N54 Turbo query

[wheela]

Dumb question, but do you get less boost from old turbos? Why would that be, just extra friction from worn bearings and shaft play limiting how fast they can spin? With journal bearings it's pretty much riding on an oil film layer, right? Maybe more for the rotational bearings than thrust bearings I guess.

 

[SLOWESTN54]

Dumb question, but do you get less boost from old turbos? Why would that be, just extra friction from worn bearings and shaft play limiting how fast they can spin? With journal bearings it's pretty much riding on an oil film layer, right? Maybe more for the rotational bearings than thrust bearings I guess.

Most of the time it’s just bad wastegate flappers.

 

[fmorelli]

Finally removed the stock turbos today. Sending them off to RB tomorrow. So glad I am replacing them. They are toast. The manifolds are date stamped 2007, so this car never even had them replaced under the recall.

So much other stuff needs attention under there to. Kinda wished I just pulled the whole motor out. So much easier doing stuff on an engine stand. Oh well I'll survive. At least I'm in a heated garage.

What's Rob doing? Rebuild? You decided to do any updates (I think he offers a few additional things on a stock rebuild, if desired)?

 

[TheFixer]

What's Rob doing? Rebuild? You decided to do any updates (I think he offers a few additional things on a stock rebuild, if desired)?

I spoke with him for an hour about his turbos and what I'm doing. I'll do either RB billets or RB ones. If I do RB ones he said I need a custom tune. I use MHD stage 2+ but he says that won't be good enough to get them at peak performance.

He sends turbos that he's built. You send him your stock cores, but only if stock BMW cores. Otherwise it's an extra 300 bucks.

He has five models listed for the 535i.

RB oem.
RB billets.
RB ones.
RB twos.
RB two plus.

He does have add ons.

He has his own inlets that he designed and has manufactured for him for his turbos. The back inlet is designed so it actually fits proper on the rear turbo. Not all squashed.

He also sells the aluminum outlet. But says the stock outlets are fine up to 500whp.

Also sells pcv stuff and turbo install kit.

Here's the link below for more detailed info.

535i - Products - RBTurbo.com

BMW N54 Twin Turbo Upgrade for your 1M, 135, 335, 535, or Z4

www.rbturbo.com

 

[SLOWESTN54]

I spoke with him for an hour about his turbos and what I'm doing. I'll do either RB billets or RB ones. If I do RB ones he said I need a custom tune. I use MHD stage 2+ but he says that won't be good enough to get them at peak performance.

He sends turbos that he's built. You send him your stock cores, but only if stock BMW cores. Otherwise it's an extra 300 bucks.

He has five models listed for the 535i.

RB oem.
RB billets.
RB ones.
RB twos.
RB two plus.

He does have add ons.

He has his own inlets that he designed and has manufactured for him for his turbos. The back inlet is designed so it actually fits proper on the rear turbo. Not all squashed.

He also sells the aluminum outlet. But says the stock outlets are fine up to 500whp.

Also sells pcv stuff and turbo install kit.

Here's the link below for more detailed info.

535i - Products - RBTurbo.com

BMW N54 Twin Turbo Upgrade for your 1M, 135, 335, 535, or Z4

www.rbturbo.com

Fair warning I run Rb Billets with RB inlets on my 535i plus fbo. When I tried running Stage 2 plus I had overboosting issues and throttle closures. I had to get a custom tune. Rob had let me know that my issue wasn’t common, so it could of just been a my car issue.

 

[TheFixer]

Fair warning I run Rb Billets with RB inlets on my 535i plus fbo. When I tried running Stage 2 plus I had overboosting issues and throttle closures. I had to get a custom tune. Rob had let me know that my issue wasn’t common, so it could of just been a my car issue.

Good to know. Thanks.

When screwing with aftermarket it's a mixed bag. Thankfully I'm able to work most bugs out on things.

Being we all have different fbo builds it can be hard to pinpoint what's causing certain issues.

Overboost on these cars can be the solenoids going bad, control linkages sticking and related wastegate problems. I read the knock sensors can cause it as well.

My main thing for now is just getting this mess back together. Putting that subframe back up is not going to be fun at all. So many little things to get just right.

 

[SLOWESTN54]

overboost on these cars can be the solenoids going bad, control linkages sticking and related wastegate problems.

I tried new solenoids, checked wastegate arm movement, checked amount of vacuum required to close wastegates, and slightly controversial i added back vacuum canisters as i previously had deleted them. A custom tune with slightly lower wgdc did it.

My main thing for now is just getting this mess back together. Putting that subframe back up is not going to be fun at all. So many little things to get just right.

Dropping the subframe looks like a hassle. I attempted it the first time i did turbos on my original 535i but gave up

 

[TheFixer]

I tried new solenoids, checked wastegate arm movement, checked amount of vacuum required to close wastegates, and slightly controversial i added back vacuum canisters as i previously had deleted them. A custom tune with slightly lower wgdc did it.

Dropping the subframe looks like a hassle. I attempted it the first time i did turbos on my original 535i but gave up

Hmmm....how odd. Well, at least the custom tune fixed it. That would keep bugging me though because I would need to know why it is happening.

Those canisters are more of a failsafe to keep vacuum steady and consistent.

The whole n54 system is sort of a finicky system that will throw codes and shut you down at the slightest deviation.

I postulate it was purposely done by BMW to help keep the motor lasting longer by dailing it back to prevent damage when things are off. It is fine for a stock car, but causes issues for people like us who want to fiddle with things outside the scope of OEM.

And dropping the sub frame is a PITA, but I don't quit. I'll get whatever tools, hardware, software, etc. to fix whatever needs to be fixed.

 

[SLOWESTN54]

Hmmm....how odd. Well, at least the custom tune fixed it. That would keep bugging me though because I would need to know why it is happening.

Those canisters are more of a failsafe to keep vacuum steady and consistent.

The whole n54 system is sort of a finicky system that will throw codes and shut you down at the slightest deviation.

I postulate it was purposely done by BMW to help keep the motor lasting longer by dailing it back to prevent damage when things are off. It is fine for a stock car, but causes issues for people like us who want to fiddle with things outside the scope of OEM.

And dropping the sub frame is a PITA, but I don't quit. I'll get whatever tools, hardware, software, etc. to fix whatever needs to be fixed.

Well i spoke to multiple people about it and was advised it was just caused but the additional flow provided by inlets combined with the billet wheels. Hence lowering duty cycle did the trick.

Everyone says different things when it comes to vacuum canisters. My e92 had zero issues without them. But when i first was trouble shooting my 535i i was told to put them back in by @SlowE93 hence i did.

I don't mind all the safeties keep the motor safe. A tuner who knows what he's doing shouldn't have many issues adjusting things accordingly.

I was 18 and a little overwhelmed when i first attempted removing a e60 subframe lol, I'd like to believe I've come a long way since then

 

[Krampus]

Hmmm....how odd. Well, at least the custom tune fixed it. That would keep bugging me though because I would need to know why it is happening.

Those canisters are more of a failsafe to keep vacuum steady and consistent.

The whole n54 system is sort of a finicky system that will throw codes and shut you down at the slightest deviation.

I postulate it was purposely done by BMW to help keep the motor lasting longer by dailing it back to prevent damage when things are off. It is fine for a stock car, but causes issues for people like us who want to fiddle with things outside the scope of OEM.

And dropping the sub frame is a PITA, but I don't quit. I'll get whatever tools, hardware, software, etc. to fix whatever needs to be fixed.

Replace the oil pan gasket when the largest job is the subframe. Unless the gasket has ever been replaced ( replace it again). Other parts are now comfortable to replace such as engine mounts, water pump, thermostat, rod bearings. Endless swamp ...

 

[TheFixer]

Replace the oil pan gasket when the largest job is the subframe. Unless the gasket has ever been replaced ( replace it again). Other parts are now comfortable to replace such as engine mounts, water pump, thermostat, rod bearings. Endless swamp ...

Yup. Oil pan off. Water pump off. Thermostat off. Engine mounts off....etc. I contemplated rod bearings but I'm going to be under 500hp at the crank. Should be OK.

 

[SlowE93]

Well i spoke to multiple people about it and was advised it was just caused but the additional flow provided by inlets combined with the billet wheels. Hence lowering duty cycle did the trick.

Everyone says different things when it comes to vacuum canisters. My e92 had zero issues without them. But when i first was trouble shooting my 535i i was told to put them back in by @SlowE93 hence i did.

I don't mind all the safeties keep the motor safe. A tuner who knows what he's doing shouldn't have many issues adjusting things accordingly.

I was 18 and a little overwhelmed when i first attempted removing a e60 subframe lol, I'd like to believe I've come a long way since then

The more you deviate from factory set up....the more issues to over come.

 

[fmorelli]

I contemplated rod bearings but I'm going to be under 500hp at the crank. Should be OK.

All I know is that, when I say stuff like this, seems to bite me in the butt.

 

[TheFixer]

All I know is that, when I say stuff like this, seems to bite me in the butt.

I can't build a better one unless it blows up......

 

[RuskiRacer]

I can't build a better one unless it blows up......

I'm currently using a stock 220k mile motor and its a pretty smooth unit if you've been good about your oil changes your rod bearings will be fine. Most of the people that have wanted me to do rod bearings on there n54s they've been in really good shape and no real need for them to be done

 

[TheFixer]

I'm currently using a stock 220k mile motor and its a pretty smooth unit if you've been good about your oil changes your rod bearings will be fine. Most of the people that have wanted me to do rod bearings on there n54s they've been in really good shape and no real need for them to be done

That's what I've seen on various threads. I have 135k on mine. I change it every 5k. Sooner if it's being hammered on. I have no idea what the previous owners did though. Hopefully at least every 10k.

 

[RuskiRacer]

That's what I've seen on various threads. I have 135k on mine. I change it every 5k. Sooner if it's being hammered on. I have no idea what the previous owners did though. Hopefully at least every 10k.

I think you'll be in good shape

 

[TheFixer]

*sigh*

Still waiting on my Turbos.

I hope I can remember how to put the subframe back on.

 

[SLOWESTN54]

*sigh*

Still waiting on my Turbos.

I hope I can remember how to put the subframe back on.

Did Rob give you a date? I still waiting on my Game finishers

 

[TheFixer]

Did Rob give you a date? I still waiting on my Game finishers

It was open. My only thing of concern is not hearing back when I emailed him. I'll shoot another email today.