Technical N54 Phenolic fibre fuel rail gaskets.

The Convert

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Ceramic oating the turbo manifolds, fuel rail and inlet manifold deflects and keeps heat in where needs it.

There is lots of room for improvement on these motors.
Ideally you would want to put an ir reflecting coating on the charge pipe and possibly a heat dissipating coating on the fuel rail since pressurizing fluid raises the temp, but it would depend on the temp of the fuel compared to the air moving over it under the hood. If air isn’t hotter, a reflective coating would be ideal. You want to keep ceramic coatings to hot components and ir reflecting on cold ones.
 

martymil

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There is no heat on the charge pipe and lots of volume flows through there so just normal powder coating will suffice.

Ceramic coating is better on the fuel rail because once you isolate it from the head the fuel temp is drastically lower, dissipation coating is good to get rid of heat like on the turbo outlet pipe as it draws out heat from the pipe yes it deflects heat too but its a bitch of a coating and scratches very easily. I think ceramic for the fuel rail is much better and more durable.

Ceramic is a good insulator so in deflects heat and keeps the internals cooler as it doesn't let heat pass into the pipe.

Been playing with lots of different types of coatings for the last 3 years and some are just gimmick ones at best, the difference is so minimal
but cost difference is astronomical.
 

The Convert

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There is no heat on the charge pipe and lots of volume flows through there so just normal powder coating will suffice.

Ceramic coating is better on the fuel rail because once you isolate it from the head the fuel temp is drastically lower, dissipation coating is good to get rid of heat like on the turbo outlet pipe as it draws out heat from the pipe yes it deflects heat too but its a bitch of a coating and scratches very easily. I think ceramic for the fuel rail is much better and more durable.

Ceramic is a good insulator so in deflects heat and keeps the internals cooler as it doesn't let heat pass into the pipe.

Been playing with lots of different types of coatings for the last 3 years and some are just gimmick ones at best, the difference is so minimal
but cost difference is astronomical.
Gonna have to disagree with a lot of what you said, having come from spending the last 8.5 years working with commercial and military thermal coatings for one of the largest jet engine companies in the world. You’re mixed bag of results is more likely due to the quality of the coating and it’s application rather than the science behind them.
 

martymil

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And you actually tested these our our cars, you can have all your theory and your military coatings and whilst they maybe good, the 3m coatings are good enough whilst keeping the cost down.

You can disagree with me all you want but I've tested this for a long time before anyone even realised this was an issue.

If you want to go an test it be my guest and get back to us with actuall results tested on our cars but the gains are going to be minimal at best over what I've seen.

I'm not saying they are not better, I'm saying there will be minimal gains.
 

The Convert

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All of the coatings in things like a charge pipe or fuel rail will be pitifully minimal.
 

martymil

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The actual 3m coatings work well just saying going the extra step is pointless like the military grade stuff

They actually stablise the large swings in temps like the fuel rail compared to with no coating.

The charge pipe coating is just purely for looks.

I personally used dissipation coating on my factory modified outlet pipes I use to make especially on the rear stainless pipe.

On the street/race track car we are building things are going to be on another level.
 

matreyia

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The actual 3m coatings work well just saying going the extra step is pointless like the military grade stuff

They actually stablise the large swings in temps like the fuel rail compared to with no coating.

The charge pipe coating is just purely for looks.

I personally used dissipation coating on my factory modified outlet pipes I use to make especially on the rear stainless pipe.

On the street/race track car we are building things are going to be on another level.

Couldn't we wrap the rails with insulation for temporary measure? That seems to be the easiest and least expensive. Maybe thermal adhesive tape or something?
 

martymil

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Look the washers work real well, it"s just an extra step.

Thermal tape in this case wouldn't work very well because the brackets are still fully exposed.

Better of just waiting till you either do a dissipation coating or ceramic coating.

Pick either one they will both work well but there is a big difference in price and durability between the two.
 

iminhell1

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Thought this might be useful and explain a little.
Some of the fuel heating may actually come from the tiny outlet to the injectors.

Actually I need help understanding the BTUH and Gasoline. At first quick look I thought it was 88*F gain. But trying to read a bit more that does not seem correct. But I can't find a real value either. BTUH doesn't seem to be a unit used for Gasoline. It's more for heating fuel oil, natural gas and propane. It does make sense to me that there should be some heat gain from the small orifice size, just a question of how much ...
 

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ShocknAwe

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Thanks @martymil. To make it even easier for those in the US (and who don't use ECS):

8 x phenolic washers either m8 or 5/16 - https://www.ebay.com/itm/100-Tattoo...hers-5-16-Coil-Parts-Made-In-USA/232779584853 (lifetime supply - share with friends)
4 x m7 or 5/16 stainless or equivalent washers - https://www.ebay.com/itm/YOUR-CHOIC...TEEL-DIN-125-METRIC-FLAT-WASHERS/293176283785
4 x m7 n54 turbo manifold studs (11127593376) - https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw-exhaust-manifold-stud-11127593376
4 x m7 inlet manifold nuts (07129905541) - https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw-hex-nut-07129905541
1 x Tube of anti-seize - local parts store

Filippo

Big thanks for this post.
 
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