DOC Race N54 Intake Manifold Released
- Thread starter doublespaces
- Start date
I'm not a tuner, but what would a tuner play with? My only concern is that dyno time gets expensive if I need to remote tune the car. I'll ask Wedge what he thinks about it, he's my current tuner for my JB4/MHD backend flash.
As far as the funding, I don't want to be "that guy". I figure this thread is a qualified spot to ask because it's about the product itself. If you know of anyone else that'd be interested in the data, feel free to ask them.
For those of you who are interested in this data, send $10 via PayPal to [email protected] or click this link: https://paypal.me/bimmerstreet
I can't wait to receive the manifold
Sent you 50$ via Paypal to help get this done.
Received... awesome. A few more small donations and dyno time will be covered. I can't wait to see back-to-back results.
Let's get a list of people before we send the cash so you don't have to send it back if we don't hit the number. $10 is small money to save me or anyone else 2k+ on a manifold.
1) Torgus $10
2) LoBoost $50 <--Big fucking baller right here folks. If more than 7 sign up maybe he can get some money back. Just a thought forum.
3)
5)
6)
7)
Total: $60
Needed: $100
I assumed you would want to retune or try and run more boost as the restriction of the stock intake manifold should not exist anymore and now your head is the least flowing object in the intake path. You certainly don't have to retune and you should see some gains, as is, because of the better flowing IM. I think peak gains would be from a retune which again, would help sell the product the best for DR. Like if you built the head no reason not to retune. I could be wrong.
1) Torgus $10
2) LoBoost $50 <--Big fucking baller right here folks. If more than 7 sign up maybe he can get some money back. Just a thought forum.
3)
5)
6)
7)
Total: $60
Needed: $100
I assumed you would want to retune or try and run more boost as the restriction of the stock intake manifold should not exist anymore and now your head is the least flowing object in the intake path. You certainly don't have to retune and you should see some gains, as is, because of the better flowing IM. I think peak gains would be from a retune which again, would help sell the product the best for DR. Like if you built the head no reason not to retune. I could be wrong.
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You skipped #4 in your list, lol. We only need 4 more people.
I already made 749whp @ 29psi, so I don't think I'll be pushing more boost. But I would love to do back to back comparisons at 2 or 3 different boost levels. Moderate and higher. See what the differences are.
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I'm not a tuner, but what would a tuner play with? My only concern is that dyno time gets expensive if I need to remote tune the car. I'll ask Wedge what he thinks about it, he's my current tuner for my JB4/MHD backend flash.
As far as the funding, I don't want to be "that guy". I figure this thread is a qualified spot to ask because it's about the product itself. If you know of anyone else that'd be interested in the data, feel free to ask them.
For those of you who are interested in this data, send $10 via PayPal to [email protected] or click this link: https://paypal.me/bimmerstreet
I can't wait to receive the manifold
Sent my $10 in
1) Torgus $10
2) LoBoost $50 <--Big fucking baller right here folks. If more than 7 sign up maybe he can get some money back. Just a thought forum.
3) Abacus38 $10
4)
5)
6)
Total: $70
Needed: $100
7) $10 back to Loboost
8) $10 back to Loboost
9) $10 back to Loboost
10) $10 back to Loboost
I paid my $10.
$30 more bucks guys, and we should really have enough people to send LoBoost $40 back.
Don't cheap out.
2) LoBoost $50 <--Big fucking baller right here folks. If more than 7 sign up maybe he can get some money back. Just a thought forum.
3) Abacus38 $10
4)
5)
6)
Total: $70
Needed: $100
7) $10 back to Loboost
8) $10 back to Loboost
9) $10 back to Loboost
10) $10 back to Loboost
I paid my $10.
$30 more bucks guys, and we should really have enough people to send LoBoost $40 back.
Don't cheap out.
The tracking number I received now shows that my manifold is in the hands of UPS (an origin scan in Johnson City, TN)
Also in. Support Spence “To science”!
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Payment received, we're up to $80 now!
Just checked tracking and my manifold will be here tomorrow
Why do you need to have an identical build to me. You're such a poser. I hate you and your face.Payment received, we're up to $80 now!
Just checked tracking and my manifold will be here tomorrow
Seriously though, mine will be here today or tomorrow too, can't wait! lol
Just talked to John and he said he wasn't able to get these. He told me a while ago that he was going to, but he said they were harder to get than he thought. He advised that the wires might have to be extended. I'll share my installation process with you guys to let you know what needs to be done.
1) Torgus $10
2) LoBoost $50 <--Big fucking baller right here folks. If more than 7 sign up he can get some money back(which he should)
3) Abacus38 $10
4) 335is02 $10
5)
6)
Total: $80
Needed: $100
7) $10 back to Loboost
8) $10 back to Loboost
9) $10 back to Loboost
10) $10 back to Loboost
Extending wires correctly isn't exactly hard, it just takes time. Highly recommend crimping and using a weather proof splice vs. soldering.
Shame they didn't make a harness for it. Given the cost of everything else I am sure people would pay $50 bucks for a nice clean solution.
2) LoBoost $50 <--Big fucking baller right here folks. If more than 7 sign up he can get some money back(which he should)
3) Abacus38 $10
4) 335is02 $10
5)
6)
Total: $80
Needed: $100
7) $10 back to Loboost
8) $10 back to Loboost
9) $10 back to Loboost
10) $10 back to Loboost
Extending wires correctly isn't exactly hard, it just takes time. Highly recommend crimping and using a weather proof splice vs. soldering.
Shame they didn't make a harness for it. Given the cost of everything else I am sure people would pay $50 bucks for a nice clean solution.
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Thanks for the update Spence. And agree torgus it’s not hard just want that clean look like you said if it is needed.
Got mine today. Couldn't help but to set it on top of the stock manifold to get an idea of what it'll look like! The silver matches the turbo compressor housing perfectly. Gonna take a sanding pad to the logo eventually. Charge pipe and port injection is coming tomorrow.
Subscribe for a first impressions video on my YouTube channel, eventually followed by a complete installation DIY and back-to-back dyno results with and without the manifold.
http://youtube.com/jakespence135
Subscribe for a first impressions video on my YouTube channel, eventually followed by a complete installation DIY and back-to-back dyno results with and without the manifold.
http://youtube.com/jakespence135
Why crimp an extension over soldering an extension? Ignoring any weatherproofing, a crimp can get corrosion while the connection inside a solder joint will not. I have a project going on now that requires exactly this and it never occured to me that a crimp butt splice is better than interlacing stranded wire and making a solid connection???
I worked in a wire manufacturing house in another life. I know more about correctly crimping contacts than I ever wanted to. I've also soldered a shit ton and know it's weaknesses. I've had audio shops solder contacts and have them fall apart in my hand. Why an audio shop would solder a fine conductor large gauge wire when is was in a compression contact is beyond me. They tend to not be the smartest people. Here today gone tomorrow type of businesses, I digress.
If you shouldn't solder 750 kcmil than you shouldn't solder 12 gauge. The principal is exactly the same. The only time to solder is when the connector forces you to and SMB PCBs etc.
I could make a post that would take me hours to write over why crimping is better than soldering. But I'll make it brief unless I end up having more time at work today. A quick google I came up with this:
ABYC (E-11.16.3.7), “Solder shall not be the sole means of mechanical connection in any circuit”. Further, crimping provides a solid mechanical connection resistant to “cold joints” breaking under fatigue, and removes strain.
Crimping will make a better electrical connection. You can google cut aways of the contacts comparing solder vs. crimp.
It is difficult to verify how far up the wire solder has traveled under the insulation. The issue here is vibration. The solder makes the physical connection weaker and in a vibration environment: aviation, navel, automotive, etc. crimping is superior.
Flux residues can cause corrosion. No Flux solder sucks.
http://www.pinrepair.com/connect/
The crimp method is the most popular because:
- There is no need for soldering; therefore, installation time is reduced.
- It takes an experienced technician about 15 seconds to install a crimp-crimp connector, thereby greatly reducing the time required to create cable assemblies. This is very important in today's cabling market where time is of the essence and fewer technicians are being asked to maintain more and more equipment. Digital video, computer and network cabling is almost universally crimped today.
- Crimped connections, done correctly, are superior to soldered connections.
- A good crimped connection deforms the metal sufficiently past the yield point, but not too much, so that the "spring back" keeps the connection secure, even under thermal cycling (the coefficient of expansion of the two metals might be different) and vibration.
- A good crimp connection is gas tight and won't wick: it is sometimes referred to as a "cold weld".
- Like the solder method, it can be used on solid or stranded conductors, and provides a good mechanical and electrical connection.
- It takes more time to terminate than other methods.
- "Cold" solder joints can cause problems if the connector is not soldered properly to the cable, observing solder flow through the contact solder hole.
- Soldered joints between contact and center conductor can work harden if subjected to excessive vibration during use and develop micro-cracks followed by solder fatigue.
- Soldering can be inconsistent and subject to failure as a result of mechanical or temperature stresses.
- Care must be taken to control heat applied during the soldering process and not allow solder to wick or distort the cable dielectric
If a connection is solely soldered there'd be no mechanical connection, nothing to physically hold the connection in place other than the solder itself functioning as a metal "glue" which was not solder's intent.
Lead(Solder) is not as good a conductor as copper. The resistance of copper is 13 times less than lead so why introduce it into the circuit if not necessary? The crimp will be a copper connector and a copper wire and the crimp pressure with seal out air and moisture creating a low resistance connection
NASA-STD-8739.4 Crimps
NASA-STD-8739.3 Solder
The main difference you will see from these two doc's is that soldering is preferred for SMD. Cabling and interconnections is nearly 99% crimped. The main benefit from crimping is reputability and there is less room for error.
Do what you want obviously, but I crimp and my connections don't fail. You can always heat shrink tube over your crimped contact if you are really concerned. They make heat shrink with glue inside too. Again, a proper crimp is air/gas tight aka cold weld.
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At the professional competition level of motorsports, the standard method of wiring harness construction is splicing without applying solder for the exact reason Torgus said: susceptibility to vibration-induced fatigue failure. I would use an open-barrel splice and insulate each crimp with heat shrink. A special crimp tool will be required for open barrel splices, but the reliability is worth it compared to a throttle failure.
I like to use TE Connectivity open-barrel splices. Look for part numbers TE 62759-1 and TE 63130-2 (which size you use will depend on wire gauge). You should be able to find an open barrel crimp tool on Amazon for less than $25.
I like to use TE Connectivity open-barrel splices. Look for part numbers TE 62759-1 and TE 63130-2 (which size you use will depend on wire gauge). You should be able to find an open barrel crimp tool on Amazon for less than $25.
