It's not that simple as the fan is pwm controlled and if you over ride it it will make the dme freak out that's why it needs to be dme controlled
MHD update v1.92
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anyways, back on topic I will be updating MHD not for blurbles but for the revised coolant target logic.
I really really really would like to run single bank fueling tho
I really really really would like to run single bank fueling tho
In a very, very rare move I've deleted some posts rather than relocated them.
Torgus has been harping on this issue with VTT since I've known him, literally dozens of times. So someone can claim I'm censoring but at some point that argument doesn't fly, you're just shitting on my day while I'm at work doing other real life stuff.
We do have an expectation of acceptable user conduct despite generally allowing topics to run their course (even discussion which my own vendors find unfavorable).
Harassment of other users which includes vendors, threats, excessive inappropriate actions, those all fall in line with maintaining a respectable discussion forum, even in the Octagon. If you have some personal issue with another user here, call them on the phone, tell them how you feel and spare the rest of us from the crap. I've issued a temporary ban for this offense it will expire in May.
Torgus has been harping on this issue with VTT since I've known him, literally dozens of times. So someone can claim I'm censoring but at some point that argument doesn't fly, you're just shitting on my day while I'm at work doing other real life stuff.
We do have an expectation of acceptable user conduct despite generally allowing topics to run their course (even discussion which my own vendors find unfavorable).
Harassment of other users which includes vendors, threats, excessive inappropriate actions, those all fall in line with maintaining a respectable discussion forum, even in the Octagon. If you have some personal issue with another user here, call them on the phone, tell them how you feel and spare the rest of us from the crap. I've issued a temporary ban for this offense it will expire in May.
My car with the upgraded Pure Stage 2 HiFlo turbos, with upgraded CSF Radiator, Dinan Oil Cooler... and my oil temps are around 190-205 normal city driving and 210 when I go apeshit on throttle racing. Coolant is 195-208 normal city driving with traffic and 210 to 219 under super hard driving. In Farenheit.
Do you have the Dinan oil cooler as well as the secondary oil cooler?
I only have the upgraded Dinan Oil Cooler and upgraded radiator. MHD set on normal coolant mode.
I cannot install secondary oil cooler since the driver side is used by the Propulsive Dynamics Oil Cooler for the Transmission. That Dinan unit has worked flawlessly for years with zero leaks. However, I think a better value would be the Stett Single cooler kit. Cheaper and similar quality level, without the wind baffles.
I also replaced my stock thermostat with a 175F thermostat.
soooo it does this after a code clear
it is NOT 118 degrees in NY rn. anyone
else have this issue?
Incorrect ambient temperature will occasionally arise and make your fan go apeshit right after you flash and then drive. Either let the car sit after flashing for at least ten minutes for shut down to complete. Or simply pull over, turn off completely and wait five minutes then restart... it will go away.
I’d love to understand how that happens and why sleep mode helps. I can surmise it’s held in volatile memory somewhere and clears on shut down
The coolant target flash option is for drag racing or if you sleeved your engine imho. It makes little sense to use the lowered targets on the street and they won't increase the cooling performance available for circuit use either. Only delay the problem for a lap or less. Same goes for oil thermostats with lower set points.
The stock dme already has adaptive cooling targets, and it only takes one wot pull for the target to drop. When I enter a track I simply do a quick pull after exiting the pit lane, and then do a slow lap to warm up brakes and tires. As Im starting the second lap, coolant has already dropped way below the usual ECO mode. From there on, as I start to push, targets wont matter anyway as they are never reached again. That is unless it is super cold putside of course (it never is here where I am). Only sufficient radiator area size, fmic area size and oil cooler area size will keep you from overheating.
The the testing I have done with radiator output temp logging shows our cars do not have a water pump flow problem at all. It's the size (area) of the stock radiator (and all aftermarket types I know of) thats the main problem.
Cruising around with low oil and water temps cant be good for anything. So I recommend MHD label these options properly, ie 1) stock (adaptive), 2) drag strip, 3) very drag strip.
I would much rather have an option to lower the limits for limp mode, so that the car pulls AC and power from 110C coolant instead of 118C (stock), just to add an extra layer of protection for circuit use. Oil could be set at 138C maybe instead of 147. But Im probably the only guy in the world who would use such an option haha.
The stock dme already has adaptive cooling targets, and it only takes one wot pull for the target to drop. When I enter a track I simply do a quick pull after exiting the pit lane, and then do a slow lap to warm up brakes and tires. As Im starting the second lap, coolant has already dropped way below the usual ECO mode. From there on, as I start to push, targets wont matter anyway as they are never reached again. That is unless it is super cold putside of course (it never is here where I am). Only sufficient radiator area size, fmic area size and oil cooler area size will keep you from overheating.
The the testing I have done with radiator output temp logging shows our cars do not have a water pump flow problem at all. It's the size (area) of the stock radiator (and all aftermarket types I know of) thats the main problem.
Cruising around with low oil and water temps cant be good for anything. So I recommend MHD label these options properly, ie 1) stock (adaptive), 2) drag strip, 3) very drag strip.
I would much rather have an option to lower the limits for limp mode, so that the car pulls AC and power from 110C coolant instead of 118C (stock), just to add an extra layer of protection for circuit use. Oil could be set at 138C maybe instead of 147. But Im probably the only guy in the world who would use such an option haha.
@Asbjorn you are a gift to this community... It's awesome that you can use your wealth of track data to help us make better decisions with our street cars.
I never considered the lower temps being worse... I had plenty of times when the oil gauge got really really high and I felt that the higher fan speeds of the "drag strip" seemed to help. I would love a toggle switch for this; when I am autocrossing or doing HPDE I'd love a "RUN FANS LIKE CRAZY" mode and then use adaptive mode for the other 99% of the time. I certainly know when I need extra cooling, even driving on Tail of Dragon or when I am about to rip some tires...
I never considered the lower temps being worse... I had plenty of times when the oil gauge got really really high and I felt that the higher fan speeds of the "drag strip" seemed to help. I would love a toggle switch for this; when I am autocrossing or doing HPDE I'd love a "RUN FANS LIKE CRAZY" mode and then use adaptive mode for the other 99% of the time. I certainly know when I need extra cooling, even driving on Tail of Dragon or when I am about to rip some tires...
Definitely don't want lower temps in Drag racing, you want oil at around 220f and water at around 200 with ait"s as low as you can this is where Max fan mode would be awesome.
Idle your car in the staging lanes get it up to temp flick on the fan full blast instant lower iat"s and getting rid of unwanted heat under the bonnet
Little things like this get overlooked and can rob you of power as soon as your iats go up the ecu starts pulling timing and other things costing you precious tenths and mph
Max fan mode is needed and long overdue
Idle your car in the staging lanes get it up to temp flick on the fan full blast instant lower iat"s and getting rid of unwanted heat under the bonnet
Little things like this get overlooked and can rob you of power as soon as your iats go up the ecu starts pulling timing and other things costing you precious tenths and mph
Max fan mode is needed and long overdue
Sure. It is just smarter to have some options separate from the map. I would probably want the lower limp mode limits for street use (water pump failure might be catched earlier) and normal track events. But I might not want it for one "all out" lap during time attack competitions in hot weather.
Max fan mode to lower iats while keeping water temps no lower than 200F would be great as well. Agree with @martymil on that. It would work great in combination with external high pressure FMIC water spray as well to pull the mist through. Besides the drag strip, it might be useful for skid pads and autocross events as mentioned as well. But of course the fan should stop as you start driving, just like it normally would. Another rare case would be grid starts. I experienced once where the start got delayed after the formation lap. I remember loosing all hope as the DME slowly entered ECO mode (+222F coolant) just before the lights went out...
Here's a picture of the situation taken just before the race start. You can see the AiM device displays a happy and economical 106C water temperature as I am sitting there with DSC=off in 1st gear...
BTW another option I would love for track use is no burbles...
Man you speak the truth. I have logs from my Test and Tune session right before Covid shut everything down and that's exactly what happened to me. Once my car got heatsoaked I never got the IAT's below 90-100 and it climbed very fast . Sure, I could use a better IC than the stepped 5 inch I have,however the timing corrections at the top of 3rd and 4th were really frustrating [93 octane stage 2 map]
As long as people arent pushing 24+ psi through the rev range (which they wont produce on top end anyway), AGREED, it should be fine. I ran my car on a stepped 5" on stock turbos and for a bit when I went PS2.
Stock turbos blow a LOT of hot air out of their efficiency range.
I found anything over 20 psi is pointless on stockers, max fan mode helped controlling that.
Let's hope they get it done, I don't expect it for free and I'm willing to pay for it.
Let's hope they get it done, I don't expect it for free and I'm willing to pay for it.
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