1M Teaser tuned S65 DCT powered 1m3

martymil

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Loaded the tune back up last night, need to get to the track.

Car feels a bit stronger up top and far more responsive.

Deleted cold start as not really needed here in oz.

Going to get some 100 cel primary cats welded in at some point as this will free up a small amount of power.
 

martymil

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Just a quick test sees the 60mph sprint tumble almost 1/2 a sec.

Screenshot_20201212-112036_dragy.jpg
 

martymil

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Finished of the m3 airbox snorkel today and tidied up the engine bay.

Still a load of finishing touches to be done like under the car and a host of ceramic coating, dry ice blasting of the undercarriage, suspension components and paint stripping the 20" m359 wheels for a brushed black tinted polished alloy look.

There is still a load of stuff I would like to do to the engine bay but that will have to wait till next year.

Mad2.jpg
 

Duffman

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I've been reading through this thread, and a few others, learning about this swap. I'm also still relatively new to BMW from a moding perspective and all the coding that comes with this type of thing.

I'd be starting with a 135i N55 DCT with CIC, and then doing the same swap you did here. In my preliminary research I'd be looking for at least a 2011 or newer swap.

what modules did you end up using from the m3? all of them? I suspect I could follow a very similar route, but again, I'm learning it all now. I've been keeping an eye on auction sites for wrecked M3's to use as donor vehicles for this, so I'd be following your steps in a way by using a full donor car.

There was another thread where a guy was doing a full S65 swap, and he had gone through the entire engine harness as well, to figure out what was truly needed vs not; I think his final conclusion was to just use the entire M3 harness (this was over on 1addicts).

Also curious were you got those carbon ducts that are above the grills...? I haven't seen those in carbon before and really like it. a quick google search yielded no real support in finding a vendor for them.
 

martymil

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The electrics are a nightmare and I had my mate do the electrical work as that is not my specialty, don't get me wrong i can do major stereo installs and repairs
but the work needed to do this conversion is mind boggling.

it would be easier if you got a LCI m3 and swap the whole harness to a 135i LCI.

I got an early 09 m3 non LCI so it made things harder but not impossible but I was also going from manual to DCT which poses other hurdles.

The ducts come from a company called RTuned – Exotics Carbon Fiber Specialist (r-tuned.com), the bloke is a nice guy but be prepared they are not cheap.
 
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amg6975

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Looks awesome. I may or may not have bought an M3 donor for a swap today. How'd you get the intake snorkel to line up with the 1M scoops? I did you use the M3 cross member some how?

1609808987618.png
 

martymil

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Congrats or condolences which do you prefer, but once its done its totally worth it.

I'll take a pic for you later but I basically trimmed it but it's not fully sealed, it looks better than nothing though.
 

martymil

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I love it when people notice the little finishing touches I've made, some have no idea how much work something like this is.

My own engineers words "this car was built to the highest oem standard that he has ever seen" I was floored.

I just want others to enjoy it and I'm willing to help anyone and anyway I can just ask.
 

amg6975

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I love it when people notice the little finishing touches I've made, some have no idea how much work something like this is.

My own engineers words "this car was built to the highest oem standard that he has ever seen" I was floored.

I just want others to enjoy it and I'm willing to help anyone and anyway I can just ask.
Awesome. Yeah that was one thing that was bothering me about most swaps is the airbox has no way to get any fresh air. I was thinking about 3D printing something to go in there, block off the rear inlet and run an additional snorkel down behind the right headlight. It's great that there is actually hope of it somewhat lining up and looking legit.

I'm hoping my swap goes pretty smooth, both my 1 series chassis and M3 are 2012 builds so fingers crossed I can just swap in the M3 harness and change the tail light plugs and a couple other odds and ends. I do need to do CIC delete which doesn't seem too bad but I'm also deleting the adaptive xenon lights, RDC, ABG, FZD, and basically anything that isn't necessary to get the car around the track quickly so that'll be an adventure.

Couple remaining unknows I have:
  1. Heatshields and how that went in
    1. How did you attach the left side shields?
    2. Did you use the M3 or 1M right side shields?
    3. M3 splash shields?
  2. Brake and fuel lines
    1. I know you have to use the M3 lines so they aren't too close to the left bank exhaust
    2. Did the mount points bolt in smoothly?
    3. Did you have to shorten them?
  3. All the rads from the M3 bolt right into the 1 series rad support? I know there is some cutting to get the oil cooler to fit?
  4. Fuel pump is from the M3, tank is still the 1 series unit?
  5. Driveshaft shortening, which side of the CSB, how much?
  6. Did you reinitialize the KOMBI and DME to the chassis mileage or leave them at the drivetrain mileage?
I'm sure I'll have more questions but that's my short list for now. M3 will be here Friday and my 135 is already completely torn down so I think I should be able to get through the swap fairly quickly.

Cheers.r
 
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martymil

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When I get home I'll answer the rest of the questions but I modified the m3 left snorkel to get fresh air aswell

The shields just need some trimming and bolt straight up, it's a mix and match.

I didn't change the brake line under the car I wrapped them in special heat shielding and made a bracket to hold it against the rail, the fuel line I modified the m3 one to fit

All the rads fit but you will have to use the m3 air-conditioning lines and engine bay brake lines.

The electrical is a small nightmare as the heater uses a different setup and you have to wire in and plumb in the vacuum pump.

I can't help you with the electrical I had a mate do it all

The donor car had the same milage as my car so nothing was needed he also done all the coding.
 

martymil

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You will also have to change the steering column and clockspring as its control by the dme unlike n54 and the connections and wiring is totally different

The brake booster, master cylinder and abs unit is different and will need to be changed and rewired.

The 1m shares a lot of the m3 stuff already so I didn't have to change much but the 135 there is lots of other stuff that has to be done that I don't know about.

It would be easier to change the whole harness and modules I would think but I'm no expert on this.
 
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martymil

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You can reuse the front half of the driveshaft and the rear has to be shortened 90mm but measure it.

You have to change the fuel pump and filter both sides of the tank.

the connections and pumps are different and so is the EKP and connections.

All the shielding was trial and error, panel beating into shape, a bit of drilling, a bit of cutting and trimming.

The guard liners will need to be played with a lot.

It's just a lot of mods to factory stuff that you will have to custom mod or make.
 

martymil

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The factory engine cooler will have to be cleaned out as that will become your trans cooler as the m3 is different and wont fit.

I had to trim the rad support on mine to fit the m3 oil cooler but I dont think it will fit the 135i bar you will have to custom make something there.

The engine and trans is 1 days work and the easiest part, you will be there for another month for the rest.
 

martymil

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You would need a massive 3d printer to do the 135i v8 snorkel

Don't think it's worth the effort but if someone makes one at a resable price, put me down for 1
 

NoQuarter

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Really good point... but there are some good snap together type assemblies that could work pretty well I think.
 

martymil

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I use the drivers side bottom bumper scoop to feed the airbox just like the m3

A heat gun and rag and an iron to reshape the factory m3 duct worked a charm.