What is the best BBK for the money?
- Thread starter doublespaces
- Start date
I can tell you anything you want to know but the machine work by Fab Factory was $200-225 I think, a complete F30 M Performance brake kit with front and rear rotors runs $1700-2000 depending on how hard you search, and a used M3 master cylinder on Ebay usually runs $100 or less. There's some odds and end you'll need too, like brake fluid, drill bits, and tools, depending on how good your set is. I'm cross posting a link to a detailed writeup about what I did with the rears.
http://www.e90post.com/forums/showpost.php?p=21203429&postcount=702
http://www.e90post.com/forums/showpost.php?p=21203429&postcount=702
The part number: 34112221445 Shows ebay listings for sale at 1700. I wonder if a used set could be found for cheaper...
@LMB335is good to see all worked out and is proper fitting! Honestly I've machined 4 or 5 sets of these now and haven't had much feedback whether all is proper or needed any further modification. Good to see some discussion!
I have fixture and programming setup, the hardened steel inserts are a bitch to run through but can do! Pricing is $199 + shipping, can turn them around in a few days depending on the config of my mills on any given day. Anyone interested feel free to email me, [email protected]
-Shawn-
They do pop up used occasionally over on the "other" forum. Most people just opt for the fronts because they're afraid of what's involved with the rears. Once you've done it it's not nearly as intimidating as it seemed
Hey man, just jumped on this forum, glad to see you guys here. It works fantastic and the machine work is top notch. I opted for 11.5mm based on feedback from the guys that first had this done. 12mm is good, 11.5 just makes it a bit easier without really compromising the strength of the mounting tab. I would imagine there's a mm or so of variation from car to car anyways. I've pointed several people in your direction. Hell, I even offered to let them ship them to me and take them to the shop and send them back but now that I see that you offer shipping as well that makes it a no brainer.
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What about machining of the knuckle? I think I've heard of this being done instead.
You can split the difference between the caliper and the knuckle it's just way more work unless you're pulling the knuckles anyways. That's the cleanest solution after the ridiculously expensive ECS Tuning kit ($4k+) but you'd need to create another jig and at least double the labor time for the installation. If you're doing the work yourself and don't need the car for a week or two it's viable.
I know absolutely nothing in regards to this swap or what is needed, @LMB335is brought the machine work to my attention, told me to machine the ear to 11.5 thickness, I did so. Wouldn't know what parts are used or where to begin with this setup, nor do I really care honestly. Ask for machine work, receive machine work =)
Here's the deal on that. The difference in offset/backspacing from the E9x rotor to the F3x rotor is 6-7mm. What I/we did was take 4.5mm off the mounting tab, shave a mm or so off the inside brake pad and call it a day. It's a tight fit but it works well. A alternative is to split that 6-7mm between the caliper mounting tab and wheel knuckle mounting tab by shaving approx 3-3.5 mm off of each for a perfectly centered rotor. It's a cleaner solution but it's a ton of extra labor and doubles the machining for a slightly better result
If someone were to be serious with the brakes, maybe they would consider this then. The biggest resale value would be with the calipers already adjusted to fit the recipient car, so I think the knuckle method may not be the best for most people.
Fair enough! When I get my hands on a set of rotors then I'll hit you up. Might be a while though since I've got so much other stuff to buy still it seems.
No question the method I used is the most cost and labor effective, and has potential resale value. I enjoy symmetry as much as the next guy but the other way is waaay more complicated and time consuming for a mm of two, lol.
Yup. I progressed through each of these steps (except the Ti shims) until I actually needed a BBK after a few years of tracking the car. But now I am really glad I have the BBK. I went with stoptech all around.
Made a short video yesterday as I ran a set of ///M Performance calipers through the Fab Factory caliper treatment. Figured I would share the video and a few pictures here. Machining the hardened steel inserts has took a little bit of process refining over the sets of these I have done but finally have it on lock and getting some perfect shiny toolpath on these!
Got these from ECS...a while back for $1200. there is a huge difference in stopping power and brake fade is pretty much non-issue.
Just the fronts though right? Do they require the same modifications as the f30 brakes?
Not a huge fan of the Porsche wording on a BMW but those brakes look great. How did you get them so cheap? They are $2K right now on sale.
