Whats up guys, I just got the single shotgun installed last week. I see these posts all the time asking about the shotgun kit, and when i was debating if I should go PI or stay DI I wished there was more information, so I'm doing my part to share some information to help anyone else make their decision easier.
So i made the jump last week, my mechanic told me the install process was pretty crazy, instructions provided by VTT wasn't the best, and there were minor modifications needs. I am running Fuel It 650, Fuel It upgraded fuel lines, and Ethanol Sensor. Eberyones install might be a little different depending on what you are already running. I don't know the specifics of what my mechanic needed to do, but it wasn't anything major. Just some cutting here and there to make things work. I'm still in the process of getting some tuning done with Trebila, this log is the 3rd revision, on Map 3 on E80(according to the analyzer) you can see the HPFP start to hit it's limit towards the end. There's still a lot of tuning to go, but i thought id share this log now, we will be switching to Map 6 next and increasing boost to see where it goes from here. Also when i strat my car in the morning, the car kinda stutters before it starts, maybe from the fuel having to make its way through the extra fuel lines? I'm not sure, but thats my only gripe so far, I emailed Chris at VTT but he had no solution.
https://datazap.me/u/lazyxwizard/shotgun-3rd-log?log=0&data=1-4
Also when i strat my car in the morning, the car kinda stutters before it starts, maybe from the fuel having to make its way through the extra fuel lines?
I have the same problem actually, I noticed some of my LTFT are off by quite a bit so I'm going to reset lamba adaptations and check again otherwise I've got to figure out whats wrong there first. Also, what does 14 mean for rail pressure on a jb4 log? 14x100?
My HPFP has about 3k on it at most, but it is a rebuilt HPFP from FCP EuroNo cutting is required for the shotgun install -remember, not all shops are up to the task -not always easy to find a good shop. As to the hot-restart issue, you need to figure out what cards you're playing with, i.e. how old is your pump, did you replace it, etc. I'd expect more fuel pressure than I'm seeing in that log... something is up.
It's not just about safety, it's about performance, efficiency, and quality as well. The automotive industry moved from a carburetor to throttle body injection because TBI was better all around than the carb. We moved from TBI to port injection because PI was all around better. And we moved from PI to direct injection because DI is all around better.
And just like the PI revolution...where people couldn't figure it out for the longest....and they went back to carburetors. We are experiencing the same exact thing now. DI is better, but people are having trouble figuring it all out, so right now reverting back to PI (that we understand and can control) is the stop gap solution. And there's nothing really wrong with that, but lets all be honest about it. We aren't using PI because it is the better solution. We are using PI because we don't have full control of DI yet.
Also when i strat my car in the morning, the car kinda stutters before it starts, maybe from the fuel having to make its way through the extra fuel lines? I'm not sure, but thats my only gripe so far, I emailed Chris at VTT but he had no solution.
https://datazap.me/u/lazyxwizard/shotgun-3rd-log?log=0&data=1-4
You can have full control over di but its costly through syvecs don't we ?
The perfect solution for di and pi and with all safety in place.
Haven't had a chance to play with one yet, I should have one by September if everything goes right.
But adjustable launch control is what I want and having full control over the engine is going to be awesome.
But adjustable launch control is what I want and having full control over the engine is going to be awesome.
Whats up guys, I cant make a decision on which kind of aux fueling I want to go with and its driving me nuts! My car will be running a VIE top mount with a Garrett GTX 3582R gen 2 1.06AR and my goal is 700WHP or so. I will be staying stock motor and Dont want to risk blowing it so therefore probably only running 27-28psi max.
I have never seen someone run the GTX3582R gen 2 on an N54 so not sure how much power to expect at 27-28 PSI. Im hoping the 1.06AR gets me some extra power up top but once again im not sure. I could see it making anywhere from high 600's to low 700's at the wheels.
I will be going with a dw400 pump for the LPFP, and I will be going full flash with boostbox. Now Im trying to decide if I want to add PI or go with a shotgun (single or double).
Single shotgun:
- costs slightly less than PI when u factor in the price of PI + controller.
- could probably supply my WHP goal when on e50 ish fuel and being fed by the dw400 lpfp.
- is safer than PI
- my local e85 pump has both 93 and e85 at the same pump, so mixing is not a huge deal.
- on the downside it could cause my hpfp to go out quickly, but im not too worried about that since I could take the FCP euro route on the next hpfp.
Double Shotgun:
- can supply my WHP goal with full e85 (a bit more convenient that mixing and perhaps a bit safer with being higher octane than say e50 at 700whp?)
- is safer than PI
- downside is the price is hella expensive and it needs a controller for hpfp which if ive buying a aic6 controller anyways I feel like i may as well just go port injection
Port Injection:
- can support my WHP goal on full e85
- said to be unsafe and risky due to PI controllers not being that great
- priced decently for a set up that can run full e85 at 700whp (much cheaper than double shotgun)
Whats everyone's opinion and how likely am I reach my goal with a dw400, single shotgun, and E50?
That's a 67mm turbo 85lbs/min. Ive seen a Honda f20c (s2000 motor) make 900whp on that turbo even though it has a small 68mm turbine wheel. It's more then enough turbo for 700whp. I would just get a single barrel run e48 to hit 700whp. A clean easy setup and DME remains in full control.
it has a 66mm compressor wheel inducer, and a 62mm exhaust wheel inducer, so I guess its technically a 66mm. and wow, I did not know it was that capable in the s2k crowd.. its listed as 850hp capable; not sure if that is crank of whp, but from my research their are some 2JZ guys who make low 800's to the wheels on this turbo when turned up pretty high (over 30 PSI) on a 3L stock motor. I know its a good amount turbo of, but Im only gonna turn it up to 27/28psi or so cause I dont want to blow my motor, so who
Its Arizona here, been over 100 degrees with a low in the 70's and I'm running E54, so I don't think that is what is going on here. In actual cold temps with high ethanol content, yes. But not in the summer.the lazy cold start is totally normal on e85
HOLY SHIT!!You'll be fine you don't need 27-28psi to hit 650whp. You'll hit that number at 22-23 on e85 and you'll have room to push it. Here's the s2000 Dyno I was talking about.
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