Technical Shrick Stage 1 Low-Lift cam results
- Thread starter martymil
- Start date
I debated high lifts with Omar. It was strongly recommended to build the head with fully upgraded valvetrain and a thicker head gasket IIRC.
Dont need to try both because the low lifts make way to much torque as it is for stock pistons.
Combine that with high rpm, stock rods and a missfire and you will see shrapnel flying everywhere through the engine bay.
Its not a maybe but guaranteed.
Not sure how you can gaurantee things you have never tried lol
Because what marty says is law lol. Have you not figured that out yet?
There are plenty of cases when you are octane limited, see most of the world, where you would want more aggressive cams to get the most out of your engine and fuel. Your turbo charger(s) is working easier creating less heat because of the more efficient cam. This means you should be able to increase the boost.
As a reminder most of the world does not have E85 access, hell 85% of America does not have E85 access within 30-40 miles. If you had to drive 40 miles for a fill up you would spend 5.3 gallons of E85 just on the trip leaving you with 1/3 of your tank gone.
Most twins make around 500 whp on a dynojet on pump 93 on a stock n54 as proven time and time again. Assuming you could repeat his results dropping 6 PSI on twins or a single would be a huge improvement. If I could make the same power on 18psi that I make on 22psi it means I could turn the boost up as less heat is being generated from the turbo and there is less chance of knock.
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Don't have to try it, as seen to many stock motors with failed pistons and bent rods and these cams make more torque than stock ones.
But you guys try them and get back to us and let us know how it worked out for you after a few months.
Its called decades of experience across multiple platforms.
More aggressive and factory pistons and rods don't mix well
Guess you really don't know how how engines work do you.
You still need the same amount of air and fuel with same compression to make the same power and that means same heat output.
The only thing this will do is make your turbos last longer as you don't have to spin them as hard to make the same power.
The engine will still generate the same heat in the combustion chamber and the engine will still be susceptible to knock but at a lower boost level.
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I actually would love to try the high lifts on my motor because if what you are saying is true everyone should go buy these cams because everyone will make more power at less boost. Plus I don't have a twin turbo setup anymore so I'm not worried about bending rods seen 6 bolt rods hold 700+ torque. across the many platforms I have seen most cam manufacturers design there cams to be compatible with the stock rotating assembly because it helps both parties the end user and the manufacturer to sell more cams and the end user to be able to achieve gains without a entire motor build. Why does majority of cat cams say they are compatible with stock valve train?
Just so it is clear when you spin a turbo 'less hard' by say 6psi will the turbo generate the same amount of heat, more heat, or less heat going into the intercooler than before?
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Just so it is clear when you spin a turbo 'less hard' by say 6psi will the turbo generate the same amount of heat, more heat, or less heat going into the intercooler than before?
A bit of an oversimplification. Increasing pressure inside the turbo will by process release energy by heat. So yes. Some heat comes from high psi in turbo.
This is complicated by turbo sizing, air volume, shaft speed, etc. Turbos also heat up much more when spun out of efficiency like most folks do with twins or even singles chasing max power. If this allows you to reach the same power while staying in the efficiency curve, then that's good.
That was my goal by doing the head, cams, and big twins. Efficiency is everything.
This is complicated by turbo sizing, air volume, shaft speed, etc. Turbos also heat up much more when spun out of efficiency like most folks do with twins or even singles chasing max power. If this allows you to reach the same power while staying in the efficiency curve, then that's good.
That was my goal by doing the head, cams, and big twins. Efficiency is everything.
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Turbo does not make heat it retains it, the more you keep the wastegate closed the more it retains.
If your making the same hp at 22 or 26 psi the combustion chamber heat output is the same.
That's why cams are good because you can make the same power at much lower boost levels which keep the shaft speeds down.
If your making the same hp at 22 or 26 psi the combustion chamber heat output is the same.
That's why cams are good because you can make the same power at much lower boost levels which keep the shaft speeds down.
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So do high lift schricks need special pistons? What does schrick say? Given they arent doing low lifts. Seems conflicting info is around. Drop height space on factory max TDC lift vs schrick high lift would need at least a spare 1.5mm in the pocket to allow schricks to be green, without piston valve relief grinding. My guess is it will work if there are folk running forged factory shaped pistons, without reliefs and the high lifts. But, be good to know the specific drop heights to compare.
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Well according to @JohnDaviz and his conversation with schrick the high lifts are stock valve train compatible.
