Best aftermarket oil thermostat solution for N54?
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heyy RG long time no see... life's been hating me for the past half year or so that's why i kinda disappeared
thanks for the sizes! you got the same kit?
The mosselman kit? It says it houses a setrab 19 row. But for $750 that is no better off than any of the other existing kits available. We need something with good quality and a little cheaper IMO. Maybe the 500-600 dollar range.
I'm having a bracket made, too bad nobody makes one for a standard core of some kind.
heyy RG long time no see... life's been hating me for the past half year or so that's why i kinda disappeared
Yea man, you're still standing so cheers to that.
Nah, I typically think I'm clever and try to piece things together. Then look back and realize I spent twice as much time, cash, effort etc.
Hey man,
Hose and fittings are AN-8.
It's most certainly not the cheapest but the quality is second to none on this kit
Ive been using the ad-e with no issues at all.
the engine gets up to temp within 15 min and stays at or a tad under 110c all the time, never seen it go over that even when
at the track
the engine gets up to temp within 15 min and stays at or a tad under 110c all the time, never seen it go over that even when
at the track
Jeffman,
I plan to utilize the stock exchanger inline with a thermostat. As far as mounting goes, I plan to do it all custom.. I'll cardboard something together first for sizing/ fitment, then I'll attempt to weld something up.
I've been going back and forth whether to keep the stock heat exchanger inline.
Argument against keeping stock connected: in a race or spirited driving you are dumping even more heat from the ATF into the radiator.
Argument for keeping stock connected:
It'll help to heat up the ATF more quickly to operating temps. As-is, I see 20-25 minutes highway driving to see ATF reach coolant temps.
Argument against keeping stock connected: in a race or spirited driving you are dumping even more heat from the ATF into the radiator.
Argument for keeping stock connected:
It'll help to heat up the ATF more quickly to operating temps. As-is, I see 20-25 minutes highway driving to see ATF reach coolant temps.
Jeff,
Keep it in if room allows. Not for the reason that you hear parroted over and over. It is a safety threshold.
The car does not have a problem keeping coolant temps down with limited air flow, but it does have a problem keeping trans temps down during limited air flow. When you're in a low air flow situation and the heat exchanger starts using the coolant to cool the trans fluids, trans temps get pegged just above 200F. The coolant temps don't move so the "extra" heat from the trans fluid is a non issue. Even with the largest core that can be fit anywhere on the car, with limited air flow, the temp regulation is marginal. That's why you're seeing trans cooler fan installs pop up. Keep the heat exchanger.
Keep it in if room allows. Not for the reason that you hear parroted over and over. It is a safety threshold.
The car does not have a problem keeping coolant temps down with limited air flow, but it does have a problem keeping trans temps down during limited air flow. When you're in a low air flow situation and the heat exchanger starts using the coolant to cool the trans fluids, trans temps get pegged just above 200F. The coolant temps don't move so the "extra" heat from the trans fluid is a non issue. Even with the largest core that can be fit anywhere on the car, with limited air flow, the temp regulation is marginal. That's why you're seeing trans cooler fan installs pop up. Keep the heat exchanger.
The ade is a thermostat, it uses a thermostatic bimetal spring as it heats up it looses tension on the valve and lets oil pass through at a certain degree and closes as it gets cooler
Its an design from hydraulic valves and it works quite well
Ive been running one here in oz in our extreme summers with no issues
Its pretty awesome
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I've never, ever seen or heard of a bimetal spring thats coil wire is round.
Judging by the 4 attempts I made to get further info from Andy without a reply, it's obvious that he knows as well as I do that it's not a real thermostat at all.
Mine stays on 110c on the hwy no matter what temp
Done a nice run from bathurst at 2am in the morning with -3c outside and it sat nicely at 110c all the way
Done a nice run from bathurst at 2am in the morning with -3c outside and it sat nicely at 110c all the way
I can guarantee I don't have a problem with mine, I'm to anal about my car.
running around with 600hp any given day.
running around with 600hp any given day.
I mean ideally you want to delete the OEM unit and run a full bypass unit, like from Mocal, etc.
The one fromImproved is pretty nice as well but I ran the Mocal one opn my Rx-8 for a few years but now I run no thermostat (South Texas) at all, I just let it warm up before I take her out.
The one fromImproved is pretty nice as well but I ran the Mocal one opn my Rx-8 for a few years but now I run no thermostat (South Texas) at all, I just let it warm up before I take her out.
anyone can run any unit they like, no issue
But first step is to try the ad-e and see if it helps, you might not need or want because this is good enough for most of the masses
But if you want to go for the full hard core version, go for it.
But first step is to try the ad-e and see if it helps, you might not need or want because this is good enough for most of the masses
But if you want to go for the full hard core version, go for it.
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