Jake's Epic BMW 135i Build Thread (5+ Years of Ownership)
- Thread starter suspenceful
- Start date
1 sec def isn't the synchro limit, there are MUCH faster 6mt shifts out there
Yeah, I wasn't sure where he was getting his data from. In my logs, you can use the timestamp value to see that it only took me 0.139 seconds to shift. Timestamp values are 1/10 of a second.
It's been a while since I uploaded a YouTube video, so I gave a brief update on everything about a week ago:
I also uploaded my step-by-step guide to flipping cars, if you're interested in that. It's on my channel as of yesterday!
I also uploaded my step-by-step guide to flipping cars, if you're interested in that. It's on my channel as of yesterday!
Not sure where I said that word, but it must be a Wisconsin thing.
No one here says "vegue" as it sounds in your video. Everyone thinks we say words like "bag" weird too.
@suspenceful what car lift are you going to get? My Atlas BP8000 baseplate lift fits perfectly in my garage. Top 5 best purchases in my life for sure.
I looked into that exact lift, I think it would barely fit. I would have to remeasure. Right now I have access to a lift at the shop that two of my friends and I are renting. If/when we leave the shop, I'll start thinking about installing a lift in my home garage again.
I finally got around to editing/uploading my track footage from Road America!
This was my first time doing anything like this and I didn't have an instructor so be easy on me...
This was my first time doing anything like this and I didn't have an instructor so be easy on me...
A quick 6 minute video of me installing a custom carbon fiber steering wheel. I'm not usually one for expensive aesthetic mods, especially for the interior, but I'm glad I pulled the trigger on this. I'd love to hear what you guys think!
Looked like a ton of fun, although some of the others did drive a bit, lets say, opportunistic... This is clearly a very WOT heavy, fast and long circuit. Youtube is blocked in China, and my vpn stopped working before I was able to watch the last five minutes of the video. Was there any conclusions on how your temps were doing on this track? Particularly coolant. You might also want to consider race brake pads next time.
Temps were fine, no overheating at all! The brakes were definitely getting spongey and soft though. I think better fluid and pads would've helped.
I've been itching to get some good photos of the 135i now that the weather has started to warm up. So I ran it through the wash and grabbed my camera. My girlfriend was looking gorgeous as always, so I had to jump in a few photos. Here is what I ended up with...
Update coming soon with a new clutch
Update coming soon with a new clutch
Welp, my Spec Stage 3+ clutch started to slip after only 5k miles at 750whp so I was forced to search for another new clutch. The Spec clutch was only rated at 671 tq, I thought it would be capable of holding more power. My search of 1000+ tq rated clutches led me to research twin disc options for the N54.
As some of you might be aware, there is a new twin disc clutch option for those of us with manual N54's. Xtreme Performance Clutch (or XClutch) is an Australian company that specializes in clutches for performance vehicles overseas. With the recent group buy, I decided to give their clutch a shot given the price is much cheaper than the Motiv or MFactory twin discs.
For more detailed information, check out my complete blog post about this topic. I also included a video at the bottom of this post that shows the noise and pedal engagement.
I ordered the ceramic version of the clutch, which is capable of holding more torque and is meant for track-driven cars. There is also an organic version for those of you who might not need the 1350 tq rating.
I received the clutch a few days after ordering and was very impressed with the quality! It includes the clutch & flywheel assemblies, metal throwout bearing, pilot bearing, flywheel bolts, machined alignment tool and locktite.
The recommended break-in mileage is 1000 kilometers (621 miles). I noticed that the driveability gets better and all noises quiet down a little after putting on some miles. It will never be as quiet or as smooth as a stock clutch... but it's much more capable than the stock clutch.
Noises:
If you install the metal throwout bearing that is included with the kit, it will produce a metallic whirring noise when the clutch is depressed. This does not bother me, but it might bother some of you who don't like noise. Please watch my video at the bottom of this post to hear the noise.
The metal throwout bearing included with the kit is recommended and more robust, but this is the OEM-style throwout bearing if you'd like to avoid the noise: https://bit.ly/2Hy6rX3
As with any SMFW or twin disc, you will have low RPM gearbox chatter. While idling and while driving at high load/low RPM, you can hear it. If this bothers you, you will have to stick with an OEM-style DMFW clutch setup. Otherwise, you can raise the idle via MHD to 900 RPMs or so to reduce the chattering.
Driveability:
I knew the ceramic version of the clutch would be a little more difficult to drive than the organic version, so please take that into consideration when reading my review or purchasing the clutch.
The pedal is stiffer/heavier than stock, but not by much. It's effortless to depress, which is good. Engagement doesn't happen until the top of the pedal during release. My stock clutch and my Spec Stage 3+ clutch both engaged a lot closer to the floor, so this took some getting used to. Installing the clutch stop helped, but still has a large area of dead space in the pedal. Again, watch my video at the bottom of this post to see how much dead space there is.
Once the engagement starts, the window is fairly small. You don't have a lot of slipping area, and this can result in a shuttering take-off until you learn the clutch. I've heard that the organic version is a little more forgiving in this sense. The clutch itself is very grabby, just like it should be. I have no concerns about it holding any power I'm capable of making right now (750whp+).
As some of you might be aware, there is a new twin disc clutch option for those of us with manual N54's. Xtreme Performance Clutch (or XClutch) is an Australian company that specializes in clutches for performance vehicles overseas. With the recent group buy, I decided to give their clutch a shot given the price is much cheaper than the Motiv or MFactory twin discs.
For more detailed information, check out my complete blog post about this topic. I also included a video at the bottom of this post that shows the noise and pedal engagement.
I ordered the ceramic version of the clutch, which is capable of holding more torque and is meant for track-driven cars. There is also an organic version for those of you who might not need the 1350 tq rating.
I received the clutch a few days after ordering and was very impressed with the quality! It includes the clutch & flywheel assemblies, metal throwout bearing, pilot bearing, flywheel bolts, machined alignment tool and locktite.
The recommended break-in mileage is 1000 kilometers (621 miles). I noticed that the driveability gets better and all noises quiet down a little after putting on some miles. It will never be as quiet or as smooth as a stock clutch... but it's much more capable than the stock clutch.
Noises:
If you install the metal throwout bearing that is included with the kit, it will produce a metallic whirring noise when the clutch is depressed. This does not bother me, but it might bother some of you who don't like noise. Please watch my video at the bottom of this post to hear the noise.
The metal throwout bearing included with the kit is recommended and more robust, but this is the OEM-style throwout bearing if you'd like to avoid the noise: https://bit.ly/2Hy6rX3
As with any SMFW or twin disc, you will have low RPM gearbox chatter. While idling and while driving at high load/low RPM, you can hear it. If this bothers you, you will have to stick with an OEM-style DMFW clutch setup. Otherwise, you can raise the idle via MHD to 900 RPMs or so to reduce the chattering.
Driveability:
I knew the ceramic version of the clutch would be a little more difficult to drive than the organic version, so please take that into consideration when reading my review or purchasing the clutch.
The pedal is stiffer/heavier than stock, but not by much. It's effortless to depress, which is good. Engagement doesn't happen until the top of the pedal during release. My stock clutch and my Spec Stage 3+ clutch both engaged a lot closer to the floor, so this took some getting used to. Installing the clutch stop helped, but still has a large area of dead space in the pedal. Again, watch my video at the bottom of this post to see how much dead space there is.
Once the engagement starts, the window is fairly small. You don't have a lot of slipping area, and this can result in a shuttering take-off until you learn the clutch. I've heard that the organic version is a little more forgiving in this sense. The clutch itself is very grabby, just like it should be. I have no concerns about it holding any power I'm capable of making right now (750whp+).
Same location, two different lenses
Follow me on Instagram for more photo content: https://instagram.com/jakespence
Follow me on Instagram for more photo content: https://instagram.com/jakespence
Lol, she does get a little annoyed sometimes when I spend all weekend with the racecar...
As I continue to work on my BMWs, I find myself constantly adding things to the garage to optimize my work space. Since buying the house four years ago, I transformed the 750 sq/ft garage into my ultimate hangout space. In my mind, the only thing missing was a lift. Until I found out about the MaxJax lift system. I have no affiliation with MaxJax, but everything about this lift as been great so far and I want to share my experience.
I had a tough time finding a 2-post lift that would fit in my garage with 8 ft. 7 in. (105″) garage ceilings. All of the 2-post options I found had a minimum column height of 9 ft. or 10 ft., which wouldn’t fit without modifying the ceiling. I didn’t want a scissor lift or a 4-post lift. Then I found the the MaxJax, which has short, portable columns.
In its highest position, the hydraulic cylinders rise up to 89″ with a lift height of 45″ (or 48″ with 3″ adapters)! This allows plenty of clearance between the columns and the ceiling, while offering 4 ft. of working space under the car. The only limitation is the height of whatever vehicle goes on the lift.
Standard MaxJax Features
Installation Guide & Video
The included installation guide is pretty comprehensive, but I made an in-depth video showing you how to install the lift in your home garage. I also demonstrate how to route the hoses off the ground to keep the mobile power cart out of the way.
4″ of good concrete is required to install this lift. I used the standard anchors that are included with the kit, but some people prefer the epoxy anchors instead. I mounted the columns 125″ apart from each other, measured from the inside edge. This width has allowed me to lift multiple vehicles with various jacking points.
This adjustable creeper is perfect for working under the MaxJax, since it doesn’t lift high enough for you to stand under it. This short oil drain tank comes in very handy when changing oil or other fluids. I’ve used these short tripod stands when doing suspension work or to help support the car. It is the perfect lift for the at-home DIYer.
I also have a more detailed write-up on my blog that explains the most efficient installation process, with links to all of the tools and accessories that you'll need. Read it here: https://my1series.com/2019/06/13/how-to-install-maxjax-lift-in-home-garage-review-mods/
I would love to hear your thoughts and comments!
I had a tough time finding a 2-post lift that would fit in my garage with 8 ft. 7 in. (105″) garage ceilings. All of the 2-post options I found had a minimum column height of 9 ft. or 10 ft., which wouldn’t fit without modifying the ceiling. I didn’t want a scissor lift or a 4-post lift. Then I found the the MaxJax, which has short, portable columns.
In its highest position, the hydraulic cylinders rise up to 89″ with a lift height of 45″ (or 48″ with 3″ adapters)! This allows plenty of clearance between the columns and the ceiling, while offering 4 ft. of working space under the car. The only limitation is the height of whatever vehicle goes on the lift.
Standard MaxJax Features
- Low ceiling height friendly
- Regular 110v electrical plug (no 220v required)
- 6,000 lb. lifting capacity
- Semi-portable lift columns
- Adjustable base-plate width
- 4″ minimum concrete required
Installation Guide & Video
The included installation guide is pretty comprehensive, but I made an in-depth video showing you how to install the lift in your home garage. I also demonstrate how to route the hoses off the ground to keep the mobile power cart out of the way.
4″ of good concrete is required to install this lift. I used the standard anchors that are included with the kit, but some people prefer the epoxy anchors instead. I mounted the columns 125″ apart from each other, measured from the inside edge. This width has allowed me to lift multiple vehicles with various jacking points.
This adjustable creeper is perfect for working under the MaxJax, since it doesn’t lift high enough for you to stand under it. This short oil drain tank comes in very handy when changing oil or other fluids. I’ve used these short tripod stands when doing suspension work or to help support the car. It is the perfect lift for the at-home DIYer.
I also have a more detailed write-up on my blog that explains the most efficient installation process, with links to all of the tools and accessories that you'll need. Read it here: https://my1series.com/2019/06/13/how-to-install-maxjax-lift-in-home-garage-review-mods/
I would love to hear your thoughts and comments!
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