XClutch Twin Disk - Group Buy Feeler
- Thread starter BSimmi15
- Start date
Got my clutch installed. It is street-able but definitely not street-friendly. I got the organic version and I already feel it being to grabby. A smooth take-off is impossible, either slip the clutch and the whole car shakes or dump the clutch and the wheel chirps. However, the pedal pressure is almost as soft as stock, which is very nice considering the amount of TQ it potentially holds. I will try to get a 500 miles break-in before doing a track day and report back. Should be fun.
Here are the weights I thought some of you might be interested. Turns out the weight saving is minimal which is a bummer but i can live with.
Stock Flywheel: 11kg
Xclutch Flywheel: 10kg
Stock assembly: 17.5kg
Xclutch assembly: 16.5kg
Here are the weights I thought some of you might be interested. Turns out the weight saving is minimal which is a bummer but i can live with.
Stock Flywheel: 11kg
Xclutch Flywheel: 10kg
Stock assembly: 17.5kg
Xclutch assembly: 16.5kg
The drivability gets exponentially better with more miles on it.
Installed my organic version this weekend along with an RTD shifter and fresh e46 m3 trans mounts.
60 miles so far
In comparison to the 335is clutch / MFactory SMFW combo I had previously:
60 miles so far
In comparison to the 335is clutch / MFactory SMFW combo I had previously:
- Neutral/Idle chatter is quieter if not same as before
- Clutch is 'grabby' but nothing violent when slipped
- The grab point is higher
- Clutch pedal feel about the same
- Gearbox chatter/drone during low rpm/high load situations has increased but I'm attributing some of that to the chassis mounted RTD shifter.
- Nothing that will drown out music at low volume.
- Noise when Clutch Pedal is Pressed
- My only gripe at the moment
- It sounds like someone is using a miniature chop saw to cut a pipe.
- Not extremely loud or embarrassing at all just noticeable especially with my stock exhaust.
just take your time breaking it in, its a little noisy at first but quiets down with miles on it and the take up gets smooth too.
The organic is not a track clutch but a street clutch but it hasn't let me down yet.
The organic is not a track clutch but a street clutch but it hasn't let me down yet.
I got mine on friday. Just dropped it off to get it balanced. I will let you know how it turns out hopefully by the end of the day tomorrow.
Interested in how the balance comes out.
I’ve got 750 miles on my organic, it’s way more streetable as the miles go up. After this much, I would say it’s very similar to the spec stage 3+ but with a lighter pedal. Can’t wait to turn the boost up!
I’ve got 750 miles on my organic, it’s way more streetable as the miles go up. After this much, I would say it’s very similar to the spec stage 3+ but with a lighter pedal. Can’t wait to turn the boost up!
Every 500 mi you continue to go up, it gets even better. The grabbiness gets considerably better.
Is it the same for the ceramic version in this regard? I also got mine about a week ago, but I have to pretty much re assemble my entire car so I havent driven on it yet. Soon I hope! I just put mine on in the same way it was sent to me so hopefully that's the way it was balanced (assuming so), but also curious as to how the balance comes out!
Yes on the ceramic the experience was the same for me.
Especially the first 50 miles or so it was just silly how grabby it was, but then it got better. I have almost 15,000 miles on mine now and its working great. You cant just pop the clutch unless you want to launch, it will grab. But if you go slow for about 0.75 of an inch right in the middle of the clutch pedal you can get it to start out smooth. Conversely if you want to LAUNCH the thing, it doesn't complain. GC lite 2.0's at 24 PSI with AWD and I can dump the clutch at 4k RPM from the line and it just grabs and goes no complaints.
Especially the first 50 miles or so it was just silly how grabby it was, but then it got better. I have almost 15,000 miles on mine now and its working great. You cant just pop the clutch unless you want to launch, it will grab. But if you go slow for about 0.75 of an inch right in the middle of the clutch pedal you can get it to start out smooth. Conversely if you want to LAUNCH the thing, it doesn't complain. GC lite 2.0's at 24 PSI with AWD and I can dump the clutch at 4k RPM from the line and it just grabs and goes no complaints.
Nice. Very excited. Sounds like we'll have the same set up only I have a RWD. I have an M3 drivetrain ready to go in as well for when I snap an axle haha! A little off topic, but how are you liking the GC 2.0's? I bought mine like 6 mos ago and am just barely getting ready to start the car with them for the first time haha!
First note that I'm at 5280 foot altitude.
In the cold, or at sea level the GC 2.0's are unreal. Spool time is nill, at sea level (lincoln nebraska) while getting the tune tweeked right it hit 28PSI at 4k RPM, 50 deg F ambient.
Here at altitude in the cold its like being at sea level, anything under 50 deg F IAT and they spool super fast and get up to my requested 24 PSI no problem by 4k RPM, I limit it to 16 PSI at 3k RPM. Holds 23 or so to red line with about 75% WGDC.
In the hot, aka IAT 90 deg F or above, there starts to be some lag, but its not horrible. At that IAT she works hard to hit 24 PSI by 4k RPM and can hold about 22 to red line at 85% WGDC.
I've already broken one front axle shaft, and the front drive shaft. After replacing those its been doing well.... its stupid how fast the car is. Its a whole other world when you drive the piss out of it... it actually gets scary because you have to really learn to get off the gas early enough to brake to make a corner without too much speed. Vboxed a 0-60 in 3.2 seconds, first gear on a good launch is so short you don't have time to look at the tach, you have to shift by sound/feel.
I had to switch to 255 all around (widest you can go in the front without being very picky about the exact wheel/tire), more so for braking traction than launch traction.
In the cold, or at sea level the GC 2.0's are unreal. Spool time is nill, at sea level (lincoln nebraska) while getting the tune tweeked right it hit 28PSI at 4k RPM, 50 deg F ambient.
Here at altitude in the cold its like being at sea level, anything under 50 deg F IAT and they spool super fast and get up to my requested 24 PSI no problem by 4k RPM, I limit it to 16 PSI at 3k RPM. Holds 23 or so to red line with about 75% WGDC.
In the hot, aka IAT 90 deg F or above, there starts to be some lag, but its not horrible. At that IAT she works hard to hit 24 PSI by 4k RPM and can hold about 22 to red line at 85% WGDC.
I've already broken one front axle shaft, and the front drive shaft. After replacing those its been doing well.... its stupid how fast the car is. Its a whole other world when you drive the piss out of it... it actually gets scary because you have to really learn to get off the gas early enough to brake to make a corner without too much speed. Vboxed a 0-60 in 3.2 seconds, first gear on a good launch is so short you don't have time to look at the tach, you have to shift by sound/feel.
I had to switch to 255 all around (widest you can go in the front without being very picky about the exact wheel/tire), more so for braking traction than launch traction.
Sounds like a blast! Yeah, sounds like you're in Colorado? I'm in UT at 4500 which is why I went with the GC's over the lites. I was originally going to go with the lites then chris at vtt talked me into the bigger set so they wouldn't even be breaking a sweat at the 600whp (uncorrected) goal I was shooting for. Now that I'm thinking about it, was it you that I PM'd awhile back about setting up the boost control map in tuner pro for higher altitude?
It might have been.
I do run my own PID tunings for this altitude. I've also spent a lot of time trying to get a single tune that will work at both sea level and at altitude. Re-scaling the WGDC base table to go up to 3.0 boost setpoint factor and 500 MAF is very important, because even with TMAP scaling 24 PSI is only seen as about 2.5 boost setpoint factor at sea level, but its 2.9 boost setpoint factor at altitude. Thus by setting your WGDC base values to the right things based on boost setpoint factor and requested MAF, you can then tune a tight PID without it oscillating, and it works at both sea level and altitude.
I've spent many many hours taking logs and adjusting things for sea level and altitude when I drive between the two. One major problem is fuel multiplier. Because the absolute boost pressure is different between the two for the same boost pressure, the PI mappings in the AIC6 need different values for the two altitudes, but you can't do that, so you have to set your fuel scalar to be close and let the short term fuel trims do their work. This means you'll never be able to keep it close to 0 STFT at both locations. I prefer to run 0 at sea level and run negative at altitude as to be safe and run rich rather than lean if you run out of STFT.
I do run my own PID tunings for this altitude. I've also spent a lot of time trying to get a single tune that will work at both sea level and at altitude. Re-scaling the WGDC base table to go up to 3.0 boost setpoint factor and 500 MAF is very important, because even with TMAP scaling 24 PSI is only seen as about 2.5 boost setpoint factor at sea level, but its 2.9 boost setpoint factor at altitude. Thus by setting your WGDC base values to the right things based on boost setpoint factor and requested MAF, you can then tune a tight PID without it oscillating, and it works at both sea level and altitude.
I've spent many many hours taking logs and adjusting things for sea level and altitude when I drive between the two. One major problem is fuel multiplier. Because the absolute boost pressure is different between the two for the same boost pressure, the PI mappings in the AIC6 need different values for the two altitudes, but you can't do that, so you have to set your fuel scalar to be close and let the short term fuel trims do their work. This means you'll never be able to keep it close to 0 STFT at both locations. I prefer to run 0 at sea level and run negative at altitude as to be safe and run rich rather than lean if you run out of STFT.
