Engine building tips
- Thread starter Kenjermen
- Start date
Until I get my tune dialed it hard to say. But it's single scroll and spools about the same as top mount twin scrolls or pretty close. I'd say that a twin scroll bottom mount would be the best option for spool. It's just a matter of getting it to fit with a good manifold design.
Ya I got nitrous just haven't been able to use it yet, I've been debating getting a smaller one for daily driving
I would love to take it off your hands if I had the $$$ and if I want in the middle of a rebuild
If I was waiting for a great deal to pop up to build a shortblock, would you guys recommend looking for just a bare block and crank or a complete short block?
I would do a complete short block, you can reuse majority of the parts of wanted.
For those looking for the torque on the ARP head studs
http://www.raceeng.com/c-6617-n54b30-hardwarefasteners.aspx
http://www.raceeng.com/c-6617-n54b30-hardwarefasteners.aspx
O I forgot to mention on here, there was a split production in 2009 with the crank and fly wheel. The old style where a 8 bolt style and they switched to a 6 bolt style which is currently used on the n55 as well
I would be very very very very careful with this info. If those are the "N54" ARP studs most shops are selling, the 11mm Studs are too short, and do not go all the way down into the block. With this issue, trying to put 82 ft/lbs on them. The odds are decent you are going to pull the the threads out of the block, which will ruin your day.
Just an FYI, we have never once had a head gasket issue, and we do 75 ft/lbs on the PROPER LENGTH 11mm Arp studs, and 50 on the 9mm studs.
I will say it again if using the shorter chrysler studs they sell as N54, put 82ft/lbs on them at your own risk.
ARP would make the right length for the N54 if they made them. The ARP studs out there for the "N54" are ARP studs from other motors. "Chrysler"
