Propulsive Dynamics A/T upgrade Beta results
- Thread starter Chris@Motiv
- Start date
Why, what was the issue?
I’ve been going back and forth on adding a second oil cooler there, interested in your experience
It won't work. Looks good, but won't work. Heat soak keeps temps in 200ºF and higher... NOT GOOD. Now in left fog light area with two fans and 180ºF is high...190ºF if in insane traffic and hot day.
Good to know
Mine is in the wheel well with zero fans. If I don't put it in N while waiting in the slow creep line to stage at the strip it will easily hit >200. I should have left the heat exchanger in, would have worked much better than the cooler alone.
Mine is in the wheel well with zero fans. If I don't put it in N while waiting in the slow creep line to stage at the strip it will easily hit >200. I should have left the heat exchanger in, would have worked much better than the cooler alone.
Just add a two small fans and wire them to the fog light/ignition accessory on and use a 180ºF thermostat to activate the fans. Works perfectly. When driving, just leave the light switch on the 'automatic' mode to keep a live current available to the fans when they need to switch on.
I don't have details on fans or switches...I should have kept a record, but I didn't. So you will have to google the entire thing again. Buy good fans, do not skimp and look for cheap prices. Same with thermostat switch.
Before the fans, the temp would rise super fast at traffic situations and city driving...I had it up to 220º one time. Now does not go over 195º in super hot super traffic. 95% of the time it is 180ºF or below.
Appreciate the tip. I've wired and rewired shit so many times I already have extra power source wires running thru my firewall from junction box, so no schematics needed. Will throw something together for someone else who might need it if I do tackle it.
Issue with my setup is it would have to be on the front side of the cooler. Clearance between tire and cooler on full compression is mms
* mainly due to DIY bracket mounting location. Which I guess I could re configure. Hmm, such a pain in the balls (never enjoyed legos) but likely worth it
I used tie wraps, heavy duty and work fine, plus they do not add any extra dimension requirements so the cooler is inside safely and the fans can be mounted inside the fog light area so they do not touch the wheels when turning.
this is a pic of the first fan. I added a second fan later. Works fine. No issues at all. So far reliable as a rolex. The grill vent is ordered from ecs tuning and is for the right side of the car but I turned it upside down and cut out the slats to make room for flow.
SPAL puller fan. 5.2 inch.
I can't believe how ridiculously powerful this fan is. More than enough for the setrab.
I love it!
Can you show us a pic of the fog light area all assembled? I’ve been thinking about doing a functional fog delete for years!
Can you show us a pic of the fog light area all assembled? I’ve been thinking about doing a functional fog delete for years!
Nobody makes a fog light replacement vent so I went to home depot and bought mesh wire - super cheap, I used the fog light itself to measure, cut, and sculpt the mesh to conform to the fog light empty space. No screws were used to fasten the mesh to the hole since the mesh has rebound and the edges push into the front bumper naturally.
The strength of the mesh is similar to or just a bit weaker than if you used plastic made vent covers. If any debris can damage the mesh, then I believe that same debris would also damage a plastic vent cover. Of course, without screws, you must be diligent and double check from time to time for continuous alignment and proper fit. Otherwise, over time, the mesh may be moved by accidental brushes with passersby or object in the environment. It will not, however, be moved by the wind speed..no matter if you go WOT or not.
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