Thanks. Starting to think about how I want to execute a similar setup and father a parts list and was planning to zip tie the plug somewhere but remove the stock pcv hose. But I heard that will kill my battery for some reason. Is that why you left it plugged in and ticked the hose somewhere?
As of right now the low boost issue is unresolved. Currently there's a vacuum leak bad enough to throw idle lean codes, but before that I got to a point where it was "good enough" and I was residing to my PS2 is just super worn and had a very rough life while I had a JB4 lol. I was ignorant to WGDC parameters at that time and blindly trusted Terry checking my logs and telling me everything looked awesome meanwhile my turbo was being forced at 99% every time I went WOT to hit 26psi peak and tapered to 22-23psi at redline.
Ahh I see. I completely forgot the reason, I just remember when I did my BMS OCC their instructions was to only tuck it out of the way somewhere and then leave it otherwise it'll mess some things up. I wonder how the internal circuit works though like if it's a simple continuity based thing like the brake sensor or if it's more involved.
Yeah that is where I saw it too. Honestly that would drive me crazy. But I’m wondering if they say that in their video because it was a nuance of the JB4 and possibly the issue doesn’t exist if you are flash only. I guess there’s only one way to find out so I will be unplugging that little heater to see what happens
That is an excellent point. I forgot about how many annoying nuances there were to running the JB4... Let me know how it goes when you do it! I'd love to get rid of mine as well if that becomes an option.
I used this one: AutoLine Pro Automotive Smoke Machine
I wouldn’t do it this way. From what I understand the key to a recharge is to empty out the system first. And to do that you need a special canister to capture the refrigerant. The. You have to connect a vacuum to clear out the system, then add the refrigerant. I watched a few videos about this because I want to do it for a different car. Shops in socal charge 190 for the service. HF has the parts for less. The only thing missing is the tank to capture the refrigerant, but that is pricey and you also need to find a place to dispose it.
Thanks for sharing, I'll be excited to hear what you find. I'm currently dealing with (I think) some kind if vac leak, as my idle ltft was like 10%. Then just got my car back yesterday from getting my intake valves walnut blasted, and something must be loose because now ltft at idle is like 15 - 17%
Do you have any pics of how you connected this to your intake tract? I gotta get one of these. But I need an air compressor too.
Funny enough I was just watching system recharge videos, and the diy person went to a shop to have his system evacuated first then did everything else on his own. The rest looked pretty straightforward, just need a decent vacuum pump and manifold gauges. Of course I'll probably want to do the UV dye to check if there is an actual leak but something I might tackle next with summer on the horizon.
I feel your pain! I honestly wouldn't be that surprised if they botched your intake manifold gaskets when putting it back on. I had that happen at a shop a little bit ago and it blew my mind how little care was put into putting the car back together properly.Thanks for sharing, I'll be excited to hear what you find. I'm currently dealing with (I think) some kind if vac leak, as my idle ltft was like 10%. Then just got my car back yesterday from getting my intake valves walnut blasted, and something must be loose because now ltft at idle is like 15 - 17%
Do you know how many gallon that air compressor is? I've read that the little pancake ones suck for leak testing, but I don't know
Would you say the one you used seemed adequate for the job? I don't want to get a monster just to leak test, but don't want to buy twice because I went too small...
It's just a baby 1gal compressor. For finding major leaks via smoke testing I'd say it's just fine. I don't even have it plugged in when testing because it's too loud- I just fill it in my apartment then carry it down and let the smoker go until the compressor tank is empty. So far leaks are quite obvious well before the tank is empty. Would a 2gal be nicer? Sure, and that's what I would buy if I was buying one for myself.Do you know how many gallon that air compressor is? I've read that the little pancake ones suck for leak testing, but I don't know
I run the Mishimoto N55 E-Series specific oil catch can and it does incorporate the heater still. The hose routing is a bit convoluted, but it fits pretty well. It did take a while to break it free from the original hose without damage though! I also wasn't a fan of the BMS dangling heater 'solution'.
Now that has me thinking about reincorporating the heater back into the PCV system...
To me it makes sense that if it is going back into the intake tract as at least it’ll be a hot mist or something, rather than a drip of whatever concoction comes out of the crank case.
To recap, there are brand new O2 sensors, hpfp, spark plugs, and MAF on the car. Before throwing more money at replacing other sensors I'm going to smoke the exhaust system and see if any leaks show. I'm wondering/hoping if that pot hole jarred a connection loose that's causing it. I've literally never seen my car get smoke tested and not show any smoke and it currently baffles me that it's finally there but throwing lean codes. I thought it would be a vacuum leak but I can't find any now. The shop I went to owes me a follow-up smoking so I'll go there again to have a second opinion and extra set of eyes on it. Not sure what happened, but mine was cut off so I don't have a good way to just slap a hose on it and incorporate it into my inlet. I may look into it further but we'll see.
