I agree. And the difference when you have the parts side by side is huge. The new design is a proper upgrade and with the correct installation, like using MOS2 grease when torquing should lead to the desired results.
To ARP or not to ARP
- Thread starter fmorelli
- Start date
I agree. And the difference when you have the parts side by side is huge. The new design is a proper upgrade and with the correct installation, like using MOS2 grease when torquing should lead to the desired results.
I agree, but also disagree.
Thats like saying they knew there were/are injector issues.....so revision 2, and 3, and 4, and.....you get the picture.
Superceded parts are not always the fix one is looking for.
Haha, good point! Anybody know which way the bolt is threaded relative to engine rotation?
Last edited:
You are completely right. But with the stock hub and a rebuild engine, which means that it was torqued by a mechanic not the production line robot, my car made 600+ ft/lbs at 4k rpm with no issues and also hitting the rev limiter here and there hard was no issue.
So with the right installation the new design shouldn´t make any issues. Installation is key.
Comparing it to a design of injectors is a bit difficult.
So you have the original version ? Not the latest and greatest ?
If so, you think all the issues are mainly from factory not being correct torque on unopened block, stock turbo hub failures ?
Some have said even at 700+ whp the key is to NOT do a hard downshift at WOT. That straight line acceleration is not a problem. Lots of different opinions out there.
On my engine i stated the torque number i pulled it and it is the one having the original design. But i had Head Lift.
I did some downshifts at WOT on it and had no issues.
On the current build i bought the new design and had them here on my table for comparison. So the new design is going into my new engine i am building right now.
I have no answer to this. I saw videos of the production line and it is fully automated. So i don´t think that the factory torquing has a big variance. May be the failures are rather related to tuning and messed up torque tables or other tables? I don´t know. Do we have information if the failures are on MHD or JB4 only? I think creating statistical relevant data is impossible.
If the bolt is threaded in the direction whereby it tends to tighten under engine acceleration (not saying it is, I don't know either way), then that would mean abrupt engine deceleration is what loosens the bolt. If that was the case, wouldn't that mean the failures have nothing to do with power level?
This is what I have read the main issue to be. Even doing a burnout and then if tires get hot enough and bite (sticky tires and a prepped track), engine speed decreases dramatically causing failure. Sucks because it just makes me want to move away from the platform with these issues that should NOT be issues.
5 k just in parts basically. Rods,pistons, headstuds, darton sleeves, pinned crankhub. new gaskets. I hope people understand the friction disks are designed for 300hp. If you look at how they design m motors only the s55 got the silly 3 piece design. And there known to spin them the most because there torquier motors and have a higher redline
The head-studs that are being sell for N54 are head studs that are not created specifically for our engines. Thus these head-studs DO NOT have the correct thread size to grab the n54 block thread and with time it will cause damages to the thread block. I am talking about experience, so please when purchasing head-studs do your due diligence to investigate all specs of the studs being purchase. I believe VAC and Billiam are offering the correct ones, but don't follow me, call them and ask them for specs on their items. Just my advise so no one else have this issue in the future. Once you ruin your block (because of wrong head-studs) you will need to fix it, but then you have a fixed block this means is a less strong engine. My two cents, guys!!
Billiam and vac are only in it for money there not giving up the thread length and how much engagement it has. I was on the phone with arp and the said they don't wanna make a n54 headstud kit because are blocks are so brittle and they rip the threads out the block. Best bet is to ns300l every hole and hope they don't rip out .
In my opinion vac ripped my the fuck off to. Called them 2 weeks ago to place an order for studs. Some wierd reason the credit card i use on fcp euro all the time doesn't work for vac for some reason. Call back the next week because I got busy and forgot to call back the next day and my invoice somehow gets 150 more expensive.
Please, if you can, keep up posted when you receive yours and give us your recommendation for future reference, if you don't have inconvenience with that. Good luck on your built!!
I'm gonna update everyone with the thread pitch and how much engagement it has into the block and the overall length of the stud. Definitely wanna give the community more options and I think knowing which studs work the best getting the proper amount of engagement is huge. If anyone has put a n54 ans n55 headbolt next to each other you'll see how the n54 has nearly half and inch more of thread engagement
A good friend and myself just received the head studs from VAC after 6 months of back order time.
I ordered the M11 and M9 studs and my mate the full M11 set. Will share the sizes soon.
I ordered the M11 and M9 studs and my mate the full M11 set. Will share the sizes soon.
For anyone curious. N54 Raching Channel (Gago a mate of DocVu) just built an engine with the upgraded BMW hub design.
Car seems to be going for some serious power levels. I think that this is quite a good real world example of how good the new design is.
Car seems to be going for some serious power levels. I think that this is quite a good real world example of how good the new design is.
Similar threads
