Well nobody told me that!!!
Lmao, I must have missed that part.
On the xHP notes in the app, it states all acceptable ranges. That's the only way I knew about it. Also remember my unit is Propulsive Dynamics with higher than normal pressures.
Violent transmission shift: 6HP19 AT xHP Stage 3
- Thread starter Jeffman
- Start date
On the xHP notes in the app, it states all acceptable ranges. That's the only way I knew about it. Also remember my unit is Propulsive Dynamics with higher than normal pressures.
I havent used the app. I flashed xHP when it first came out, then reflashed as they made revisions. Other than that, I have not touched it. So far, so good.
I would think all those far negatives are attributed to the better grabbing power of the PD kit and a good thing
Your numbers are actually really good from what I've seen of others but the quick charge time on your a clutch I wonder If that could be sonething
I'll have good info soon March 22 I drop off my car for zip kit , solenoids, and pd kit with my hydra turbos and a few other things so I will make sure to take my values I'll flash to stock and let settle for few days too see if my times and pressures change at all
Well, this is on PD Stock Calibration right now. And PD Calibration runs completely smooth. Whereas xHP stage 3 is almost useless and Stage 2 is somewhat usable. All stages and flashes operate super smooth when driving normal...only xHP goes haywire when WOT. I am working with Justin to tune the car under PD stock calibration. So far, looks promising. He had to delete torque limiter in the tune because it was adjusting the throttle, fuel rate due to repeatedly reaching torque limits. I got a new flash from him without the limiter and the car no longer oscillates rpm when on the pedal aggressively. It does consume more gas and backfires ONCE every time I release the pedal from WOT.
Here's my stock adaptations running stage 3 I agm going to reduce my torque reduction to see if their is any effect and how fast these values adjust without a reset. I would think my quick charge times would change and my pressures increase to prevent longer slip duration on shift with more torque going through the trans. I also can't wait to see the change with new solenoids gaskets zip kit and pd clutches.
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Also 750 Is the max not what's considered good just the range. It's like fuel trims cam go to 34 if it's less you are still technically ok cause you didn't go past the self correcting ability but I think we all agree a 30 fuel trim isn't good.
How many miles on your pd trans cause those values on your adaptation look close to what stock ones I look at. It could just be that you had calibration done so the trans didn't need to adapt as much as one like mine. All my values are close and negative on pressures except a clutch.
Edit
Only reason I ask is you had bad experience with other stuff want to make sure they didnt just use stock parts on your rebuld
Edit
Only reason I ask is you had bad experience with other stuff want to make sure they didnt just use stock parts on your rebuld
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I did not open the clutch packs so I really don't know if they installed PD clutch discs. You know I opened the Valvebody and found no upgraded parts at all, thus I upgrade my VB parts with a Sonnax kit. I probably have 30K miles on the PD unit. I can do another update with current pressure values if you want to see. Although I think it is now adapting to the rubber guibo that I installed because I thought the aluminum one was bad due to the helicopter sound on deceleration...turns out the aluminum unit was fit as a fiddle. So it will take a few days to adapt to the new rubber response. As for calibration... that goes right out the door when you flash xHP. So that would be irrelevant.
Good point on xhp. I am going to try few more miles see if my rough downshift improves otherwise I am going to change solenoids again since they are fcp euro and brand new anyway. Clemens said it is valvenody issue and either rebuild or change solenoids which I emailed him I just did. Do you know if the pd bushings and solenoids with sonnax zip kit constitutes a full rebuild or would me buying a rebuilt valve body be more than those things?
Do not change solenoids again if they are new. Waste of time and labor.
Make sure you do sonnax zip kit with upgraded rear pistons replacing rubber pistons with metal ones.
And you ABSOLUTELY MUST replace your stock bushings...they are the problem if you did not upgrade them. In fact, if I had to upgrade one single thing on a budget...I would only upgrade the bushings to PD bushings and ignore the clutch discs.
To me, priority is:
1. PD Bushings - top priority
2. Friction packs
3. VB sonnax
4. Torque Converter
I also added Liquimolly ATF additive with a new ATF and filter change. Seems to help smoother shifts. So far so good.
As for the new stock rubber guibo vs. aluminum stock guibo... there is no perceptible difference in shift smoothness that I can tell.
I have the pd bushings and frictions,sonnax zip kit,and m shift solenoids. Worst part is car shifted perfect before this upgrade. It does feel like it may be getting better. Weird part is when first installed it took like 10 miles to start but I only drive 8 miles each way to work so I have like 80 miles so far and its 3 quarter's highway so I don't know if it really just takes that long to adapt. Also I flashed xhp few times changing customization module settings so it really hasn't settled in much at all. I just want make sure im not damaging anything by trying to let it adapt.
You should be fine. Just drive it in sport mode alot... I did this for a week straight sucking up gasoline like crazy...but it helped alot. Then switch back to normal drive mode for another period...should smooth out in a month.
Blackarrow335i
Specialist
Many problems are created by the VB the solenoid bores wear out and can’t hold pressure anymore which leads to harsh shift! The only think you can do is to have the VB rebuild! A Sonnax zip kit won’t do it if the bores are worn! I did the zip kit first then did the vacuum test to find out the zip kit isn’t doing anything against that! You will need to enlarge the solenoid bores and get oversized solenoids!
I think about that too. But I’ve put so much personal time, energy, and treasure into my one and only 335 since it was new 11 years ago!
Irrational, yes.
Emotional, yes!
Everything was perfect before the "upgrade" lmao. So should I just order a rev max valve body or should I change solenoids again. Their was an issue with a weird sound on the 1 2 shift and dropped trans and brought to trans guy he said their was debris on solenoid. I wish he said change then if that was case but he took apart and checked everything. Sound did go away but after fluid change it does it within day or two again and only when warm
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