2009 E93 ADE Single Turbo Build
- Thread starter doublespaces
- Start date
Installed my xcarlink yesterday. Most videos and information out there is for the ccc version and I had to figure out some of it on my own for CIC. I ended up rerouting some of the cables so that it would fit properly.
I also went to the dyno today and did a baseline. Only modification is MHD on map 0. And SpoolStreet stickers.
Logs:
http://datazap.me/u/doublespaces/2009-e93-335i-mhd-stage-0?log=1&data=3-13-20
I also went to the dyno today and did a baseline. Only modification is MHD on map 0. And SpoolStreet stickers.
Logs:
http://datazap.me/u/doublespaces/2009-e93-335i-mhd-stage-0?log=1&data=3-13-20
Last edited:
Manifold looks beautiful, interested in the CCC retrofit thinking about doing the same but don't know enough about prices and what's required part-wise.
Backup camera works, just need to finalize the wiring. I am using the xcarlink backup camera override so I haven't tested the oem funcrionality, either way @Levanime coded it for me along with my alarm(which does work when I open the hood with it locked).
Also got my android box hooked up. There is a problem with how the 3.5mm jack mates with the rca cable adapter, will sort it out later. MHD and xHP Flashtool both seem to work:
And Kodi:
Also got my android box hooked up. There is a problem with how the 3.5mm jack mates with the rca cable adapter, will sort it out later. MHD and xHP Flashtool both seem to work:
And Kodi:
That is a proper intake manifold and it's made here in America for a double win.
I really don't know which is which haha whichever one you did here I guess, I've never had iDrive so I have little knowledge
Oh, you mean you're wanting to add iDrive. Well there are two types of iDrive, pre and post 2009. The pre 2009 models are CCC. The 2009 and on models have CIC. I had the CCC before, there are essentially no benefits to it. If you have the option, retrofit the CIC, IMO.
I made a thread on that here:
https://bmw.spoolstreet.com/threads/mhd-xhp-and-backup-cam-on-idrive-cic-or-ccc.1465/
I made a little progress, downpipes are out:
And here you can see a clear shot of the transmission heat exchanger, also where the where those CNC transmission cooler fittings go:
And here is the BMW PPKv2 auxiliary radiator which I'm having @omarmarji weld on some 8AN fittings and will repurpose it for the trans cooler. The good part about this, is the 335is ducts will snap right up to this unit and those ducts should connect to the MTech front bumper, so proper ducting will be retained and it will have a factory look without needing to fabricate any brackets, etc.
Improved Racing 165*F tstat with 8AN fittings:
I also test fitted the 335d snorkel, but its slightly too big for the front air duct, I'm talking to ECS to see if it is a manufacturing defect, but otherwise it fits fine, even with the stock oil cooler lines there:
Last edited:
So today I managed to test fit the ppk auxiliary radiator I'm repurposing as a transmission cooler, which is basically the equivalent of a setrab 19 row series 6 core. Once you've removed the headlights it is only a few more bolts to loosen the bumper support and radiator carrier. Between the carrier and the chassis there is a metal plate which has a plastic foot which the radiator sits on. This is what it looks like out of the car with the foot removed:
You can push in the clip and the foot will drop out of the bottom and the radiator will slump a bit. Now you can pull the bumper support and radiator carrier forward just enough to slide this metal plate off. Now you have to take the plastic nut/plug combo deal and stick it into the chassis from the outside. There is some rubber/plastic which covers this hole and it needs twisted pushed rear ward for it to pop in with the tab poking out the hole properly. You may need to reach your hand into the chassis from the front to help wiggle it into place. Now take the new radiator support plate with the new cooler arm and bolts and stick it on the chassis bolts. Here is a better shot of that process, though I had to take it back off to get the nut/plug thing in the chassis:
Situate the radiator inline with the support and snap the plastic foot back on while pushing the radiator up and supporting it again. Now you can secure the radiator carrier and bumper support.
From here it's pretty obvious you can bolt on the radiator. Once I get the AN fittings welded on I'll be able to see how I will route my thermostat and hosing.
Here is the part number to the support bracket, even though I found the bolts were too short: 51647154545
You can push in the clip and the foot will drop out of the bottom and the radiator will slump a bit. Now you can pull the bumper support and radiator carrier forward just enough to slide this metal plate off. Now you have to take the plastic nut/plug combo deal and stick it into the chassis from the outside. There is some rubber/plastic which covers this hole and it needs twisted pushed rear ward for it to pop in with the tab poking out the hole properly. You may need to reach your hand into the chassis from the front to help wiggle it into place. Now take the new radiator support plate with the new cooler arm and bolts and stick it on the chassis bolts. Here is a better shot of that process, though I had to take it back off to get the nut/plug thing in the chassis:
Situate the radiator inline with the support and snap the plastic foot back on while pushing the radiator up and supporting it again. Now you can secure the radiator carrier and bumper support.
From here it's pretty obvious you can bolt on the radiator. Once I get the AN fittings welded on I'll be able to see how I will route my thermostat and hosing.
Here is the part number to the support bracket, even though I found the bolts were too short: 51647154545
Were you a round 1 or round 2 beta tester? I was in round 2 but still haven't installed them yet waiting for the neoprene covers to ship (hopefully to prevent them from rusting). Just wondering if I might run into rubbing issues as well. What size tires do you have up front? I believe the strut bar issue was only for round 1.
Nice thread OP, don't mean to threadjack.
No problem. Why the rust worry? Wasn't there a salt spray test done to show corrosion resistance?
Because Canada. Steel shocks don't last here. The only reason I bought Mfactory's instead of stainless is because people who use neoprene covers have had good success with them. The Mfactory's are zinc coated and have 250 hour salt spray testing, but I'd rather just wait for the covers to know they are well protected. I wouldn't take advantage of the increased performance the coils would offer over stock suspension riding on Michelin X-ice in winter anyway.
