Before my winter road trip I was able to get some maintenance items addressed but not all. Torque converter and suspension still on to do list. Here is what has been accomplished.
- Front 3.15 installed, 4WD flashed
- Leaking vacuum pump cover resolved, hopefully for good this time
- Leaking coolant line deleted
- New brake pads
- Oil change
- 2020 iDrive maps update
- Driver door handle replaced
"Wrench Mode"
3.15 front diff serviced with fresh fluid, axle seal, and o-ring
The front diff swap was fairly straight forward, however some bonehead wrenching added a lot of unnecessary frustration. When lowering the subframe I assume my mistake was not dropping it little by little evenly which made the the subframe get hung up on the locating pins on the frame and it wouldn't hang freely. It took me WAY TOO LONG to figure this out but once I did a gentle tap on the subframe from a sledge hammer and iron rod from above freed up the subframe. By this point I had already removed the driver engine mount and mount bracket which was easy enough BUT getting the 3 bolts that hold the bracket to the engine block turned out to be a blind, awkward, and frustrating endeavor. patience and presistence prevailed but hours or time were lost. Live and learn .....or make mistakes, forget, and repeat. lol
The front diff does NOT come out this way
...it comes out this way
Driveway divas
My multi-use BMW special tool, great for propping up the passenger side front axle during front diff removal and great for supporting the subframe.
While under the vehicle I noticed some dried coolant on the top of the engine splash panel. Turns out it was caused by my own carelessness when deleting my EGR cooler and looping my coolant system, tension pushed the hose up towards the belt which was able to rub (I assume under high engine load), it looks like I caught it just in time since this could ruin a road trip very quickly.
The damaged coolant line is one that Ts into another coolant pipe between the radiator and the engine and then runs down and up behind the low pressure turbo and goes into the engine block. Doing further research it looks like the 335D doesn't have this coolant line at all, the engine block may not even have the cooling port. Instead of replacing the damaged coolant line I deleted it all together by buying a coolant blind plug for the front connection and a Vibrant reinforced coolant cap for the rear connection. If/when I remove the low pressure turbo at that time I will remove the engine block coolant connection and convert it to a plug by welding it shut.
Front connection BEFORE
Front connection AFTER w/ blind plug
Coolant line out
HPS caps
Rear connection BEFORE
Rear connection AFTER
My ATM ASV elbow had a fine oil residue on it. It was a bit odd since the silicone was covered in it but there was no obvious leak points at connections.
I removed, cleaned, and inspected the elbow and found this on the on the underside where the silicone bends. I haven't noticed any drop in boost or weird boost-leak noises (but I haven't data logged) but I assume there is a tiny hole allowing the oil vapor to escape. I haven't had the best luck with the ATM charge pipe connections so this is more motivation to build a custom charge pipe setup.
Vacuum pump cap was continuing to leak after a new set of o-rings so I cleaned everything and applied thin layer of silicone for added security.
Driver door handle had an annoying paint chip ever since we got the vehicle and I finally found a comfort access door handle in PGM for a reasonable price on eBay. It's not flawless but it's in much better condition than the old handle.
Clearance between ASV elbow and radiator shroud was too close for comfort so clearanced it a bit
BEFORE
AFTER
With the front diff installed I flashed back to 4WD
While updating the maps it was a 1+ hour upload so I hooked up the beast, this things can hold a perfect 14.3v for a full vehicle (all modules) overnight flash so it's not breaking a sweat here
My Hawk ceramic pads were squealing like mofos and the after hearing my complains the company sent me a set of 5.0 pads to try out. Their rep recommended I bed them aggressively and get them hot enough to smell. No problem, after a good thrashing they were smoking and I used an infrared thermometer to check rotor temps (400f) Potato pic
If these 5.0 pads don't work well (and don't squeal) then I have some EBC reds to try.
Cleaned and fitted with the cargo box and bike rack!
The cargo box is a life saver. It fit 2 snowboards, boots, bindings, snow gear, snow shoes, hiking shoes. MTB gear, helmets, bike rack, misc clothing, bike tools, misc tools, and more.