How are you getting these oils temps? I have factory oil cooler and MHD sport mode for coolant temp.
I sit at 240°F without even trying.
K&P Engineering High Performance Stainless Steel Micronic Oil Filter
- Thread starter Jeffman
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How are you getting these oils temps? I have factory oil cooler and MHD sport mode for coolant temp.
I sit at 240°F without even trying.
Me too it's been 95 to 100 past few days and just one pull to 160 on way home has me at 245 to 250 my car stays solid their never goes higher but gets to 240 very quick, I'm on stock tables now , when i was on sport i sat closer to 220 to 230 but spirited driving still brought me to 245 to 250 so id rather boil all the crap out of my oil.
I also bought the fin cap cause i wanted a metal one and bought the stainless filter out of curiosity plus I'm looking to upgrade my oil cooler so if i can offset the drop in flow i like the idea i think this filter with bypass setup would be best but for performance driving i wouldn't be able to go over 5k intervals. I had a bypass filtet setup on a diesel pickup that was cool but i wasn't who installed it
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I have the Dinan oil Cooler, Dinan Intercooler, upgraded cfs aluminum radiator. MHD normal coolant option.
This is coolant, not oil temps. Oil temps should be nominal 238°F and maxed out WOT 248°F heavy traffic.
VT.
Got it... That makes more sense to me.
I also like the idea for this filter and the pressure reduction. Not sure if it means anything but it hits the "good idea" spot.
I also like the idea for this filter and the pressure reduction. Not sure if it means anything but it hits the "good idea" spot.
Are you having difficulty getting up to temp and if your auto what are you tranny temps i know some have posted that they have issues getting up to temp even with stock thermostat.
With a propulsive dynamics transmission and deleted stock heat exhange replaced with setrab cooler and fans, it takes considerably longer to get up to transmission temps. I just drive normal for longer until temps get up to 135 and over.
Normal temps for ATF for me with my setup are 165F to 179F nominal and 185 to 195F under traffic and heavy driving.
I noticed a performance increase the first time I did an engine flush and then changed oil and filter first for 100 miles then another oil change plus a can of ceratec after the 100 miles. The car felt more responsive and smoother and I got better gas mileage.
I have done ceratec at every change from that point but this time I will not use it and only do a change with normal bmw oil with this fancy filter and finned cap. We will see if any improvements are gained.
It is not scientific at all but I have this tiny suspicion that ceratec is not good to use at every oil change...just a hunch after a whole year of using it. I don't know if it's related to spark plugs or sensors...but something is afoot...after this oil change I will record the entire interval including temps, mpg, and any faults.
Anyone using anything and having long term experience with the product is welcomed data. We get so many people jumping after a new oil change and saying miraculous things that could not possibly be proven because they just changed it and haven't recorded any differences. So I look forward to your acute observations after an entire interval. If the oil is good and you notice better temps and/or smoother revs or response, I will gladly switch to it. Looking forward to your records.
@barry@3DM , if I recall, ran it in Grand Am. Lots of teams did, even rebottling it in sponsor-labeled bottles
. If I recall correctly he saw 20 degree temp differences. Glad to report when I switch.Filippo
@barry@3DM , if I recall, ran it in Grand Am. Lots of teams did, even rebottling it in sponsor-labeled bottles
Filippo
I got distracted and decided to youtube motul...after a shit load of videos, it seems that their claims are very high. I would be interested in doing an engine flush, then bmw oil with regular filter, drive for one tank of gas, then change oil to motul with the new fancy pants filter and the finned cap.
They say it is expensive compared to the bmw oil...which is already expensive. And they say you have to change oil in 3k miles...like in the old days. Damn...talk about a money pit growing even deeper with these cars.
Another alternative, just do a LiquiMoly Engine Flush - add to your existing oil right before your oil change, follow instructions: https://www.amazon.com/Liqui-Moly-2037-Pro-Line-Engine/dp/B00CR3RXTO/
<updated from 300V which does not have detergent packages most would want for street cars. For regular use suggest the following>
https://www.motul.com/us/en-US/products/8100-x-cess-5w40
Filippo
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I ordered a set from FCP Euro...that's the last MOTUL set I have to buy... I totally forgot they also have lifetime warranty for oils as long as you pack it in the original cans. Woohooo!!! Not only that, but I also got my 'BMW Flush Set' for only shipping cost because I found my original FCP euro invoice for the original bmw oil kit I ordered last year. So I am only paying for the Motul and getting a free kit of the bmw oil...problem solved.
Oh, I also used LM Engine Flush multiple times and I really see that it does work in cleaning the engine. So this time, definitely doing a final flush and then one tank of gas with new bmw oil and stock filter...then changing over to Motul and fancy pants metal filter and finned cap. Yeeeehaaaw!!! I dudn't lost my damn mind all up in here!
Too bad your not driving a Mustang GT 5.0 ... this oil change would give you +35hp
Filippo
Probably even more on the Coyote, those things can smoke any LS2JZ straight from the factory bro!
All joking aside, I really wish oil-related things weren't the weakest point of my car knowledge. I've been doing more reading on it all in the past year than the rest of my life combined but there's so much information with a lot of it conflicting or being anecdotal that it makes the already convoluted tuning scenes even more annoying sometimes lol. I'm inclined to agree that the finned oil cap won't do much of anything for cooling (although I'd also like one for convenience sake) and really have no idea on why a filter like this wouldn't be used on high performance applications if it was as good as claimed, but I'm open to and hoping to be wrong.
Well.... That are used in high performance applications. Just often not is street driven cars.
I got the finned cap for the durability and look. I don't expect any temperature difference at all. I hope to see some engine revving and response difference though from the steel filter and motul oil. I will definite report so you will see at least two reviews of motul of soon.
I’ve never used an engine flush and looked up what’s in them. According to the material safety data sheet (MSDS) for an LM flush product, it’s like 60-100% C10-C13 Alkane solvent with a few additives. So you’re basically adding 500cc gasoline to your engine for 10 minutes to thin out and dissolve the gunk before doing an oil change. Brilliant!
Yep. And it works great. Just make sure to change oil then drive with new oil then change oil a second time. Otherwise the oil from one post cleanse procedure will be contaminated from remnant LM Engine Flush and will break down too soon for safe full interval.
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