Pcv delete fitting options

[Dmak]

I always wanted to do external pcv set up. The only piece that i really need is the pcv delete fitting. Want to see what are some options out there thats reasonably priced with shipping to canada. I always find we get charge up the ass for shipping.
Options that i know of are RB, vtto, ad engineering. Anyone else sell the pcv delete fitting? Thx for any help

 

[fmorelli]

I think someone here gutted their internal PCV and then ran a 2jz valve externally. You'd have to look for the thread on this N54 sub-forum, or maybe someone will know the link. But that would be a roll-your-own setup, which is not rocket science ...

Filippo

 

[Dmak]

I think someone here gutted their internal PCV and then ran a 2jz valve externally. You'd have to look for the thread on this N54 sub-forum, or maybe someone will know the link. But that would be a roll-your-own setup, which is not rocket science ...

Filippo

That is pretty much what i want to do. But since i just put a new valve cover in and didnt plug the head ports. I will need to fitting to block off the preasure from head ports but still connect to the pcv outlet of valve cover.

 

[Panzerfaust]

I think someone here gutted their internal PCV and then ran a 2jz valve externally. You'd have to look for the thread on this N54 sub-forum, or maybe someone will know the link. But that would be a roll-your-own setup, which is not rocket science ...

Filippo

You might be talking about me? I run a low side remarkably similar to yours, with the exception of using a VTT PCV delete fitting in order to run the 2jz valve in-line for the low side, rather than the RB fitting.

 

[fmorelli]

You might be talking about me? I run a low side remarkably similar to yours, with the exception of using a VTT PCV delete fitting in order to run the 2jz valve in-line for the low side, rather than the RB fitting.

Yeah I think it was you ... recall you posted some stuff about it ... or maybe I made it up in my mind! lol

Filippo

 

[Panzerfaust]

Yeah I think it was you ... recall you posted some stuff about it ... or maybe I made it up in my mind! lol

Filippo

Yeah, I had a post in some PCV-related thread (possibly even yours) detailing my PCV setup because it maintains full controlled vacuum on the low side while still going VTA from multiple locations on the boost side.

OP, the main difference between the RB fitting vs the VTT and other "delete" fittings is that the RB fitting has a hole machined into it that a stock 2JZ valve slides into, whereas the delete fittings offer a -8 connection. If you're looking for simple, Rob's kit works well. I wanted my PCV valve to be run vertically and wanted larger hoses than the RB kit will let you use so I decided to switch to the VTT fitting along with -8 hose, and it just so happens that the diameter of the largest part of a 2jz valve is perfect for snugly fitting into that hose size.

 

[Payam@BMS]

N54 Valve Cover Fittings | Acfabrication

PCV Delete Fitting The PCV delete fitting is designed to remove the pcv and vent the excessive crankcase pressures that the n54 factory system does very poorly. N54 PCV BIllet BMW 335 135 535 3.0 turbo crankcase catch can

acfabrication.net

 

[Panzerfaust]

Here is a link to my full PCV system setup, as well as my reasoning behind everything. It's a long read because it covers both high and low sides of our systems, so if you dont plan on changing your high side then you only have to read part of it.

I'm still super happy with the results and think this is the best possible PCV system setup for high boost and/or especially upgraded turbo(s). Maintains OEM-like vacuum levels on the low side with an extra fail safe like @fmorelli and @barry@3DM did too, so you know it's a good idea

 

[matreyia]

I deleted this part on my car long ago and replaced this connector with a 10 AN connector and hose and didn't see any effects. But Rob at RB is saying that this part should not be deleted or else it will be incorrect setup. Anyone delete this also? I have this hose running from the VC to the high side OCC.

Reason I am in contact with Rob is because I heard a hissing sound a few days ago that was located at the low side connector to the VC where the RB PCV adapter is located. And this hissing sound was accompanied by idle fluctuation. Let me know if anyone has deleted this part also.

 

[Snertz]

I've had it deleted on mine for a while now, noticed no issues.

The circled piece is basically a 1 way flapper valve with a controlled leak when closed. I believe it allows for vacuum to be drawn on the crankcase when the low side is left in stock configuration or plumbed to an external vac source like the throttle body port.

I assume you're running the RB external PCV setup, stupid question but is the low side can empty? I've neglected emptying mine to the point the can was full and condensated liquid was being drawn back into the engine causing some weird behavior.

 

[Omar@VaderSolutions]

if you delete the flapper you must delete the pcv as well. you can delete one without the other , otherwise you run into issues

 

[matreyia]

if you delete the flapper you must delete the pcv as well. you can delete one without the other , otherwise you run into issues

I have had it deleted along with the RB PCV delete kit with plugged ports.
I can either go install a new flap tonight or leave it alone in accordance to best practice. So if I don't need it, then I will leave it alone (ie: not needed because of plugged ports and deleted pcv kit).

VT

 

[matreyia]

I've had it deleted on mine for a while now, noticed no issues.

The circled piece is basically a 1 way flapper valve with a controlled leak when closed. I believe it allows for vacuum to be drawn on the crankcase when the low side is left in stock configuration or plumbed to an external vac source like the throttle body port.

I assume you're running the RB external PCV setup, stupid question but is the low side can empty? I've neglected emptying mine to the point the can was full and condensated liquid was being drawn back into the engine causing some weird behavior.

I have plugged ports and deleted pcv kit from RB and two catch cans. for the low side can, there is a hose drain that I use every week to drain the low side oil residue.

 

[Omar@VaderSolutions]

this is very confusing.... rb does not delete pcv, they externalize it. this must retain the stock flapper .

deleting the pcv like my kit will require deleting the flapper as well. this is preferred method for maximum power. oil vapor does not recirculate back into the engine this way, oil vapor destroys octane rating. this is why i am against retaining pcv

 

[matreyia]

this is very confusing.... rb does not delete pcv, they externalize it. this must retain the stock flapper .

deleting the pcv like my kit will require deleting the flapper as well. this is preferred method for maximum power. oil vapor does not recirculate back into the engine this way, oil vapor destroys octane rating. this is why i am against retaining pcv

Ah...I see. So I don't have the delete kit, but rather the RB external PCV kit installed with plugged ports and I still need the stock hose.

VT

 

[matreyia]

Hmmm... installed a new pcv vent hose last night and absolutely zero change in idle fluctuations at stop lights. New vanos solenoids, new hoses, new oil and filter,.... perhaps I should change spark plugs since I just put the car through a dyno tuning session couple of weeks ago?

 

[Torgus]

this is very confusing.... rb does not delete pcv, they externalize it. this must retain the stock flapper .

deleting the pcv like my kit will require deleting the flapper as well. this is preferred method for maximum power. oil vapor does not recirculate back into the engine this way, oil vapor destroys octane rating. this is why i am against retaining pcv

So under load the suction from the intake sucks enough oil vapor through the catch can, into the turbo, and then out through the intake tract to effect effective octane negatively?

Solutions are a vac pump that only works under load, complicated, or VTA but then there is no vacuum under load. I was under the understanding it was better to have some vacuum under load than none? I'm no PCV expert but the pressure in the intake manifold under load will be higher than the pressure in the crankcase, potentially forcing the blow-by gases back into the crankcase when you really want to get them out I thought? This is why you use a vacuum source so under load the blow by gases will actually leave and you will not pressurize the crankcase. Isn't this why high performance engines have a dedicated vacuum pump.

 

[Snertz]

if you delete the flapper you must delete the pcv as well. you can delete one without the other , otherwise you run into issues

Other way around, if you delete the PCV valve but still plumb low side to the manifold then yes the flapper must be deleted too. Otherwise too much vacuum is drawn on the crankcase and you'll get a whistling sound from air getting drawn through the seals in off boost situations. You'd still need a check valve on the lowside otherwise boost would be sent straight into the crankcase.

Since VT still has a PCV valve on the low side, without the flapper the crankcase would see minimal vacuum but no issues should arise. Think of it this way - you have a sealed bottle with two hoses coming off, bottle representing the crankcase. If you suck on one hose (lowside to intake manifold), unless you plug the second hose i.e. the flapper valve's job, the bottle would see minimal vacuum since air would flow in through the second hose.

So under load the suction from the intake sucks enough oil vapor through the catch can to effect octane?

Only in off boost situations, once there's positive boost the PCV valve closes and there's no flow between the valve cover and the manifold. Catch cans are not 100% effective so vapor could still make it back into the engine in certain situations. I agree with Omar that preventing this altogether is better for performance.

Just saw your edit, yes vacuum under load is better but implementation of a dedicated vac pump would be pricey and challenging due to our limited space. IIRC VTT was working on a setup but the pump took the place of the power steering pump.

Hmmm... installed a new pcv vent hose last night and absolutely zero change in idle fluctuations at stop lights. New vanos solenoids, new hoses, new oil and filter,.... perhaps I should change spark plugs since I just put the car through a dyno tuning session couple of weeks ago?

How old are the plug and coils?

 

[matreyia]

Other way around, if you delete the PCV valve but still plumb low side to the manifold then yes the flapper must be deleted too. Otherwise too much vacuum is drawn on the crankcase and you'll get a whistling sound from air getting drawn through the seals in off boost situations. You'd still need a check valve on the lowside otherwise boost would be sent straight into the crankcase.

Since VT still has a PCV valve on the low side, without the flapper the crankcase would see minimal vacuum but no issues should arise. Think of it this way - you have a sealed bottle with two hoses coming off, bottle representing the crankcase. If you suck on one hose (lowside to intake manifold), unless you plug the second hose i.e. the flapper valve's job, the bottle would see minimal vacuum since air would flow in through the second hose.



Only in off boost situations, once there's positive boost the PCV valve closes and nothing is drawn from the valve cover into the manifold. Catch cans are not 100% effective so vapor could still make it back into the engine in certain situations. I agree with Omar that preventing this altogether is better for performance.



How old are the plug and coils?

Precision Raceworks Coils less than a year old. Plugs NGK two step colder at .022 gap less than six months old. These are the things I am about to do this Saturday which MIGHT fix this issue:

1. Change the two idle pulleys (not tensioner pulley) - I noticed the idler pulley right in between the Crank Hub Dampener and the Tensioner Pulley Assembly is physically oscillating at an angular manner causing the belt to move forward and backwards to the front and rear of the bully edges - imagine the belt travelling towards the direction of the rear of the car and then returning to the direction of the front of the car. I don't know if this pulley oscillation and belt motion is contributing to this stop light idle oscillation but in any case, the pulley needs to be replaced since it is oscillating physically. I never seen this on my car before.

2. Change driver side mount from Black Forest Stage 1 mount back to stock 335i motor mount (and use the stronger passenger side mount in place of the driver side to have more strength - normally, driver side mounts are not as strong or expensive as passenger mounts due to the fact that the forces mostly go to the passenger side when revving.)

3. Change steering pulley to aluminum billet pulley.

4. Change sparkplugs if needed upon inspection and try NGK two step at .020

5. double check ALL vacuum hoses... perhaps there is a loose connection somewhere.

MHD resetting all adaptations on the menu did not solve the issue. Car runs fine, but this idle issue is noticeable and I know not to ignore 'new' sounds when they arise. I will keep working until I find the culprit. Just like the alternator pulley was damaging my serpentine belts consistently, so too I will find out wtf is going on here.

 

[Omar@VaderSolutions]

vacuum pump is king