It sounds like the 335is has less room maybe? Dunno. Wasn't a big deal for me. I just bought some mandrel bends and cut, fit, weld, repeat.I believe you, so why is everyone worrying so much? This is high on my "next move list".
It sounds like the 335is has less room maybe? Dunno. Wasn't a big deal for me. I just bought some mandrel bends and cut, fit, weld, repeat.I believe you, so why is everyone worrying so much? This is high on my "next move list".
...my question, too.=2. Where is the oil catch can hose running too on the passed get side(right)?
1. Good eye. I am. I was running my boost gauge to the oem crankcase vacuum oil cap piece. Turns out we get positive pressure in the crankcase with single kits at least(never checked with stock twins). Not much, but any is more than we are supposed to have.First awesome job on the charge that looks pretty good there @The Convert. Second is off topic sorry guys but I have two questions for @The Convert.
1. Are you monitoring crankcase pressure in this picture?
2. Where is the oil catch can hose running too on the passed get side(right)?
I think my crankcase adapter for the diesel engines I work on will fit. I'll try it1. Good eye. I am. I was running my boost gauge to the oem crankcase vacuum oil cap piece. Turns out we get positive pressure in the crankcase with single kits at least(never checked with stock twins). Not much, but any is more than we are supposed to have.
2. I'm running a Motiv single kit, but have the same filter as my old bottom mount fftec single kit on instead of the inlet tube provided with the motiv kit. So, I made a plate with a tube that the catch can hose runs to for vacuum under boost. I have not tested this though, just copied the idea from my fftec kit. In the future, I'll probably tap the catch can and run my boost gauge to it to see if it is actually pulling any vacuum.
View attachment 9491
View attachment 9490
Very nice job. Home brew/custom fit would be easier to squeeze in, do what you gotta to do to make it fit. OTS/pre-fabbed pipe is why I was looking for confirmation, it is what it is. I have a TIG, but getting lazy in my old age. If I spent money on a FMIC with piping, I'd rather the piping just fit without needing to modify it at this point.It sounds like the 335is has less room maybe? Dunno. Wasn't a big deal for me. I just bought some mandrel bends and cut, fit, weld, repeat.
Looks like the bigger issue with fitment is the driver's side inlets. Moves those to the passenger's side and you free up a good bit of space.View attachment 9495 Very nice job. Home brew/custom fit would be easier to squeeze in, do what you gotta to do to make it fit. OTS/pre-fabbed pipe is why I was looking for confirmation, it is what it is. I have a TIG, but getting lazy in my old age. If I spent money on a FMIC with piping, I'd rather the piping just fit without needing to modify it at this point.
Yep, 335is would need KY and a shoe horn by comparison. There are multiple formed hoses/lines there that create a space the lower IC pipe needs to fit through. Can't see in this pic, but there are 2 more on the engine side and the passenger side and even this 2.75" silicone hose is squeezed on 2-3 of them.
Ahh, I see. I don't have the ability to Fab pipes for my self, and I'm trying to avoid going too far from stock-looking. This isn't in my near future apparently.Looks like the bigger issue with fitment is the driver's side inlets. Moves those to the passenger's side and you free up a good bit of space.
It’s the angle of the picture. There’s room up top, but ST or hot side inlets would make even more. The inlet clears the 3” charge pipe with room to spare at the closest point, so definitely less concerned about that area than the places the IC hose is already hitting.Looks like the bigger issue with fitment is the driver's side inlets. Moves those to the passenger's side and you free up a good bit of space.
Not to continue the off topic, but if it wasn't mentioned, what PCV setup and catch can are you running?1. Good eye. I am. I was running my boost gauge to the oem crankcase vacuum oil cap piece. Turns out we get positive pressure in the crankcase with single kits at least(never checked with stock twins). Not much, but any is more than we are supposed to have.
2. I'm running a Motiv single kit, but have the same filter as my old bottom mount fftec single kit on instead of the inlet tube provided with the motiv kit. So, I made a plate with a tube that the catch can hose runs to for vacuum under boost. I have not tested this though, just copied the idea from my fftec kit. In the future, I'll probably tap the catch can and run my boost gauge to it to see if it is actually pulling any vacuum.
View attachment 9491
View attachment 9490
Oem flapper to BMS can to fftec style filter on motiv ST. RB valve on the low pressure side. That's it so far. Haven't seen enough real data on externalizing the low load side to follow suit yet.Not to continue the off topic, but if it wasn't mentioned, what PCV setup and catch can are you running?
Oem flapper to BMS can to fftec style filter on motiv ST. RB valve on the low pressure side. That's it so far. Haven't seen enough real data on externalizing the low load side to follow suit yet.
I don't know of anything. Fftec may make you one if you call them up?Hey do you know of an off the shelf product that I can use to modify a BMS filter so I can attach a hose to it? Or a ST filter I can buy already designed that way and still fits on a VM/ACF top mount? Asking for my buddy.
I can probably hack something together at the hardware store but if there is something off the shelf I would prefer that.
I don't know of anything. Fftec may make you one if you call them up?
A nut is a big no no. Don't use any sealants or fasteners that could get ingested. Mine is a round plate that fits the recess in the end of the filter and an aluminum tube slide through a hole in the center, welded to the disk, and a flare put on the inside tube so it sandwiches the rubber of the filter between the flare and the disk.I'll give it a shot. My only fear is their existing filter may be too large and not fit the top mount. I wonder if it is worth the hassle to send them mine...I think it's likely going to be a home depot solution...I just really don't want to use to use a nut on the side of the filter that could come loose and be eaten by a turbo...
Who knows maybe I will just cut an X insert something similar(but larger) and seal with room temperature vulcanizer:
https://usercontent1.hubstatic.com/13569880_f1024.jpg
Or this...
https://www.amazon.com/Universal-Cleaner-Smog-Vent-Fitting/dp/B01KW11JLK
I don't like the idea of no vacuum on the high side...
A nut is a big no no. Don't use any sealants or fasteners that could get ingested. Mine is a round plate that fits the recess in the end of the filter and an aluminum tube slide through a hole in the center, welded to the disk, and a flare put on the inside tube so it sandwiches the rubber of the filter between the flare and the disk.
it's about 35lbs, 39lbs with everything in a box ship ready.Do you know the weight on this? My current monster IC is 37lbs...
it's about 35lbs, 39lbs with everything in a box ship ready.