, simply because at 3k intervals with a high end full synthetic the motor is going to be clean, in my experience. I've seen lots of motors come apart - well-maintained full synthetic oil motors are incredibly clean inside, so for me I have no concern. Anyone who goes the extra mile (or hundred) kudos to you. I run lubricity additives in both my diesel German cars because of the potential fuel pump issues. Some people think that's ridiculous ... lol ... I'll hang crystals on the rear view mirrors of the diesels if anyone can convince me that helps ...

Filippo

If you did a flush, proper flush and then changed the oil, drove it for a tank of gas, then changed the oil again, you would definitely hear and feel a difference in your engine smoothness and response. I did this completely by boredom one time and have kept doing it ever since after it surprised the hell out of me.

 

[N54rsenal]

For those who are running a BMS or CTS OFHC feel free to chime in on the condition of your Oil Bypass Valve being intact or busted apart and miles driven on it or if you swapped a new cage from the oem housing.

As for the turbo oil lines holding burnt oil I drive the car easy for the last 3-5minutes before shutting it off so it cools down.

 

[martymil]

Cts 15k miles no problem with valve