Addressing N5x oiling and spun rod bearings (Accusump installed)

[gmagnus7]

3.7gpm / 8an sounds somewhat similar to what I'm using. How many watts does it consume? I'm afraid you will experience the same problem I am, ie that it cant keep up, because it flows less than 20% of the engine. And it wont be picking up any oil unless you are braking.

If you do go for this, try to install the outlet at the front passenger side of the sump, as low as possible, and the inlet at the rear drivers side, inside the baffle.

I removed the oil pressure sensor on my car, and replaced it with an adjustable oil pressure switch, connected to a loud siren, mounted inside the cabin. So for future trackdays, I wont be logging or watching the exact oil pressure. Instead I will get an audible warning if oil pressure falls below 60psi or so, and otherwise live in happy ignorance.

Next week we will start replacing the rod bearings and look into installing a dip stick as well as enlarging the oil sump. It seems it can only be enlarged towards the gearbox, and I would happy if we can add a liter or so. In my logic, it should help to have extra volume behind the pickup, as the oil starvation mainly happens when turning after trail braking. No idea if Im right about this.

Yea that's where I was thinking of putting the connections based on your experience.The pump I'm looking at flows 3.7 gpm (not gph like I said before- that would be a terrible pump) @ 12V, 6A. The website lists options for -8 or -10 AN fittings for pump as well. Maybe I'll take a look and see if i can find one with a higher output.

Will likely connect the pump directly to the battery and will have it wired to a switch in the dash. Was planning on putting a LPFP, battery, and WMI cut-off switches anyway so no big deal adding one more. Is it necessary? No, but I like tinkering.

Edit:

Pretty positive this is the same pump I've been looking at. Skip to 6:50 mark to see the flow, no need to watch the whole thing. Seems like a decent amount of flow to be honest.

 

[doodlebro]

I'm noticing this in my N55 X3, probably doesn't help that I'm still on stock suspension. Effect is obviously more pronounced going downhill: https://datazap.me/u/doodlebro/coal-creek?log=1&data=9-10-12

The upgraded front brakes I have are likely exacerbating this.

I'm guessing I'll need an accusump. I just put a new (used, low miles) motor in so I'm not trying to blow another.

 

[9krpmrx8]

Yea that's where I was thinking of putting the connections based on your experience.The pump I'm looking at flows 3.7 gpm (not gph like I said before- that would be a terrible pump) @ 12V, 6A. The website lists options for -8 or -10 AN fittings for pump as well. Maybe I'll take a look and see if i can find one with a higher output.

Will likely connect the pump directly to the battery and will have it wired to a switch in the dash. Was planning on putting a LPFP, battery, and WMI cut-off switches anyway so no big deal adding one more. Is it necessary? No, but I like tinkering.

Edit:

Pretty positive this is the same pump I've been looking at. Skip to 6:50 mark to see the flow, no need to watch the whole thing. Seems like a decent amount of flow to be honest.

I would not trust these types of pumps, I have ran a few over the years, even expensive ones in a low mount turbo setup and had a couple of different failures.

 

[gmagnus7]

I would not trust these types of pumps, I have ran a few over the years, even expensive ones in a low mount turbo setup and had a couple of different failures.

You think even for ~10-20 hours per year it would be risky? Would only be on at the track.

 

[F87Source]

You think even for ~10-20 hours per year it would be risky? Would only be on at the track.

If you're just using it as a sump pump to move oil from the front of the pan to the back it shouldn't matter if it fails you just won't have the added oil recovery. If the pump was used in a more critical fashion like delivering oil to components then it would be a problem. But that's also why OEMS dont use electric oil pumps and prefer mechanical, as they're more reliable.

 

[rac]

can anyone help me the part number / type of female connector socket that attaches to the n55 oil pressure sensor.
I have these part numbers for the n55 sensor; 12617592532 / 51CP18-01. It looks like it might be a 3 pin bosch connector with inner guides. Can someone take a photo for me by any chance?

I want to replace my n54 oil pressure switch with an actual sensor. thanks.

 

[Asbjorn]

can anyone help me the part number / type of female connector socket that attaches to the n55 oil pressure sensor.
I have these part numbers for the n55 sensor; 12617592532 / 51CP18-01. It looks like it might be a 3 pin bosch connector with inner guides. Can someone take a photo for me by any chance?

I want to replace my n54 oil pressure switch with an actual sensor. thanks.

This might be easier/better, in case you didn't know it existed:

VTT Billet BMW Oil Pressure adapter

VTT is proud to offer a TRUELY universal Oil pressure adapter kit for any BMW using the factory M12 dummy oil sensor. Our kit comes as a complete kit, or in as many pieces you need to set it up on your project. We know not everyone has the same needs, so we designed the

vargasturbo.com

 

[rac]

I've got a distribution block already but I'd rather use a direct mount oem part if i can.

 

[Asbjorn]

So we found that it wasn't feasible to enlarge the oil sump after all. So we just added an oil dip stick and replaced the rod bearings. Since the oil pressure problem is mainly there when trail braking in to left hand hairpins, we also decided to cut the baffle wall. Acceleration shouldt be a problem anyhow, and now it is ever so slightly more similar to the S55 setup.

This part was removed

The electronic oil pump will continue to return oil from the front of the pan to the pickup under breaking.

Here are the old rod bearings. Put 150.000km on these. No idea where the metal in the oil filter came from. We have changed filter twice since then and haven't seen any new metal in there...

Btw it was really cool that we could use the oil pressure warning signal to crank the engine after installing the new rod bearings. After 6-7 cranks with coils disconnected, the oil pressure warning stopped, and we knew oil pressure was sufficient. It also seems oil pressure is ever so slightly higher now after the rod bearing and oil change. Btw the gaps where around 0.04mm, just used oem type.

 

[derekgates]

So we found that it wasn't feasible to enlarge the oil sump after all. So we just added an oil dip stick and replaced the rod bearings. Since the oil pressure problem is mainly there when trail braking in to left hand hairpins, we also decided to cut the baffle wall. Acceleration shouldt be a problem anyhow, and now it is ever so slightly more similar to the S55 setup.

This part was removed

View attachment 37575

The electronic oil pump will continue to return oil from the front of the pan to the pickup under breaking.

Here are the old rod bearings. Put 150.000km on these. No idea where the metal in the oil filter came from. We have changed filter twice since then and haven't seen any new metal in there...

View attachment 37576

Btw it was really cool that we could use the oil pressure warning signal to crank the engine after installing the new rod bearings. After 6-7 cranks with coils disconnected, the oil pressure warning stopped, and we knew oil pressure was sufficient. It also seems oil pressure is ever so slightly higher now after the rod bearing and oil change. Btw the gaps where around 0.04mm, just used oem type.

Very interesting! I like the design choices on the baffle; it is something I am planning for my car when I drop pan for oil gasket...

I wonder if this will improve the hard braking lefts you are experiencing issues with!

 

[Asbjorn]

Very interesting! I like the design choices on the baffle; it is something I am planning for my car when I drop pan for oil gasket...

I wonder if this will improve the hard braking lefts you are experiencing issues with!

Yeah so basically my baffle is now just a roof with no actual walls. This so that whatever oil is behind the pickup can run forward better during braking, while still limiting the escape in front of the pickup. It is my understanding this is similar to the S55 design, only difference being that the S55 has a stronger pump to move the oil from the front to the rear of the sump.

After taking a long look at the N54 setup, we concluded that the root cause of the problem is the angle of the engine. Due to this angle, the oil most likely returns more on the right side of the oil pan, making left turns an issue. It is the only way we can make sense of it. And because the pick up is at the rear, trail braking magnifies the problem.

No baffle will solve this, and the fact that my electric oil pump takes oil from the left front side of the pan isn't ideal either. But there is simply no space anywhere on the front right side, and the pump is probably too small no matter what.

From now on, I am simply to use the oil dip stick to make sure I am at exactly 7L engine oil before any track event. And then I will just try not to press the accelerator too hard if the warning siren we installed sounds (which indicates that oil pressure is getting close to idle oil pressure at 70C oil temp, ie 50psi or so).

 

[doodlebro]

I'm making a little bit of progress on my plans, but running into a situation:

On my car (an X3), the oil cooler lines route to the top of the oil cooler housing (OCH), not the bottom like most every other N55. This means I don't have those ready to go taps to the return side of the OCH, and I'm a little stumped on best way to solve. I could have my shop custom fab a new line from the cooler that incorporates the T/accusump, but I figure that will be more expensive than just finding an OCH & oil cooler with the top fittings to retrofit.

Also stumped on why BMW didn't just have the same style for all chassis, I can't figure out why they'd need them to come on top for the X3. I probably haven't thought through this well cause I've been reading about accumulator tech all day.

 

[9krpmrx8]

Any auto AC hose maker can address that and make you custom hoses pretty cheap. The AC shops have the tools do a similar crimp the way the factory does. I had a pin hole in one of mine and had them both remade. The local hydraulic hose shop I have used for years to make normal JIC or -AN hoses could not do these crimps.

 

[F87Source]

I keep looking at the diagrams and im not sure if things change for different N55's, but the m2's return side on the OFH is on the right.

RealOEM.com - Online BMW Parts Catalog

BMW parts 2' F87 M2 M2 Engine oil cooling/coolant pump, electr.

www.realoem.com

 

[doodlebro]

I keep looking at the diagrams and im not sure if things change for different N55's, but the m2's return side on the OFH is on the right.

RealOEM.com - Online BMW Parts Catalog

BMW parts 2' F87 M2 M2 Engine oil cooling/coolant pump, electr.

www.realoem.com

At least for the X3 it's labelled clearly: https://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/showparts?id=WX73-USA-05-2016-F25-BMW-X3_35iX&diagId=17_0584

Still not sold on the Accusump being my final solution, looking into other possibilities.

 

[F87Source]

At least for the X3 it's labelled clearly: https://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/showparts?id=WX73-USA-05-2016-F25-BMW-X3_35iX&diagId=17_0584

Still not sold on the Accusump being my final solution, looking into other possibilities.

The m2 diagram is the showing the same thing, just that there is a 3'rd oil line leaving the heat exchanger, but inessence they are exactly the same with the oil return on the right and oil outlet on the left of the OFH. So I am not sure why @Bnks334 routed it the way he did, maybe he can clear it up.

It is quite effective, but if you want an even better solution then look at retrofitting the m2's sump and secondary oil pump.

For me I am looking at the M4CS oil sump (because it is bigger and rated for 1.4 G instead of 1.2 G) along with an accusump to absolutely ensure there will be no oil starvation, especially when on slicks.

 

[doodlebro]

The m2 diagram is the showing the same thing, just that there is a 3'rd oil line leaving the heat exchanger, but inessence they are exactly the same with the oil return on the right and oil outlet on the left of the OFH. So I am not sure why @Bnks334 routed it the way he did, maybe he can clear it up.

On the M2 it's labeled inlet/outlet (which isn't hard to figure out by any means, but for me takes a few brain cycles). On the X3 they are labeled flow/return. Still not sure why the X3 has the connections on top. It looks like OP's 1er is also labelled the easy way. So the 1er and the M2 have the return on the right, but the X3 has it on the left? It's also possible the diagrams are red-herrings. I have seen those be very, very wrong in certain cases. I guess there's no reason why one way would be better than the other, it doesn't matter which side sends oil to the cooler from an OE perspective.

But you raise a valid point: It appears he has it plumbed so that the Accusump sends oil through the cooler first, then to the engine. I can't say that's bad, but it does go against what Accusump instructs. Maybe he was going off of a newer N55 diagram during install, or maybe flow/return mean the opposite of what we think.

Also, holy shit is the M2 diagram complicated. I'm guessing the external oil cooler couldn't get big enough, so they had to add the exchanger.

It is quite effective, but if you want an even better solution then look at retrofitting the m2's sump and secondary oil pump.

For me I am looking at the M4CS oil sump (because it is bigger and rated for 1.4 G instead of 1.2 G) along with an accusump to absolutely ensure there will be no oil starvation, especially when on slicks.

I don't think this will be possible, since the X3 has xDrive and all the drama that comes with that. Truth be told, the Accusump is pretty trick and inexpensive for what it accomplishes. I'll need to work some junkyard magic to get a DIY/xDrive compatible M2 sump going for a similar price.

 

[F87Source]

On the M2 it's labeled inlet/outlet (which isn't hard to figure out by any means, but for me takes a few brain cycles). On the X3 they are labeled flow/return. Still not sure why the X3 has the connections on top. It looks like OP's 1er is also labelled the easy way. So the 1er has the return on the right, but the M2 and X3 have it on the left. I guess this makes a bit of sense to me, the N55 from the 1er is at least 5 years older. It's also possible the diagrams are red-herrings. I have seen those be very, very wrong in certain cases.

But you raise a valid point: It appears he has it plumbed so that the Accusump sends oil through the cooler first, then to the engine. I can't say that's bad, but it does go against what Accusump instructs. Maybe he was going off of a newer N55 diagram during install.

Also, holy shit is the M2 diagram complicated. I'm guessing the external oil cooler couldn't get big enough, so they had to add the exchanger.



I don't think this will be possible, since the X3 has xDrive and all the drama that comes with that. Truth be told, the Accusump is pretty trick and inexpensive for what it accomplishes. I'll need to work some junkyard magic to get a DIY/xDrive compatible M2 sump going for a similar price.

No you are mistaken, for the m2 the return is on the right and the outlet is on the left, I also just doubled checked on images of my own car.

That's not what I am worried about, what I am worried about is the fact that I am going to be using a thermostat delete plate and thus must use a Tee fitting and also a check valve like accusump states. This means I must know the direction of oil flow or else it will result in blockage of oil flow.

Yeah the diagram is really complex, but I am used to seeing the setup now so it's not too bad.

I recommend an accusump or a moroso oil accumulator to achieve your goals if you cannot retrofit the m2 sump and pump.

 

[doodlebro]

No you are mistaken, for the m2 the return is on the right and the outlet is on the left, I also just doubled checked on images of my own car.

That's not what I am worried about, what I am worried about is the fact that I am going to be using a thermostat delete plate and thus must use a Tee fitting and also a check valve like accusump states. This means I must know the direction of oil flow or else it will result in blockage of oil flow.

Yeah the diagram is really complex, but I am used to seeing the setup now so it's not too bad.

I recommend an accusump or a moroso oil accumulator to achieve your goals if you cannot retrofit the m2 sump and pump.

I got a ninja edit in when I realized my mistake

You might just have to turn over the engine without ignition plugged in and see where oil squirts out if you want to be sure.

 

[F87Source]

I got a ninja edit in when I realized my mistake

You might just have to turn over the engine without ignition plugged in and see where oil squirts out if you want to be sure.

Lol

Check part numbers to see the difference between the OFH on the m2, 1er, and the x3.

I've got a few ideas how to ensure I know which direction oil flow is. The first being the usage of an infrared thermometer and the second is clear plastic hose. But that's far in the future for me.