Ad: M18 Performance Cast Aluminum Valve Cover

[M18.racing]

Yes some weight more because all the gunk is trapped inside pcv .inside the cover

 

[DaeDoe]

On the factory valve cover, the PCV exits are at the rear side of the cover. These being on the top, is there enough room to clear a factory top cover if one desires to run that?

Filippo

I tested with a VTT one for you.

You might be able to get it to work with some tweaking, but its tight.

I think with no foam in the back half of the cover,low profile 90degree pcv fittings and a little trimming youd be good to go.

 

[M18.racing]

I would imagine with this VC if you really wanted to keep a stock style PCV you could. You'd be running a -10 to barb fitting or similar and then just run your flapper and PCV valve in-line. The flapper might not look the prettiest sitting in the middle of a line, but I'm sure you could either tuck it behind the engine somewhere or put it towards the end of the hose.

My main question regarding the PCV system was whether or not we could take the easy route and run one of each fitting like pictures, but that was answered in another post from @m18performance when they said that its bypassing the entire stock style PCV system for two-10 outlets - i.e. no, we'll have to be more creative than just using a straight breather and the Radium pcv valve if we want low/high side separation but that's easy enough imo.

Yes you are correct if you would really wanted to .

You could run 10an hose to your catch can install PCV valve at outlet run hose it to intake manifold and have another outlet running to your flapper. It will all depend how good is the catch can trapping oil because in a long run you will have oil in your intercooler piping and your intake manifold , its one of the reason DI we get to remove our intake manifold and do some cleaning

Note one of the reason we ditch stock cover because of stock PCV .

 

[M18.racing]

Yes with our valve cover stock top cover fits perfectly and sits tight because its very close shape as stock cover. You might want to run 90Degree elbow at the end if you want to vent or run a hose to your catch can.

 

[fmorelli]

Can we get verification that it works with 90 degree fittings? If that's possible it would be helpful.

Filippo

 

[MDORPHN]

Can we get verification that it works with 90 degree fittings? If that's possible it would be helpful.

Filippo

Filippo/others -

What fittings/hoses/components (external pcv, flapper valve, etc.) would you suggest be used with this valve cover, either VTA or with catch cans?

Thanks.

Neil

 

[M18.racing]

Low profile 90 will work without touching the top cover. Oil cap door could be made for nice clean look.

 

[fmorelli]

Filippo/others -
What fittings/hoses/components (external pcv, flapper valve, etc.) would you suggest be used with this valve cover, either VTA or with catch cans?
Thanks. Neil

https://bmw.spoolstreet.com/threads/aftermarket-valve-cover-and-pcv.5145/ ...

Should shed light on that.

Filippo

 

[JimboFresh206]

-10 banjo (radium) seems like it would fit nicely

Does this cover block the head ports, or is drilling+tapping still required?

 

[NoQuarter]

I imagine it has to not have head ports - there is no internal PCV-related apparatus.

Filippo

I am unclear on this as well. Does this mean the VC blocks the ports so they are not an issue, OR, are the ports now open directly into the VC?

 

[The Convert]

In one of the first replies, M18 specifically states that they recommend blocking the ports off in the cylinder head. Also, if you look at the images of the VC, there are no ports drilled into the M18 VC. They recommend plugging the head ports to prevent higher boost getting into that small cavity/space in the stock VC gasket to help prevent gasket failures.

 

[BOosted 335i]

In one of the first replies, M18 specifically states that they recommend blocking the ports off in the cylinder head. Also, if you look at the images of the VC, there are no ports drilled into the M18 VC. They recommend plugging the head ports to prevent higher boost getting into that small cavity/space in the stock VC gasket to help prevent gasket failures.

If I ever remove my valve cover I would plug the head ports but let's say if running a vtt cap breather,is it safe to say that capping the ports may not be needed?

 

[Torgus]

yup, block the ports.

 

[M18.racing]

Yes its easy , just make sure you drill and tap not just insert a tap in to uneven cast hole.

Sorry for the crapy video

 

[Rob@RBTurbo]

Yes its easy , just make sure you drill and tap not just insert a tap in to uneven cast hole.

Sorry for the crapy video

My $.02 is to don't tap like this video.

A minor hand tap using 10-32 plugs works very nicely (no pre-drilling is required). You only have to tap down just over 1/4" and use stubby plugs (we use 3/16" length 10-32 plugs). Anyway there is no need to tap all the way through or even remotely deep down for any reason, and having threads only far enough down allow the 10-32 set screw plugs to bottom out on the non-tapped portion of the port... an installed plug at flush or slightly below the head surface is fine.

Rob

 

[M18.racing]

My $.02 is to don't tap like this video.

A minor hand tap using 10-32 plugs works very nicely (no pre-drilling is required). You only have to tap down just over 1/4" and use stubby plugs (we use 3/16" length 10-32 plugs). Anyway there is no need to tap all the way through or even remotely deep down for any reason, and having threads only far enough down allow the 10-32 set screw plugs to bottom out on the non-tapped portion of the port... an installed plug at flush or slightly below the head surface is fine.

Rob

Whats the negative side of tapping this way ? Longer thread and longer screws holds better ? and not breaking the tap ?

 

[Rob@RBTurbo]

Whats the negative side of tapping this way ? Longer thread and longer screws holds better ? and not breaking the tap ?

As long as the screw has a few threads deep, it'll be far beyond fine. Also far less mess than tapping down a couple inches. You can recommend as you wish, was simply putting in my $.02 as the vid seems to be much more invasive than necessary.

 

[Torgus]

My $.02 is to don't tap like this video.

A minor hand tap using 10-32 plugs works very nicely (no pre-drilling is required). You only have to tap down just over 1/4" and use stubby plugs (we use 3/16" length 10-32 plugs). Anyway there is no need to tap all the way through or even remotely deep down for any reason, and having threads only far enough down allow the 10-32 set screw plugs to bottom out on the non-tapped portion of the port... an installed plug at flush or slightly below the head surface is fine.

Rob

Rob, I used your full PCV kit w/ the plugs and it was perfect. I would recommend it to anyone.

I did mine with the hand tap method and it worked out fine, no drilling required. Having more threads deep or a longer fastener really does not matter especially if you use loctite or RTV on the the threads, they are not going to back out. I used loctite on the plug and then a dab of RTV on top but I am sure it would seal without the RTV. Belt and suspenders if you will. The RTV had a few newly cut threads to engage in as well as the plug tool recess so I am sure it is not going anywhere.

The only issue I can see with the video method is your are going to generate more metal bits, chips, cuttings, shavings, etc. when you drill farther down vs. just using the hand tap. When I hand tapped very very little was generated. If you don't collect this debris it goes into your combustion chamber, if I recall correctly, so the less you make the better.

 

[Rob@RBTurbo]

I did mine this way and it worked out fine, no drilling required. Having more threads deep or a longer fastener really does not matter especially if you use loctite or RTV on the the threads, they are not going to back out. I used loctite on the plug and then a dab of RTV on top. Belt and suspenders. The RTV had a few threads to engage in so I am sure it is not going anywhere.

The only issue I can see with the video method is your are going to generate more metal bits, chips, cuttings, shavings, etc. when you drill vs. just using the hand tap. When I hand tapped very very little.

Hundreds of ways to skin a cat. Some will say, JB Weld. Some TIG. Some hammer and nails. Some full length screws. After dealing with questions/concerns with customers for several years on this, most will not be comfortable with that mess into the intake ports and some will be looking for ways around it especially if they don't want to remove the intake. Lots of OCD in this community, usually in the forum lurker crowd, just saying the way we suggest is the cleanest method to do it... and very easy and effective and takes only a few minutes per port. Not trying to argue but this suggestion could save M18 tons of emails going forward, so take it FWIW.

 

[M18.racing]

Hundreds of ways to skin a cat. Some will say, JB Weld. Some TIG. Some hammer and nails. Some full length screws. After dealing with questions/concerns with customers for several years on this, most will not be comfortable with that mess into the intake ports and some will be looking for ways around it especially if they don't want to remove the intake. Lots of OCD in this community, usually in the forum lurker crowd, just saying the way we suggest is the cleanest method to do it... and very easy and effective and takes only a few minutes per port. Not trying to argue but this suggestion could save M18 tons of emails going forward, so take it FWIW.

You right I just wanted to share maybe its over kill but im running 37psi+ did not want to relay on 2 rows of thread and some locktite . Did not have problem with shavings falling in.