I believe @Tony@VargasTurboTech and @AD-ENG sell custom made arp head studs made specifically for our engine.
Engine building tips
- Thread starter Kenjermen
- Start date
Um what? We sell the correct length studs that need no custom "block work" where that information came from is anyones guess. We have 3 sets in stock right now. $399 a set. These have the correct length 11mm studs, and the correct 9mm studs, with all nuts. You reuse your factory washers.
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It can easily be done by hand. The custom dowel pin is made to remain the original outside diameter, but allow an 11mm stud to pass through the i.d.
This keeps you from having to machine new dowel pin holes that would require precision and tight tolerance to get right.
Simply drill the four holes in the head and drill and tap the four 9mm threads out to 11mm...done
I had this issue on early engines and the people selling me the "n54" kit didn't even know. We found the issue really quick and now use proper studs that we comfortably torque to 85ftlbs without issue.
@Tony@VargasTurboTech sells the complete kit for oem fitment (11mm x 10 and 9mm x 4) and I only sell a "ALL Large Stud" kit (11mm x 14 with custom dowel pins).
Word of advice, buy your parts (or at least get advice) from the guys that are ACTUALLY hands-on. Stop buying from the guys that just retail unknown parts or sell products based on price/margin; not quality or performance.
Little update got the car running on Tuesday. Now just got a solve the random stalling out problem caused by the 5bar map sensor but currently working on that with @AD-ENG and ken @WedgePerformance they have been great with response time and help
Thinking about getting a forged N55 any tips on where to buy the motor for my 2011 135i M Sport Manual Coupe? This is going to be my daily car and looking to push around 450whp. The motor is shot from the previous owner fucking up the motor. I am in a spot where I can replace the motor with a forged or low milage used stock motor any advice?
Then you have no need to do anything extra, a stock N55 can take that.
I agree with @doublespaces. If you only plan to have that much power. you could find a nice low mile engine and save a few grand from building the current engine (if it is even useable) and maybe use that money for other modifications!
Agreed, but if you do want to go higher in the future I recommend doing it now to save some time. Best advice I got from a buddy build the eng first then work out to other supporting mods before going big. It will save you money and time
No doubt. But remember, most people don't make a lot of power. These cars can get expensive quick.
Little update I've been battling boost pressure faults and throttle faults here lately. Going to spend a lot of time in the shop next week to get this sorted out. @WedgePerformance has been great throughout this and helping me figure out all the bugs. Running a 5bar map sensor has been a huge pain but will be worth it once everything is all figured out. After this the big goal is to pass the dreaded smog check then break the engine in some more, then I can finally start tuning and getting this thing race ready.
Some excellent info in this thread and great to see people chasing 4 digits. Are you guys using Darton sleeves or something else to address the open deck?
One point I've noticed is that the websites selling built engines usually include forged pistons but with rods as an optional extra. I read a while back that Tony from VTT said he saw quite a few motors with bent rods when opened up. I'm wondering if it is worthwhile building my motor with forged rods and keeping stock pistons if they're in good shape. My goal being 700hp
One point I've noticed is that the websites selling built engines usually include forged pistons but with rods as an optional extra. I read a while back that Tony from VTT said he saw quite a few motors with bent rods when opened up. I'm wondering if it is worthwhile building my motor with forged rods and keeping stock pistons if they're in good shape. My goal being 700hp
most of the failures I have seen on forums have either ringland failure and when opened up rods were also bent. for how long? who knows, many times nobody knew until something else fails. with that being said, itd be stupid to do one without the other
no dart and sleeve and i left it a open block for now, i did go with forged rods and i recommend if your doing the pistons might as well due the rods especially due to everything following to the path of least resistance and youll most likely be opening the engine again and putting rods in, always better to be safe then sorry.
