N55 swaps/interchangability

[CalvinNismo]

I believe the F-Series cars have an extra rib on the belt, so if someone can confirm that is the case it’s a no-go for sure. I was looking into this when I was considering an S55 VAC/ATI damper a while ago.

I’d be looking into a Z4 35i(s) belt (EPAS as well), or do it the old fashioned way and wrap some wire around the belt route and measure the wire.

 

[houtan]

Thanks for posting updates. Looking forward to hearing how the rest of your install goes.

 

[Dynamics99]

Okay,

So for belts, I was comparing part numbers to the N55 m2. The F-Series has an 8-rib belt. So I did comparison between a 2008 E90 335i with n54, 2011 E90 335i N55, 2014 E89 Z4 N54, and 2017 F87 M2 with N55. For continental belts, they have a metric part number for example 4070732. The digits break it down by:
4: multi-v belt
07: how many ribs
073: the inches in length as a whole number
2: how many inches in decimal or left over from an inch. 073.2 inches for the last 4 digits.

Found these lengths through the Continental parts catalog under their attribute section:

Continental Online Parts Catalog

ShowMeTheParts is changing how the world finds replacement parts for their vehicles.

www.showmetheparts.com

Here are the lengths:

2008 E90 335i N54: 7 rib with 73.03 inches length
2011 E90 335i N55: 7 rib with 73.23 inches length
2014 E89 Z4 N54: 7 rib with 57.99 inches length
2017 F87 M2 N55: 8 rib with 54.72 inches length


I might have to use the string/wire method, but we have a spring-loaded tensioner. How would I take that into account?

 

[CalvinNismo]

Nice digging! If someone can lend a spare pair of hands, you want to measure the route length of both extremes of the tensioner and you want somewhere in the middle really.

 

[Dynamics99]

That's on the back burner for now. Stuck installing the front crankshaft seal since I do not have the tool. The seal is almost in and I was using the old seal with tape on the old seal edge to prevent marring the new one. Am I forced to get the install tool or is there another hillbilly way to do it? Have like 3-4 mm to go before it sits below flush.

 

[Dynamics99]

Hi,

I'm ready to drop the engine back in. I have left the manual trans in the car. Can I mate the input shaft to the clutch and flywheel without pulling the trans out?

 

[wheela]

That's on the back burner for now. Stuck installing the front crankshaft seal since I do not have the tool. The seal is almost in and I was using the old seal with tape on the old seal edge to prevent marring the new one. Am I forced to get the install tool or is there another hillbilly way to do it? Have like 3-4 mm to go before it sits below flush.

Did you end up getting the install tool, or were you able to improvise something?

 

[Dynamics99]

Did you end up getting the install tool, or were you able to improvise something?

I did. I scored a deal on ebay for $75 for the DP tool but the stud with the long thread broke when I went to push the seal in further (maybe I should have used a counter hold or something). I was sad but with the big cap that goes over the stud I was able to mallet the seal nicely. Gotta see if I can fix the stud. Was able to apply the primer and a volkswagon RTV bond. I put the electrical harnesses and attached the sensors. Also torqued down the crankshaft pulley, tensioner pulley, and the pulley to the right of the crankshaft.

 

[F30Delvi]

The post has been amazing with information.

with my luck, I did a huge job on the valve cover and oil cooler housing and didn't prime the engine before starting. a week later, the engine seized up with copper all over the oil filter.

Though about just getting the bare lower 3/4of the engine, which would be without the head of an F15 N55. and just switch everything else over.

Real question is, could I do that to my 2012 F30 335i?

Thanks all.

 

[simp18d]

There are differences you need to aware of. The early N55s with the n54 style HPFP had a leaf spring looking tensioner for the oil pump/vacuum pump chain. The later N55s with the piston style pumps have a hydraulic tensioner.

Hi Silverstreak, what solution did you come up with to run the car? I'm in a similar situation swapped a 2010 n55 into my 2013 n55 and running its dme and cas. Hence its in limp mode. Is ut possible to epigram my 2013 dme to run. On th 2010 program/tune that way it does need to read the vaccum pump/hpfp camshaft sensor?

 

[Ali_X]

Hello everyone,
I had a 335i f30 Xdrive 2014 (N55 EWG) for really cheap, as I like challenges and originality and also I have the possibility to get an M3 F80 engine (S55).

So I intend to swap the N55 for the S55 but keep the Xdrive and the ZF8 gearbox and reflash it with XHP.

I have several questions:
-I'm going to keep the oil pan from the N55 and put it in the S55 but I'm going to have to remove the secondary oil pump. Is there any way of keeping it?

I have heard that the DMEs are very similar and that many of the tables are common and that it is possible to activate or deactivate the options in the tables depending on whether the engine is the N55 or the S55.

-Can I use the DME from the N55 and plug it into the S55 so that the car still thinks it is the N55, if YES:
How do I manage the two HPFPs on the S55, should I replace them with a single HPTF (B58 TU with a custom plate)?

-The same goes for the water pumps, can I delete the electronics and keep the mechanical pump only?

-If I use a 2015 Alpina B3 DME can I keep the twin turbo or will I have to use a single turbo like on the original N55?

-What about the drive-shaft, can I keep mine or retrofit the M3's? Will I need to modify the DME?

-Can I also retrofit a virginised M3 cluster?

If the DME of the N55 is not pluggable on the S55, what would be the best solution to keep things as much OEM as possible?

Thank you in advance