N55 swaps/interchangability

[CalvinNismo]

I believe the F-Series cars have an extra rib on the belt, so if someone can confirm that is the case it’s a no-go for sure. I was looking into this when I was considering an S55 VAC/ATI damper a while ago.

I’d be looking into a Z4 35i(s) belt (EPAS as well), or do it the old fashioned way and wrap some wire around the belt route and measure the wire.

 

[houtan]

Thanks for posting updates. Looking forward to hearing how the rest of your install goes.

 

[Dynamics99]

Okay,

So for belts, I was comparing part numbers to the N55 m2. The F-Series has an 8-rib belt. So I did comparison between a 2008 E90 335i with n54, 2011 E90 335i N55, 2014 E89 Z4 N54, and 2017 F87 M2 with N55. For continental belts, they have a metric part number for example 4070732. The digits break it down by:
4: multi-v belt
07: how many ribs
073: the inches in length as a whole number
2: how many inches in decimal or left over from an inch. 073.2 inches for the last 4 digits.

Found these lengths through the Continental parts catalog under their attribute section:

Continental Online Parts Catalog

ShowMeTheParts is changing how the world finds replacement parts for their vehicles.

www.showmetheparts.com

Here are the lengths:

2008 E90 335i N54: 7 rib with 73.03 inches length
2011 E90 335i N55: 7 rib with 73.23 inches length
2014 E89 Z4 N54: 7 rib with 57.99 inches length
2017 F87 M2 N55: 8 rib with 54.72 inches length


I might have to use the string/wire method, but we have a spring-loaded tensioner. How would I take that into account?

 

[CalvinNismo]

Nice digging! If someone can lend a spare pair of hands, you want to measure the route length of both extremes of the tensioner and you want somewhere in the middle really.

 

[Dynamics99]

That's on the back burner for now. Stuck installing the front crankshaft seal since I do not have the tool. The seal is almost in and I was using the old seal with tape on the old seal edge to prevent marring the new one. Am I forced to get the install tool or is there another hillbilly way to do it? Have like 3-4 mm to go before it sits below flush.

 

[Dynamics99]

Hi,

I'm ready to drop the engine back in. I have left the manual trans in the car. Can I mate the input shaft to the clutch and flywheel without pulling the trans out?

 

[wheela]

That's on the back burner for now. Stuck installing the front crankshaft seal since I do not have the tool. The seal is almost in and I was using the old seal with tape on the old seal edge to prevent marring the new one. Am I forced to get the install tool or is there another hillbilly way to do it? Have like 3-4 mm to go before it sits below flush.

Did you end up getting the install tool, or were you able to improvise something?

 

[Dynamics99]

Did you end up getting the install tool, or were you able to improvise something?

I did. I scored a deal on ebay for $75 for the DP tool but the stud with the long thread broke when I went to push the seal in further (maybe I should have used a counter hold or something). I was sad but with the big cap that goes over the stud I was able to mallet the seal nicely. Gotta see if I can fix the stud. Was able to apply the primer and a volkswagon RTV bond. I put the electrical harnesses and attached the sensors. Also torqued down the crankshaft pulley, tensioner pulley, and the pulley to the right of the crankshaft.

 

[F30Delvi]

The post has been amazing with information.

with my luck, I did a huge job on the valve cover and oil cooler housing and didn't prime the engine before starting. a week later, the engine seized up with copper all over the oil filter.

Though about just getting the bare lower 3/4of the engine, which would be without the head of an F15 N55. and just switch everything else over.

Real question is, could I do that to my 2012 F30 335i?

Thanks all.