Technical #4 Cylinder is dead…any ideas as to what caused the failure?
- Thread starter IQraceworks
- Start date
Well, I got my borescope down into the cylinder last night. The cylinder walls look great, not a scratch or mark in them that I could see. Is it possible that the problem could simply be just a broken ring, and not a ringland? Guess I will get a better look after I pull the motor apart.
At this point...am I better off to just throw a stock piston back in it, or is it worth the money to go ahead and use forged pistons? I'm assuming that woudl require some machien work to get the bores sized right?
At this point...am I better off to just throw a stock piston back in it, or is it worth the money to go ahead and use forged pistons? I'm assuming that woudl require some machien work to get the bores sized right?
Boring out and resleeveing the block is just to add strength...right? I'm assuming you can use forged pistons in the oem sleeved bores as long as you get them hones out for the correct tolerances? For 550-600hp, is sleeving really necessary?
Is this a good alternative to sleeving the block?
If one does this, is that enough change to need to retune knock sensors or is that mostly only needed if closing the deck?
I'd say if you drive your car normally no, Coolant temps get hotter cause of thisIs this a good alternative to sleeving the block?
Was this when you kept smacking rev limiter in the auto ?
Or am I confusing this with another engine you destroyed ?
So just to clarify things.....if I have my stock block, and the bores are in good shape, if I order a set of forged pistons....am I going to have to get the block bored/honed in get the proper clearance for the forged pistons, or do they machine the pistons so that when used with a stock bore block, no additional machining will need to be done in order to get the proper clearance? I know the forged pistons need more clearance than the stock cast ones. Any info would be great! Thanks!
do a leak down test already so your not speculating. Should of been step one. It’s likely a ring but why not know for sure. Step one should of been replacing your injectors tbh. You wouldn’t have been in this position. Or maybe less shit talking people on the ole inter webs
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I dumped a little oil down in the cylinder and the compression went from 55psi up to 120psi.......so that indicated it's a piston/ring issue. Right? If it was a valve, the added oil in the cylinder wouldn't have do a thing to the compression readings.
So which should have been step one ?
You have 2 listed ?
Shit talking ? You mean all the people that asked for help and he responded with things like set your car on fire ?
I guess I'm a little confused here.....
The entire process went like this.......
1. Car started idling rough.
2. I checked the injectors and found a leaky one and replaced it..... Didn’t fix the idle issue.
3. I replaced the plugs and coils for the hell of it....Didn't fix the idle issue.
4. I then did a compression test…found the dead cylinder.
5. I added oil to the cylinder and narrowed it down to a piston and/or ring issue (not a valvetrain issue)
I don't think the troubleshooting could have been any more thought out.
As far as shit talking and telling people to light their cars on fire…..you must have me confused with someone else. I really don't know what you are talking about
Apparently that is a different guy.
I guess we were wrong and should help him out then.
I swear his names In there. Hold upApparently that is a different guy.
I guess we were wrong and should help him out then.
Definitely him
Wait , is this him helping somebody else who asked for help at one point in time ? Sounds like a GREAT guy to the community.
