Review: Turner Motorsport 60A Engine Mounts
- Thread starter veer90
- Start date
Perfect. My Revshift 80A that is, no experience with the Turner ones. That being said I have a single turbo downpipe which I think sits father way and it is ceramic and then DEI wrapped. I doubt it will suffer as much heat as twin turbo downpipes which no one wraps. The revshift passenger side mount does come with a small heat shield which may help...some.
Mine melted although I had the revshift heat shield in place and wrapped my race-catted downpipes.
I remember that and that is frustrating. I'm surprised the answer was just use the 95A ones. I *almost* want to upgrade as a precaution but the 80A are perfect for me, zero complaints.
It looks like the single turbo down pipes are farther away from the motor mount:
This is a doc race kit. I have an ACF kit which doesn't have the weird swing back from the front runners so the runners are further away as well than in the pic below:
I forget where my dump tubes run, I assume close to the mount...but I imagine they run colder than twin downpipes.
The twins downpipes seem to come much closer to the MM, looks like BMW has some 'factory' heatshields already in place:
I think the only solution would be upgrade to the 95A and make a real physical heatshield. A real barrier not the sock Revshift gives us.
I will keep an eye on my passenger MM for sure. But it's been ok for now...
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Oh man, I've had my 60A in for about 10k miles. Hope I don't have any issues with mine, looks like I need to fabricate a heat shield ASAP.
Hm. I wonder how bad the NVH would be if I used a 80A driver and 95A passenger and heat shield and cover by the DPs.
Here's the NVH scale from none to massive:
stock < 35is < passenger side 80A < passenger side 95A < both sides 80A < combination of 80A and 95A < both sides 95A < any combination of solid mounts
Personally I run passenger side 80A bottom 95A top and drivers side stock. And there's no way Im reducing idle to stock.
IMHO anything above 35is comes with unacceptable levels of NVH for a street cars. You need to raise idle significantly to be able to live with any of these combinations. There's nothing "OEM+" about having even just one poly mount installed. It is false marketing.
In comparison, mods like solid sub-frame mounts and bearing suspension arm "bushings" are much more "OEM+" or "BMW M+" if you will. People say such mods are too extreme for street cars, but in reality they are much easier to live with than poly motor mounts.
Keep in mind that even BMW Motorsport cars such as M135i Racing and M4 GT4s come with all bearing suspension but the engine mounts are just reinforced stock mounts.
I like my car pretty quiet and smooth. I still have my stock mufflers on.
Twin disk and RTD shifter install before Rev Shift mounts and both contributed to NVH.
80a passenger side mount, stock driver side mount, and e46 m3 trans mounts are a good quiet combo with idle at 900.
The only 'downside' is there's a vibration increase when I bog the car (didn't massage the clutch enough or low rpm/high load situations) but not much more than stock mounts and nothing I can't fix with input changes.
Twin disk and RTD shifter install before Rev Shift mounts and both contributed to NVH.
80a passenger side mount, stock driver side mount, and e46 m3 trans mounts are a good quiet combo with idle at 900.
The only 'downside' is there's a vibration increase when I bog the car (didn't massage the clutch enough or low rpm/high load situations) but not much more than stock mounts and nothing I can't fix with input changes.
This is hugely informative.
Wonder what the M135i Racing uses for the base mounts aside from the reinforcement plate.
Wonder what the M135i Racing uses for the base mounts aside from the reinforcement plate.
The part number for that reinforcement ring on the M235iR is 22118416823, FYI. Pretty pricey but interesting...
www.ecstuning.com
M235iR Motor Mount Stiffening Ring
M235iR Motor Mount Stiffening Ring (Mfg#22118416823).
www.ecstuning.com
Crap I missed this post. I will add some air-gap shielding when I go to install my twins, hope that helps. Downpipes on these cars would really benefit from heat barrier coatings like Swaintech ...
Filippo
The part number for that reinforcement ring on the M235iR is 22118416823, FYI. Pretty pricey but interesting...
M235iR Motor Mount Stiffening Ring
M235iR Motor Mount Stiffening Ring (Mfg#22118416823).
How has no one made this in the aftermarket?
I looked into it, would have cost me like $300 each minimum. Decided it was better to buy the revshift.
My shop is gonna throw in some dimpled heat shielding between the DPs and the passenger mount when turbos go in. Hope that's enough to prevent melting.
All accounts I've seen of melting have been on twins.
Are people still melting their mounts with the revshift heat sock + stock heat shield?
black revshift + heat sock + track use = melting
green revshift + selfmade heat sock + track use = no melting (so far)
I dont know what the stock heat shield is (Z4). My 200 cell downpipes are wrapped.
Turbos are gc lites.
I think I had mentioned something about the likelihood of these mounts melting after a while due to my shops experience with so many poly mounts melting on street cars and was dismissed because of the heat blanket. One of the few cases where I'm not happy I was right because these seemed like an excellent bang for your buck upgrade.
Are you certain it was the track day that made them melt? Is the car a track car only, or did you only inspect them after that track day? I know coolant and oil temps can see some crazy high temps on a track day if you're really giving it the juice for a long time, but I wonder what's worse in the case of the RS mounts - prolonged and repetitive high heat from street driving slowly causing the failure or if the engine bay really got that much hotter from one track day and exceeded the maximum radiant temp threshold. I thought during the initial marketing campaign that RS said they torture tested them on the race track so I'm still more inclined to think it's the street driving etc similar to the other poly engine mount failures.
Are you certain it was the track day that made them melt? Is the car a track car only, or did you only inspect them after that track day? I know coolant and oil temps can see some crazy high temps on a track day if you're really giving it the juice for a long time, but I wonder what's worse in the case of the RS mounts - prolonged and repetitive high heat from street driving slowly causing the failure or if the engine bay really got that much hotter from one track day and exceeded the maximum radiant temp threshold. I thought during the initial marketing campaign that RS said they torture tested them on the race track so I'm still more inclined to think it's the street driving etc similar to the other poly engine mount failures.
