Tig welding 4047 on block

[shushikiary]

Found the problem... a bolt backed out of the timing chain guide and bent the exhaust vanos timing plate... the bolt above the one that backed out is also only finger tight... going to likely have to check torque on all of them.

Talked to Ben, he has notes on every bolt he torqued, an those to bolts and 4 of the bed plate bolts (front 2 most and rear 2 most) are not in his notes, I caught the bed plate bolts during assembly and corrected that. He's going to give me 2 new timing plates and 2 new vanos actuators just for good measure as well as the bolts that have to be replaced and I'll just replace all that my self.

Pics:

 

[shushikiary]

Well, passed the 500 mile mark, sent off the UOA on the BR30 oil and switched to my schaefer's 5W40 oil, then disabled can bus option in my reflex which made it work, and was able to prove my PI was working, so I gave her some beans and hit 22 psi at 3500 RPM with a brief pulse of the go pedal.... It's nice to remember how stupid fast this thing is.

Jake from motiv got back to me and I think I get why the reflex was not working now, it's because it was in protection mode as the ECU was not talking to it because the can bus option in MHD is the "ECA" option, and I'm not running an ECA so I didn't check it, but that's what you're supposed to check even if you don't have an ECA, so I'll have to try that.

It was also unseasonably warm here in Colorado at 85 today, and with the AC on full blast on the highway even with max cool on she's running 220 deg water temp (but holding at 207 oil temp with my dual oil cooler setup), which makes me grumpy. I want on a 100 degree with AC on full for it to never go over 220 deg F, which I know is a tall order on these cars.... so I'm cooking up plans to add a 125,000 BTU cooler and a 40 gallon per minute EWP (with a temp controller) in parallel with my heater core (so the ECU can't be stupid and close the thermostat to keep the engine hot).

I did something very similar on the race jeep so it can't overheat at even 100% humidity at 108 deg F when racing in Tennessee except that was more like a 300,000 BTU "heater core", works like magic.

I've also been noticing lately how much oil pressure changes with oil temp... holy moly. At 160 deg oil temp idle pressure is 40 psi and anything above 2k RPM is 70 psi. At even 210 deg oil temp idle pressure is 18-20 and above 2k rpm pressure is 45-50 psi (and that's on a 5w40, imagine the stock 5w30), and it only gets worse as it gets hotter, though it slows down it's rate in reduction much over 210, but idle oil pressure is something likely in the low teens at 260 deg.... just painful to watch. Best way to keep oil temps down is to keep coolant temps down, so refer to said secondary "heater core".

 

[Torgus]

Well, passed the 500 mile mark, sent off the UOA on the BR30 oil and switched to my schaefer's 5W40 oil, then disabled can bus option in my reflex which made it work, and was able to prove my PI was working, so I gave her some beans and hit 22 psi at 3500 RPM with a brief pulse of the go pedal.... It's nice to remember how stupid fast this thing is.

Jake from motiv got back to me and I think I get why the reflex was not working now, it's because it was in protection mode as the ECU was not talking to it because the can bus option in MHD is the "ECA" option, and I'm not running an ECA so I didn't check it, but that's what you're supposed to check even if you don't have an ECA, so I'll have to try that.

It was also unseasonably warm here in Colorado at 85 today, and with the AC on full blast on the highway even with max cool on she's running 220 deg water temp (but holding at 207 oil temp with my dual oil cooler setup), which makes me grumpy. I want on a 100 degree with AC on full for it to never go over 220 deg F, which I know is a tall order on these cars.... so I'm cooking up plans to add a 125,000 BTU cooler and a 40 gallon per minute EWP (with a temp controller) in parallel with my heater core (so the ECU can't be stupid and close the thermostat to keep the engine hot).

I did something very similar on the race jeep so it can't overheat at even 100% humidity at 108 deg F when racing in Tennessee except that was more like a 300,000 BTU "heater core", works like magic.

I've also been noticing lately how much oil pressure changes with oil temp... holy moly. At 160 deg oil temp idle pressure is 40 psi and anything above 2k RPM is 70 psi. At even 210 deg oil temp idle pressure is 18-20 and above 2k rpm pressure is 45-50 psi (and that's on a 5w40, imagine the stock 5w30), and it only gets worse as it gets hotter, though it slows down it's rate in reduction much over 210, but idle oil pressure is something likely in the low teens at 260 deg.... just painful to watch. Best way to keep oil temps down is to keep coolant temps down, so refer to said secondary "heater core".

Can you make a separate thread for your '125,000 BTU cooler and a 40 gallon per minute EWP'? I think it might be useful for other people and it could get lost in this thread.

I am glad to hear things are working out better for you now!

 

[shushikiary]

Sure, I can do that when I do it.

The tricky part for me is figuring out where to put it. My intake uses two cone filters in the driver side bumper, my oil coolers are one in the driver side and one behind the kidney grills, so front space is very limited, so this will likely have to be at the back of vehicle. Because I'm not using the stock mufflers I have a ton of space at the back of the vehicle so I'm currently eying putting it and the pump there.

 

[shushikiary]

Did my first full throttle run in 4th gear on the motor, she hit 20 psi by 3200 RPM starting at 2500 RPM by 3500 I was at 24, and hit 26 PSI at 3700 RPM before the boost controller said "WHOA Nelly!" and pulled it back down, then ran 22-23 psi to redline. Ran super clean, fuel is good, virtually no timing corrections, though it was doing the normal N54 thing of "hmm cyl 5 needs some correction" and pulled it down a few degrees... I may up the trim pots to 24k ohm from their current 12.5k ohm.

I'll reduce the MAC duty cycle from 3000-4500 to help reduce the boost ramp and then up the target from 22 to 23 psi and see how she does. Turbo speed gauge showed I hit over 130k RPM, though I'll have to pay more attention to see if it's at redline or in that mid range.

 

[shushikiary]

4000 mile update. I've added an oil accumulator to the car (which I had planned to do for a long time because I've not been able to fully threshold brake on the car (ever, on any motor) without the oil pressure going to zero). Figured it would be cheap insurance, and yes it works great, now I never drop below 15 PSI oil pressure from a full threshold brake from 90 to zero.

I also bought all the parts to add a second coolant radiator using a derale 125,000 BTU cooler which I'll mount in the rear next to the muffler with a scoop as I have the VRSF exhaust and it's muffler is much smaller than the stock 2 so there is space, I'll also add a davis craig EWP150 and T into the main radiator lines to feed it. I'm doing this because in the 100 degree heat we've had on the highway climbing a hill with the AC on max she would get up to 240 degree coolant temps... I can't imagine how fast it would overheat if I took it to the track. Granted wit the AC off she doesn't get anywhere near that hot, but given car AC systems are 4-5 ton system which is 48,000 to 60,000 BTU/hr. HP cooling is about 0.35*HP*9,000 and most stock radiators are on the order of 300,000 BTU/Hr for decent sized ones, which completely explains the cooling issues... 700hp (not even at the wheels, at the crank) is 2 million BTU/Hr. And all that math is assuming standard ambient temps, that all gets de-rated as your ambient temp goes up. Obviously at 80 mph going up a hill you're more using 60 hp maybe, but that's still 189,000 BTU plus 60,000 for the AC and congrats you're at 250,000 BTU, so you can see the problem.

Jake at Motiv switched me over to IKMOS, which has been MUCH better at handling the pre-turbo O2 sensors as well as dealing with lower RPM's with the high lift cams, and also has much better boost control as I'm now on CAN bus with the reflex. Given that people have said they've seen a 4-6 PSI drop in pressure for the same flow with high lift cams and a ported head and I'm running 22-23 PSI at redline on this GTX3582R GEN II, that would put me at the equivalent of (assuming this is all linear, which it's not) of around 26-28 PSI on a stock head. The compressor map seems to align with this, my turbo speed gauge shows me hit just over 140,000 RPM starting around 5000 RPM to redline, if you look at the boost taper and calculate the ratio and peek at the compressor map you see I'm moving around 85-90 lbs/min of air, which using the old 9.5-10.5 hp per lb/min rule I'm right around 900 crank hp, which then lines up.

Everything is going good, oil analysis show nice low wear numbers as well, using schaefers OTR plus 5w40. This turbo has now lasted me longer than any twin turbo setup I ever ran .

Oil pressure is great, note I quickly found out the brass oil pressure sensors from AEM are CRAP and got their stainless one which is much better! I now see 80-90 psi above 2k rpm cold and 70 psi at idle (1000 rpm idle), once hot that tapers down to around 40 psi idle and 60-70 psi above 2k rpm. Exactly where it's supposed to be.