Technical AzNdevil's RHD 335 6MT Build Thread
- Thread starter AzNdevil
- Start date
both sides (the hk government and protesters) cant and wont back down and come to an agreement so its not going to end any time soon...
for the police brutality, it is wrong that they are randomly beating up in attempts to catch or scare people but...
what else can they do in this situation? its not like they can sit and watch as if nothing happened
i dont really see how asking for democracy from a communist backed government is going to work...
if you ask me, hong kong will eventually lose its so called "one country-two systems" anyways so its just happening sooner than later
the world doesnt stop for anyone so... find a way to cope with it or go somewhere else
its fine to have personal beliefs and try to fight for what you want by any means necessary, as long as you accept the consequences for what you have done and not ask for amnesty as a demand
also, dont trust everything you see on tv, everyone has their stance and agenda regarding this topic and tends to bend the facts to their liking
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Thanks for your comments. I agree for the most part, it is inevitable(insert agent smith voice) and asking for democracy from a communist backed government is not going to work out very well.
I wonder if the UN would step in if there was a human right violation like Tienanmen square or something. My guess is no as no one seems to want to deal with China(except Trump) and are fine buying good for cheap while they rape everyone's IP.
I wonder if the UN would step in if there was a human right violation like Tienanmen square or something. My guess is no as no one seems to want to deal with China(except Trump) and are fine buying good for cheap while they rape everyone's IP.
Its nothing but a cascade of issues once you hit a certain point it seems like. But the recordings you have from the knock sensors is really sweet, in fact there might even been a little money in making a set of cans for this car.
highly doubt the UN or US will step in... human rights is something most developed western countries take for granted but its a luxury to some people in terms of what they can and cant do which has its own goods and bads
the way i see it is.. lots of l people these days tend to monkey see monkey do especially with sensitive topics like politics... people dont want/like to be on the other side and get singled out
trump is another can of worms... he knows what hes doing and he can get away with it most of the time... from my pov, the whole world needs each other to survive, live and prosper
leave the r&d to western countries and mass market copying/refining to china, best of both worlds.
people that will appreciate quality and well built products will buy the original anyways...
i have lots of access to these knockoff stuff yet i wont use most of them myself or recommend it to others... they just dont look safe or is more hassle than saving x amount of $$
yea so many bugs i have to kink out lol... sucks to be me but i hope its worth it in the end
the hardware to do all this is available on ebay... might make a guide for it when and if i have time...its there somewhere on the internet
another short update
- replaced clutch master and slave cyclinder to isolate clutch slipping issues, no go
- replaced clutch with a single plate sprung ceramic disc from southbend, everythings fine now
- as confirmed by southbend rep, southbend pp = modded saches racing pp
- starter died again, somehow the starter gear chipped badly in a month
- need to rebuild my front ap radi-cal 5000r 9660 calipers, pistons starting to drag on the disc and its annoying as fuck
- found some time to tune my car again, hpfp starts to tank and afr goes lean if i go over 18psi of boost
- two things left to point fingers at, not enough lpfp, stock fpr too restrictive
- i am cheap and dont want to buy a stage 3 kit from PR, dont want to buy a bpm4 or hobbs switch to run the pump
- so.... i am planning to mod my current PR stage 2 to kit to fit another walbro 450 pump and build a custom controller to run it
- just ordered all the parts i need but it will take a few weeks to come in, international shipping sucks
testing done so far
- found the canbus id and byte to grab the pump duty cycle
- verified findings with tool32 and compared it with my old canbus log dumps
- replaced clutch master and slave cyclinder to isolate clutch slipping issues, no go
- replaced clutch with a single plate sprung ceramic disc from southbend, everythings fine now
- as confirmed by southbend rep, southbend pp = modded saches racing pp
- starter died again, somehow the starter gear chipped badly in a month
- need to rebuild my front ap radi-cal 5000r 9660 calipers, pistons starting to drag on the disc and its annoying as fuck
- found some time to tune my car again, hpfp starts to tank and afr goes lean if i go over 18psi of boost
- two things left to point fingers at, not enough lpfp, stock fpr too restrictive
- i am cheap and dont want to buy a stage 3 kit from PR, dont want to buy a bpm4 or hobbs switch to run the pump
- so.... i am planning to mod my current PR stage 2 to kit to fit another walbro 450 pump and build a custom controller to run it
- just ordered all the parts i need but it will take a few weeks to come in, international shipping sucks
testing done so far
- found the canbus id and byte to grab the pump duty cycle
- verified findings with tool32 and compared it with my old canbus log dumps
some status updates
- some parts are in, fuel pump and battery distribution block power plug are stuck at the post office due to riots in hong kong so i cant be fucked to go pick it up
- some progress on the software side of the fuel pump controller
initial plans for the fuel pump controller
- esp32 based with a sn65hvd230 canbus transceiver
- written based on arduino framework
- fuel pump powered through pwm signal to h-bridge motor driver module
basic functions of the controller
- read fuel pump duty cycle from canbus
- scale output fuel pump duty cycle if needed
- control/power the second fuel pump
- connectable through wifi, log and adjust output fuel pump duty cycle through web browser
dont want to scope creep so i will keep it simple for now...otherwise i will never finish it
- some parts are in, fuel pump and battery distribution block power plug are stuck at the post office due to riots in hong kong so i cant be fucked to go pick it up
- some progress on the software side of the fuel pump controller
initial plans for the fuel pump controller
- esp32 based with a sn65hvd230 canbus transceiver
- written based on arduino framework
- fuel pump powered through pwm signal to h-bridge motor driver module
basic functions of the controller
- read fuel pump duty cycle from canbus
- scale output fuel pump duty cycle if needed
- control/power the second fuel pump
- connectable through wifi, log and adjust output fuel pump duty cycle through web browser
dont want to scope creep so i will keep it simple for now...otherwise i will never finish it
quick update
- the orings i ordered fit perfectly
- dremeled a second slot into my pr pump hanger
- found out i had the F0267 ( low pressure version of walbro 450)
- attempted to mod the bypass valve so its the same as the high pressure one but drilled through the bypass valve by accident so... my pump is junk
http://foreinnovations.blogspot.com/2014/02/increase-fuel-pump-capacity-50-for-free.html?m=1
- since i slotted the hanger... i cut the neck off my old pump and plugged it with a screw
- new pump did not make much of a difference, hpfp pressure still tanked in high rpms
controller side of things
- software side pretty much done, being load tested at the moment, scaling works...
- hardware side im still ordering bits and pieces but i tested the whole setup with a 12v led light and it works
- need to add in sleep mode and a relay to cut everything off when the car is off...
- might add a current meter and see how much power the pump is drawing
- the orings i ordered fit perfectly
- dremeled a second slot into my pr pump hanger
- found out i had the F0267 ( low pressure version of walbro 450)
- attempted to mod the bypass valve so its the same as the high pressure one but drilled through the bypass valve by accident so... my pump is junk
http://foreinnovations.blogspot.com/2014/02/increase-fuel-pump-capacity-50-for-free.html?m=1
- since i slotted the hanger... i cut the neck off my old pump and plugged it with a screw
- new pump did not make much of a difference, hpfp pressure still tanked in high rpms
controller side of things
- software side pretty much done, being load tested at the moment, scaling works...
- hardware side im still ordering bits and pieces but i tested the whole setup with a 12v led light and it works
- need to add in sleep mode and a relay to cut everything off when the car is off...
- might add a current meter and see how much power the pump is drawing
Attachments
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life and work has been busy so i didnt update or do much to my car...
fuel hat was causing me shitloads of trouble, couldnt get the electrical connections for the second pump to seal well enough
fuel was leaking from the tophat once i completely fueled up the tank, found out after i got home after fueling up
had to drive 100km so i can open the tophat without fuel spilling out, replaced with used tophat until i have time to work on it again
lots of stupid shit has happened...heres a short list
left side axle was loose and disconnected from the diff, apparently they weren't tightened down enough, car towed
right side axle came loose during wot in 1st gear, wheel locked, axle shreded, took hard brake line and handbrake wire along with it, car towed again
car isnt idling properly, replaced bank 2 injectors, sort of solved the issue but its still on and off
something is leaking oil, can't exactly see where its coming from
oil feed and drain line gasket replaced, still leaking, going to redo my valve cover gasket and hope it goes away
oil filter housing gasket slightly leaking, will replace it when i can be bothered
random white smoke clouds from exhaust, not sure if its related to valve cover gasket
going to plug head ports and vent the low side pcv to oil catchcan when i do my valve cover gasket so i can isolate pcv system
if this doesnt work then its either valve stem seals or turbos.................no fun at all
fuel hat was causing me shitloads of trouble, couldnt get the electrical connections for the second pump to seal well enough
fuel was leaking from the tophat once i completely fueled up the tank, found out after i got home after fueling up
had to drive 100km so i can open the tophat without fuel spilling out, replaced with used tophat until i have time to work on it again
lots of stupid shit has happened...heres a short list
left side axle was loose and disconnected from the diff, apparently they weren't tightened down enough, car towed
right side axle came loose during wot in 1st gear, wheel locked, axle shreded, took hard brake line and handbrake wire along with it, car towed again
car isnt idling properly, replaced bank 2 injectors, sort of solved the issue but its still on and off
something is leaking oil, can't exactly see where its coming from
oil feed and drain line gasket replaced, still leaking, going to redo my valve cover gasket and hope it goes away
oil filter housing gasket slightly leaking, will replace it when i can be bothered
random white smoke clouds from exhaust, not sure if its related to valve cover gasket
going to plug head ports and vent the low side pcv to oil catchcan when i do my valve cover gasket so i can isolate pcv system
if this doesnt work then its either valve stem seals or turbos.................no fun at all
my suspension has been leaking since last year...everything else is fine though as far as i can tell
i haven't driven my car all that much though... 12k km only but i'd say half of it was for road tuning and spirited drives
ok let see...quick update...i will add pics later if i can be bothered
brakes
had my front ap 9660 calipers rebuilt cause the pistons were starting to stick. after waiting for a month and a bit...i got my cl brakes rc6 front and rc5e rear pads!
thoughts so far after 1000km: they arent cheap but they are well worth the price, better than all the other stuff i have used
cold bite is awesome. does take a bit to get used to, its similar to hawk dtc-60 pads i have tried
hot bite still powerful enough to stop the car when the brakes are hot... however, due to the lower temp range i backed off before they got too hot
i'd say the stopping power is similar/better than ferodo ds3000 before they start to overheat
one thing for sure, they are better than the project mu 999 pads i had which had no cold bite and once the pads reach ~50% the car doesnt really want to stop cold or hot
however, cold bite modulation does take some getting used to. it bites pretty hard and can catch you by surprise
hot bite modulation, project mu 999 is better in this aspect by
---
clutch
my southbend clutch is slipping again............luckily they owned up and are willing to refund me for the original clutch
i have already spent 900$ usd for the southbend clutch, 500$ usd for a ceramic clutch disc, 1000% usd for two clutch jobs trying to get it to work
what a waste of money
anyways at least i am getting some of it back... but i will need to figure out how to ship the clutch back...
shipping sucks due to the whole coronavirus situation, my injector refund to fcpeuro is no where to be found
it hasnt arrived and the post office isnt sure either
i just put in an order for a xclutch 9" Twin Disc Rigid Ceramic...let see how this goes
----
suspension
i have removed my AST suspension and put on a set of borrowed KW V2s on my car
again, the thing with shipping. i cant get it out and the KW is shittier than my leaking AST in every aspect
once you get used to good stuff you just cant go back....
@Omar@VaderSolutions my superpro arms might be bent...i might replace them with M3 arms later
mechanic had some trouble getting my car to be aligned perfectly when i put on my borrowed suspension
---
turbos/pcv delete/head port plug
my pure stage 2 DDs are leaking from the CHRA, not sure if its due to PCV issues or oil drainage issues
so....i made the decision to had my head ports plugged.
at this stage, i only have the high side routed to a catchcan and back to the inlet
planning to add the low side recirculation into intake manifold as well but that will have to wait
for metric guys: M5x0.8 tap and M5x5mm head plugs will work
you dont need to tap too far down into the hole. otherwise its a pain in the ass to reach with a 2.5mm allen key and it will be a nightmare to get the locktite on
not sure if this will solve my smoking and turbo leaking issues, time will tell
huge thanks to @doublespaces for spending the time to teach me how this shit works!
---
idling issues
im stumped. i have replaced so many things and its still stumbling sometimes....not sure if its related to the turbo stuff
i really hope its not my engine though. not exactly a great time to shell out for an engine replacement....
brakes
had my front ap 9660 calipers rebuilt cause the pistons were starting to stick. after waiting for a month and a bit...i got my cl brakes rc6 front and rc5e rear pads!
thoughts so far after 1000km: they arent cheap but they are well worth the price, better than all the other stuff i have used
cold bite is awesome. does take a bit to get used to, its similar to hawk dtc-60 pads i have tried
hot bite still powerful enough to stop the car when the brakes are hot... however, due to the lower temp range i backed off before they got too hot
i'd say the stopping power is similar/better than ferodo ds3000 before they start to overheat
one thing for sure, they are better than the project mu 999 pads i had which had no cold bite and once the pads reach ~50% the car doesnt really want to stop cold or hot
however, cold bite modulation does take some getting used to. it bites pretty hard and can catch you by surprise
hot bite modulation, project mu 999 is better in this aspect by
---
clutch
my southbend clutch is slipping again............luckily they owned up and are willing to refund me for the original clutch
i have already spent 900$ usd for the southbend clutch, 500$ usd for a ceramic clutch disc, 1000% usd for two clutch jobs trying to get it to work
what a waste of money
anyways at least i am getting some of it back... but i will need to figure out how to ship the clutch back...
shipping sucks due to the whole coronavirus situation, my injector refund to fcpeuro is no where to be found
it hasnt arrived and the post office isnt sure either
i just put in an order for a xclutch 9" Twin Disc Rigid Ceramic...let see how this goes
----
suspension
i have removed my AST suspension and put on a set of borrowed KW V2s on my car
again, the thing with shipping. i cant get it out and the KW is shittier than my leaking AST in every aspect
once you get used to good stuff you just cant go back....
@Omar@VaderSolutions my superpro arms might be bent...i might replace them with M3 arms later
mechanic had some trouble getting my car to be aligned perfectly when i put on my borrowed suspension
---
turbos/pcv delete/head port plug
my pure stage 2 DDs are leaking from the CHRA, not sure if its due to PCV issues or oil drainage issues
so....i made the decision to had my head ports plugged.
at this stage, i only have the high side routed to a catchcan and back to the inlet
planning to add the low side recirculation into intake manifold as well but that will have to wait
for metric guys: M5x0.8 tap and M5x5mm head plugs will work
you dont need to tap too far down into the hole. otherwise its a pain in the ass to reach with a 2.5mm allen key and it will be a nightmare to get the locktite on
not sure if this will solve my smoking and turbo leaking issues, time will tell
huge thanks to @doublespaces for spending the time to teach me how this shit works!
---
idling issues
im stumped. i have replaced so many things and its still stumbling sometimes....not sure if its related to the turbo stuff
i really hope its not my engine though. not exactly a great time to shell out for an engine replacement....
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Time for a long overdue update...
Lets see...suspension out and packed but i can't ship it due to covid-19
head ports tapped, aluminium foil tray idea from @doublespaces was awesome! didnt get a pic of it but just make a box and stuff it into the hole to catch all the metal shavings, almost dropped a plug into the engine after applying loctite to it, luckily my garbage bag wrap caught it...
RB high flow oil drains arrived and installed, thanks to rob from rb turbo, parts got here pretty fast
i sent a email to pure and asked if my turbo needs a rebuild, they claimed oil leakage from this location is due to oil drain issues/pcv issues
without pcv delete, my car would smoke occasionally whenever it wants, after pcv delete, car only smokes when it is idling downhill
hope the high flow rb drains fixes the issue completely.
disassembled my front turbo to see if any damage was done, no shaft play, no oil in outlet or downpipe, put it back together and send it
Xclutch 9" Twin Disc Rigid Ceramic arrived and installed, thanks to @MFactory to their excellent customer service despite my numerous questions
initial thoughts
kits is very complete, comes with everything you need to do the install except for loctite 243 for the flywheel bolts
i shouldve just went for this clutch in the very beginning.....not sure if it will hold but at least its a lot lighter than the southbend i had
i think it might be lighter than stock if my memory serves me correct....engagement point is very very low, will need some time to get used to it
it is grabby but definitely streetable IMO...for comparison, i'd say its similar to my southbend which i used on the street for ~8000KM
the 'whirrling' sound is quieter than let say ORC or Exedy, theres no smfw rattle like my mfactory but the flywheel is definitely heavier than the mfactory one.
my southbend stage 3 endurance clutch with an upgraded sprung ceramic disc + mfactory smfw assembly.
previously my kevlar disc started slipping after 3000 km, proper run in for 1000km has been done. disc had virtually no wear at all (18 PSI pure stage 2 DD on 93 pump)
upgraded ceramic disc has around 5000 km on it before it started slipping, proper run in for 1000km has also been done. flywheel has been resurfaced before upgrading to the ceramic disc (21 PSI pure stage 2 DD on 93 pump)
clutch assembly, clutch disc and mfactory smfw all have grooves in them. i dont think it has anything to do with the mfactory smfw
most likely there were issues with the stack height/clearance for the clutch assmebly and the disc
anyways, like i said, i appreciate the customer service from southbend for giving me a partial refund on the clutch
i am still out a lot of money on labor and the mfactory smfw.......
at this stage, as long the clutch doesnt slip, i dont care about anything else. i am sick of wasting money on stupid things like this
now i just need to wait for covid-19 to pass over so i can ship my suspension off to get rebuilt and refund for my clutch
still need to rework my whole pcv delete setup, will take some pics of it when i do
Lets see...suspension out and packed but i can't ship it due to covid-19
head ports tapped, aluminium foil tray idea from @doublespaces was awesome! didnt get a pic of it but just make a box and stuff it into the hole to catch all the metal shavings, almost dropped a plug into the engine after applying loctite to it, luckily my garbage bag wrap caught it...
RB high flow oil drains arrived and installed, thanks to rob from rb turbo, parts got here pretty fast
i sent a email to pure and asked if my turbo needs a rebuild, they claimed oil leakage from this location is due to oil drain issues/pcv issues
without pcv delete, my car would smoke occasionally whenever it wants, after pcv delete, car only smokes when it is idling downhill
hope the high flow rb drains fixes the issue completely.
disassembled my front turbo to see if any damage was done, no shaft play, no oil in outlet or downpipe, put it back together and send it
Xclutch 9" Twin Disc Rigid Ceramic arrived and installed, thanks to @MFactory to their excellent customer service despite my numerous questions
initial thoughts
kits is very complete, comes with everything you need to do the install except for loctite 243 for the flywheel bolts
i shouldve just went for this clutch in the very beginning.....not sure if it will hold but at least its a lot lighter than the southbend i had
i think it might be lighter than stock if my memory serves me correct....engagement point is very very low, will need some time to get used to it
it is grabby but definitely streetable IMO...for comparison, i'd say its similar to my southbend which i used on the street for ~8000KM
the 'whirrling' sound is quieter than let say ORC or Exedy, theres no smfw rattle like my mfactory but the flywheel is definitely heavier than the mfactory one.
my southbend stage 3 endurance clutch with an upgraded sprung ceramic disc + mfactory smfw assembly.
previously my kevlar disc started slipping after 3000 km, proper run in for 1000km has been done. disc had virtually no wear at all (18 PSI pure stage 2 DD on 93 pump)
upgraded ceramic disc has around 5000 km on it before it started slipping, proper run in for 1000km has also been done. flywheel has been resurfaced before upgrading to the ceramic disc (21 PSI pure stage 2 DD on 93 pump)
clutch assembly, clutch disc and mfactory smfw all have grooves in them. i dont think it has anything to do with the mfactory smfw
most likely there were issues with the stack height/clearance for the clutch assmebly and the disc
anyways, like i said, i appreciate the customer service from southbend for giving me a partial refund on the clutch
i am still out a lot of money on labor and the mfactory smfw.......
at this stage, as long the clutch doesnt slip, i dont care about anything else. i am sick of wasting money on stupid things like this
now i just need to wait for covid-19 to pass over so i can ship my suspension off to get rebuilt and refund for my clutch
still need to rework my whole pcv delete setup, will take some pics of it when i do
Attachments
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i take what i said about the clutch back, its a pain to drive on the streets...but it does bite hard!
i am 600/1000KM break in and its like an on off switch... there is smfw rattle at 700rpm idle
tried to start on a hill while raining... clutch bite and tire slipped, dsc kicked in and i stalled....
i am 600/1000KM break in and its like an on off switch... there is smfw rattle at 700rpm idle
tried to start on a hill while raining... clutch bite and tire slipped, dsc kicked in and i stalled....
so...i have shipped off my ast shocks to get rebuilt
and got taxed 1100USD by the US government........
they are on the way back to me now and i have bought some new springs this time
going to test out 550#/800# this time to see if i can get power down on the ground better and better cornering
it will probably september before i have everything put in my car as i also have an order with ecstuning ETA august 31 for some engine mounts, vtt engine mount spacer block and turner monoball control arms
also need to order some rear shock top mount bushings and considering if i should go with a solid mount for the bottom...
and got taxed 1100USD by the US government........
they are on the way back to me now and i have bought some new springs this time
going to test out 550#/800# this time to see if i can get power down on the ground better and better cornering
it will probably september before i have everything put in my car as i also have an order with ecstuning ETA august 31 for some engine mounts, vtt engine mount spacer block and turner monoball control arms
also need to order some rear shock top mount bushings and considering if i should go with a solid mount for the bottom...
they based it on the declared value i think...i had to declare it for insurance purposes and...well it bit me in the ass
i see one reason... im poor and i dont want to spend too much on my car these days
import tax, rebuild, springs, control arms, engine mounts, etc without labor is already 4k USD....
but.....
i got a quote of irp solid rear bottom mounts, 200 euros shipped to hong kong...
and a set of turner solid mounts are 243 usd + shipping....
20220722 What I have done over the past 2 years, Part 1
Got the rebuilt suspension back from RE Suspensions, Ended up going with AKG Solid Mounts
NOTE: Suspension started leaking after ~3 months/2000KM of use
New Spring Setup (Front: 550#, Rear: 800#) I got longer springs so my car wouldn't sit so low especially in the front
Shock Dyno
New Poly Top Mounts, Solid Lower Mounts for the Rear End
Turner Engine Mounts Failed Again, I give up. Replaced with a New Stock Engine Mount + VTT Spacer
LPFP was dropping to 50ish-60psi during WOT. Replaced the pump with a new walbro 450, didn't make any difference
Ripped out the PR Stage 2 LPFP Kit, Replaced with a PFS Kit and a Walbro 535 Pump. No more issues
Shoutout to Chris@PFS for putting up with my questions and delivering a kit that works out of the box
https://performancefuelingsolutions.com/
Took the plunge to go buy another JBBF module to get the electronics side of things for M3 Steering Rack Retrofit to work, this required adding a wire from the obd port to the jbbf for d-can. After wiring and coding everything finally works!
Picked up a M3 Cluster for Dirt Cheap on Ebay, too bad it's in MPH but hey its still cheaper than a stock KPH cluster even if i buy the KPH face for it
Virginizing the Cluster with a R270
Code the Cluster with NCSExpert, and done.
Cluster with KPH Face installed, replacing the face was the easy part, i spent so much time trying to align everything perfekt toolbox its not even funny.
Life got busy, needed a daily driver and i don't want to drive a manual, so the logical decision is to get a 6AT 335
Excuse the Ricey look, I only bought it because of the red interior which i will strip out when i am done with the car
the only mod worth mentioning on this car
Headliner and Sunroof Flap was sagging, had to redo them as the bits of foam was falling onto me everytime i drive it
I will update the rest when i can, iirc i went on a dyno at some point. i was at the dyno place with my friend and the guy gave me a discount to do a few pulls
Got the rebuilt suspension back from RE Suspensions, Ended up going with AKG Solid Mounts
NOTE: Suspension started leaking after ~3 months/2000KM of use
New Spring Setup (Front: 550#, Rear: 800#) I got longer springs so my car wouldn't sit so low especially in the front
Shock Dyno
New Poly Top Mounts, Solid Lower Mounts for the Rear End
Turner Engine Mounts Failed Again, I give up. Replaced with a New Stock Engine Mount + VTT Spacer
LPFP was dropping to 50ish-60psi during WOT. Replaced the pump with a new walbro 450, didn't make any difference
Ripped out the PR Stage 2 LPFP Kit, Replaced with a PFS Kit and a Walbro 535 Pump. No more issues
Shoutout to Chris@PFS for putting up with my questions and delivering a kit that works out of the box
https://performancefuelingsolutions.com/
Took the plunge to go buy another JBBF module to get the electronics side of things for M3 Steering Rack Retrofit to work, this required adding a wire from the obd port to the jbbf for d-can. After wiring and coding everything finally works!
Picked up a M3 Cluster for Dirt Cheap on Ebay, too bad it's in MPH but hey its still cheaper than a stock KPH cluster even if i buy the KPH face for it
Virginizing the Cluster with a R270
Code the Cluster with NCSExpert, and done.
Cluster with KPH Face installed, replacing the face was the easy part, i spent so much time trying to align everything perfekt toolbox its not even funny.
Life got busy, needed a daily driver and i don't want to drive a manual, so the logical decision is to get a 6AT 335
Excuse the Ricey look, I only bought it because of the red interior which i will strip out when i am done with the car
the only mod worth mentioning on this car
Headliner and Sunroof Flap was sagging, had to redo them as the bits of foam was falling onto me everytime i drive it
I will update the rest when i can, iirc i went on a dyno at some point. i was at the dyno place with my friend and the guy gave me a discount to do a few pulls
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