VTT New Product Release Overview!

[Chris@VargasTurboTech]

@Chris@VargasTurboTech, aside from asking for the oil cap height from the bottom of the grip to the top, I might also suggest that you all consider having Tony "demo" the new products through an install (maybe on a motor stand?) ... VTT is now putting out parts that I would not assume a lot of people understand quite how they go together - particularly when we start talking PCV - a brief video showing the connections, et cetera ... probably lower the barrier to purchase for a bunch of folks. Just a thought. Also a PCV video would help with common configs (e.g. I already have a Burger OCC. Should I care? Do I add something else? What if my blood type is O positive? I'm a Libra can I use black fittings?)

Tony does a nice job of talking through the products ... and it's nice to see you all working hard and making fruits ;-)

Filippo

Ha! Thanks brother!

It's true that these parts require the customer be a little better informed than many basic bolt-ons where (like it or not) group-think tends to do well enough most of the time for the average guy. The problem is that there are literally dozens of iterations possible, so while I definitely appreciate that you'd watch a vid of Tony demo'ing/installing -it's probably not a great way to get the info out as we'd have a ton of vids to make, or the one vid would rival "Titanic" for both moving emotional scenes and film length.

Instead, let's start with a few simple diagrams to start the process of making this clear. If not completely sufficient for all desires, they are certainly broad enough in scope to be used as a good starting point for those who want more than these scenarios. Shall we? We shall.

-Chris

 

[Chris@VargasTurboTech]

How reliable is that turbosmart. Its a great bundle deal. Im tired of the pos hks design. Its blown off twice above 28 psi.

In our experience the Turbosmart valves are the most reliable option on the market.

The bundle is a great deal, it is a great price and doesn't skimp on the most important part.

 

[Rcboosted2007]

In our experience the turbosmarts are the most reliable option on the market.

Perfect thanks. Ill go that route

 

[Jake@MHD]

@Chris@VargasTurboTech I know in the images where you have the one check valve, that is to prevent boost from pressurizing the can.

However, wouldn't another check valve be needed in the opposite direction going to the other can (high side) to seal it off under vacuum? Otherwise you've introduced a large vacuum leak.

 

[Chris@VargasTurboTech]

@Chris@VargasTurboTech I know in the images where you have the one check valve, that is to prevent boost from pressurizing the can.

However, wouldn't another check valve be needed in the opposite direction going to the other can (high side) to seal it off under vacuum? Otherwise you've introduced a large vacuum leak.

On the stock system there is so much "cyclonic" stuff in the path that it really can't suck through too much. You can have too much vacuum -then you'll hear the engine whistling as it pulls air by the seals. That's not good at all.

These components together allow the right amount of vacuum to be maintained.

Do you have a particular setup/system you want a hand putting together?

Chris

 

[Jake@MHD]

On the stock system there is so much "cyclonic" stuff in the path that it really can't suck through too much. You can have too much vacuum -then you'll hear the engine whistling as it pulls air by the seals. That's not good at all.

These components together allow the right amount of vacuum to be maintained.

Do you have a particular setup/system you want a hand putting together?

Chris

Yea, I have two cans both VTA right now, but want to recirc one bc sometimes the fumes sitting at a light etc are annoying.

I would have thought it'd need a check valve to seal off the vta can under vacuum though, otherwise it's a vac leak no? It would be pulling ambient air through the vta can, into the valve cover.

 

[The Convert]

Yea, I have two cans both VTA right now, but want to recirc one bc sometimes the fumes sitting at a light etc are annoying.

I would have thought it'd need a check valve to seal off the vta can under vacuum though, otherwise it's a vac leak no? It would be pulling ambient air through the vta can, into the valve cover.

Reroute the low load side externally then back to the intake with a metering orifice, OCC, and one way valve. Route the high load side to a one way valve, OCC, then atmosphere.

Another option is to replace the metering orifice with a vacuum break set to a specific amount of vacuum.

 

[Jake@MHD]

Reroute the low load side externally then back to the intake with a metering orifice, OCC, and one way valve. Route the high load side to a one way valve, OCC, then atmosphere.

Another option is to replace the metering orifice with a vacuum break set to a specific amount of vacuum.

That was my plan. However I was questioning the diagrams above with no one way valve on the vta side

 

[The Convert]

That was my plan. However I was questioning the diagrams above with no one way valve on the vta side

you don't necessarily need one. It'll just keep you from pulling any outside air in when you pull vacuum from the low load side.

 

[doublespaces]

On the stock system there is so much "cyclonic" stuff in the path that it really can't suck through too much.

This is what I've been trying to suggest as well, but some people insist that if you delete the flapper, you MUST delete the entire PCV system otherwise it won't work, no matter how much additional restriction the cans create. This does have potential to create positive pressure when under boost, but there have been worse things.

Also, can your check valve come with AN fittings instead of the barbs?

 

[Boosted_135]

I was all for buying the oil cap filter, until i saw the amount charged for shipping to canada. Jesus. same for the check valve.

 

[Chris@VargasTurboTech]

Yea, I have two cans both VTA right now, but want to recirc one bc sometimes the fumes sitting at a light etc are annoying.

I would have thought it'd need a check valve to seal off the vta can under vacuum though, otherwise it's a vac leak no? It would be pulling ambient air through the vta can, into the valve cover.

It is a "leak" but it's not much of a leak. Controlled. With your components (no idea what you're using) if it's allowing too much air it's easy enough to add an orifice.

 

[Rcboosted2007]

I just seen the oil cap vent. I ordered one the same day. The fitment is solid/tight. No hood clearance issues. Material is beefy. The spring check is good not a cheap ass spring. Im very pleased simple and trick at the same time. Hella packing material also. Thanks VTT!

 

[Chris@VargasTurboTech]

Glad you love it!

 

[Jeffman]

Any logs before / after with the oil vent cap? I’d love to see some kind of real-world experimental data that it’s doing something useful.
Edit: Didn’t mean to sound too skeptical. In fact I just purchased the VTT oil vent cap for myself as the product seems to be of pretty sound design. I’ll let you know what I find.

 

[buster84]

View attachment 12431 View attachment 12432 View attachment 12433 I just seen the oil cap vent. I ordered one the same day. The fitment is solid/tight. No hood clearance issues. Material is beefy. The spring check is good not a cheap ass spring. Im very pleased simple and trick at the same time. Hella packing material also. Thanks VTT!

Lots of orange! Looks good! How do you plan to reinstall that engine cover with the pr coils? That sucks to have to cut the cover! Unless the wires and ignition wires are long enough to mount it a little further out?

 

[Rcboosted2007]

Any logs before / after with the oil vent cap? I’d love to see some kind of real-world experimental data that it’s doing something useful.
Edit: Didn’t mean to sound too skeptical. In fact I just purchased the VTT oil vent cap for myself as the product seems to be of pretty sound design. I’ll let you know what I find.

What sort of data would you like to compare? I can get a log today for you

 

[Rcboosted2007]

Lots of orange! Looks good! How do you plan to reinstall that engine cover with the pr coils? That sucks to have to cut the cover! Unless the wires and ignition wires are long enough to mount it a little further out?

Yeah i will need to get clever once the kit comes in. It is hard to mock anything up without the product.

 

[BOosted 335i]

How do you plan to reinstall that engine cover with the pr coils? That sucks to have to cut the cover!

It looks sexier with the PR Coils exposed,don't cover of them up

 

[dyezak]

On the stock system there is so much "cyclonic" stuff in the path that it really can't suck through too much. You can have too much vacuum -then you'll hear the engine whistling as it pulls air by the seals. That's not good at all.

These components together allow the right amount of vacuum to be maintained.

Do you have a particular setup/system you want a hand putting together?

Chris

Chris, that doesn't make sense. Because your 2nd diagram is using the VTT Valve Cover with a -10AN fitting to the high side. There isn't any cyclonic stuff there, and there's no valve or orifice to limit the flow. So @jyamona would be correct, the crankcase would never see vacuum at all with that design.

Also that second can being VTA is totally not required because you also have the oil cap breather there. And that breather *does* have the check valve. So if you used the low side as you have designed with the breather cap that has the check valve you would have the simplest PCV setup imaginable that should work in all situations.

EDIT - I know Tony mentioned it in the video, but the oil cap breather is the most interesting thing to date. With the baffles and the one way check valve inside of it you have really nailed a great design there that allows you/me/the community to simplify the PCV setup considerably.