The VRSF outlets will fit if you chop off the rear "leg" where it mounts to the rear turbo comp outlet, and replace it with a suitable 90-deg silicone bend. After my outlet supplier screwed me over (despite having tooling and prototypes made up) I am frantically rushing to have fabricated SS outlets made, plus I know Barry@3DM is working on something similar. will definitely be keeping y'all posted.
I will have more info in am and will take it from their if a 90 degree elbow will do it and the elbow wont be deformed I may do that otherwise I'll just have custom ones made j bacon i can see how much the fabricator wants to make more than one they are very good the shop was actually recommended by Omar as they literally are famous on the Subaru evo and gtr platforms world wide.
Ps I was under impression the vrsf were longer 1.75 I'd I have to measure in am.
Once again you were right . It's like you cheat and have crystal ball. I tried getting a hydra outlet but he only had three and the outlets I had were supposed to work so I didn't want be selfish.Well our solution is not in hand yet, but I'm feeling a little better about @barry@3DM firing up the welder on the stainless pipe and Y collector. We're still waiting on parts are our pipe wizards TIG the stainless Y collector to order.
Sorry to hear about the woes, guys. I know Omar's silicone is not quite ready yet. Does @Rob@RBTurbo's work with this setup? I'd prefer that over MPP if possible.
Filippo
Hahahaha ... no crystal ball. Hey my car is not on the road cranking the new setup yet. I've never met a well thought out plan that didn't run smack into reality. Just wait when my chassis is split from the drivetrain, it's up in the air, and @barry@3DM and I actually figure out what is ACTUALLY going to happen lol ... I'll be wincing on a thread somewhere, I'm sure .Once again you were right . It's like you cheat and have crystal ball.
The fabricator is going to make a 1.75 so that nothing touches frame and makes noise plus might not need that flat spot like on the PSP and others I asked him about group buy he said once jig made will be cheaper and he will lat me know but mine is 400 so obviously the others will be cheaper. He should have price shortly so lmk who wants so I can tell how many. The shop in Stratford Connecticut is the place they were on Norwalk just moved bigger place and been in business over 30 yrs.
If you have the diagonal fmic inlet like I do on my ade 650 then you have alot of prob for the front turbo connection I don't know about others but either way it will prob rattle cause will be touching frame rail.
It does seem simple but I like sticking with what is recommended and the guy that made the turbos says 1.75 od is the best size I gonna stick with that. Everyone agrees that 2 inch is too big and 1.5 is little tight for these cause they are slightly bigger than 1.5 Id but Omar explained that it is so short their is no drag so a 1.5 snout will want a slightly bigger pipe. Also from everything i know and every guy that designs this stuff agrees a step from 1.5 straight to 2 with no bellmouth or flange destroys flow.
No prob he said by TuesdayI want one. Let me know how much total and shipped and if anything else is needed to make it fit (couplers, how many, what size).
How long are we looking at for production so I can schedule my install?
Really appreciate the legwork on this man.
What would a 1.75 od or Id be ? I can't see it being too small when vtt is 1.5 inch and it's a short distance before merge . They run serious power on their outlets and the Id is about 1.5 inch on turbo thankyou fillipo for those measurements while I was on road btw2" OD is not too big for the HP800. Each HP800 flows about 500-525cfm (36-38lbs/min) at there max flow capacity.
The area of a 2" 6061-T6 Al pipe with 0.063" wall thickness is 2.77sq.in.
At 500cfm flow for this given area (2.77sq.in) the airspeed is about 295mph = 0.38mach
You want to select a pipe that is between 0.35 and 0.42mach. Therefore a 2" OD pipe with a wall thickness of 0.063" is perfect.