2009 E93 ADE Single Turbo Build
- Thread starter doublespaces
- Start date
Still need a ton of stuff.. Fuel pump, LSD, HSF-4, trans cooler, coilovers, wheels, bunch of small things like PCV kit, etc. I sold my ER oil cooler in favor of cooking one up myself, so I'll need to get that again.
Well I have a hoist, so I dropped the subframe & jacked up the front of the car. Subframe right out of the way would be better. But not needed.
Put in the coolant plug & oil Drain plug
When you install the manifold gaskets, its impossible not to damage them a bit. Might try to gently trim the inside a bit?
Install the heat shield. Next put your o2 sensors in the manifold. If you do it after its hard. Ask me how i know.
Next install your block oil supply fitting & line.
Next install your manifold with out the turbo. This is the toughest part of the whole job. You need a 11mm snap on 1/4 drive swivel socket. I also found a 11mm starter wrench handy.
Next install the turbo. you will need long a 7/32 ball Allen socket. I have a mac set, but you could get a cheap set & cut the angle off & then use use a 7/32 1/4 drive socket on the end.
Next do the exhaust end of the install. You can also install the water manifold. Block to thermostat.
Next install the turbo outlet to intercooler.
Next install the ADE motor mount to the block.
Next install the turbo oil drain line. Time to install the inlet assembly. Its tough, it is a really tight fit & it is collapsing my turbo to intercooler hose. There is just no room.
To be honest I have installed 3 sets of twins & the twins took me half the time. But Andy makes a really nice kit & is great with customer support.
Put in the coolant plug & oil Drain plug
When you install the manifold gaskets, its impossible not to damage them a bit. Might try to gently trim the inside a bit?
Install the heat shield. Next put your o2 sensors in the manifold. If you do it after its hard. Ask me how i know.
Next install your block oil supply fitting & line.
Next install your manifold with out the turbo. This is the toughest part of the whole job. You need a 11mm snap on 1/4 drive swivel socket. I also found a 11mm starter wrench handy.
Next install the turbo. you will need long a 7/32 ball Allen socket. I have a mac set, but you could get a cheap set & cut the angle off & then use use a 7/32 1/4 drive socket on the end.
Next do the exhaust end of the install. You can also install the water manifold. Block to thermostat.
Next install the turbo outlet to intercooler.
Next install the ADE motor mount to the block.
Next install the turbo oil drain line. Time to install the inlet assembly. Its tough, it is a really tight fit & it is collapsing my turbo to intercooler hose. There is just no room.
To be honest I have installed 3 sets of twins & the twins took me half the time. But Andy makes a really nice kit & is great with customer support.
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Going to have to ask for a ride to see if I am going to purchase this as well!Damn its been 2 months since I got this kit and sadly it is still hanging out in my garage. But I've been busy shopping:
More to come soon
- ~$1500 in a tool refresh, including Ingersoll Rand impact and wrench, bottle jack-jack stands, 3 ton aluminum jack, etc
- ADV Sensors from @CKI@Motiv
- Propulsive Dynamics upgraded trans - deposit paid from @Jason@Propulsive-Dynamics
- Signed up for a CF Driveshaft from @MFactory
- AD-E 1000hp FMIC, chargepipe from @AD-ENG
- EOS v2 Intake Manifold with Fuel injectors on bottom and Meth/nitrous bungs on top from @EOSpeed
- Boostbox from @MOTIV Motorsport
- Been planning out my complicated exhaust setup: Link
- Several electronics bits
- Contemplating M Sport conversion
Right in the centre front part of the trunk. Its just fits. I have a howerton twin tank. Don't know which tank you have. Can post a pic if it helps?
I have mounted to the pass thru panel. Yes your losing some trunk space & I had to make a hose to fill it.
But with the top down, the trunk is useless anyways. I use the back seat as my top is down most of the time I am driving the car.
Here's a couple of pics. Still lots of room.
I have to put the trunk divider in the down
Position & use a hose & funnel to fill it.
One of the things you put up with if you want a e93
But with the top down, the trunk is useless anyways. I use the back seat as my top is down most of the time I am driving the car.
I have to put the trunk divider in the down
Position & use a hose & funnel to fill it.
One of the things you put up with if you want a e93
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Pretty big build you got going on there.
About to get my VM kit installed soon as well.
Hoping to hear more updates from this thread!
About to get my VM kit installed soon as well.
Hoping to hear more updates from this thread!
Add YCW Reference Series coilovers to the list, just paid for them last night.
Also, here is my EOS v2 intake manifold back from the anodizer before it is shipped home to me. I have to use a reducer from 1/4" to 1/8" NPT as I made a mistake when ordering it like an idiot. Aside from that, this is a custom manifold made specifically for me, it has the stock airbox tabs shaved and some other weight savings modifications as well as fuel ports on bottom:
Also, here is my EOS v2 intake manifold back from the anodizer before it is shipped home to me. I have to use a reducer from 1/4" to 1/8" NPT as I made a mistake when ordering it like an idiot. Aside from that, this is a custom manifold made specifically for me, it has the stock airbox tabs shaved and some other weight savings modifications as well as fuel ports on bottom:
Wasn't a huge fan of the YCW coilovers.
Maybe it could've been that we were beta testers but the install was a bitch.
All their other products are great though.
Maybe it could've been that we were beta testers but the install was a bitch.
All their other products are great though.
The struts.. Not sure why the rear's are inverted either.
The knob to adjust the dampening on the bottom is kinda rusting already.
Also, the front strut requires you to put at least a 5mm spacer in the front or else the wheel will rub on it.
I'm not sure if they had a fix for the strut bar issue where they told others to drill a hole through the strut bar to fit the screw in where the camber plates go. I just left it..
I think there was a fix for the strut bar, not sure about the inversion or the rusting. I think they mentioned that inverting the struts was optional, and it may have something to do with adjustment access? Also, is it just the knob itself? That should be easily fixable?
