Valve Cover/PCV Confirmation/Question

[derekgates]

I was looking over this again...

I can use -8 AN female to 1/2" barb right angle connectors to go to/from catch cans... (at least, Mishimoto ... not sure about BMS). Use the dual catch cans same as currently but plugging head ports and switching to VTT valve cover.

Am I understanding that right?
I still use the RB PCV and connect the BMS/Mishimoto 'OUT' to the same places but the 'IN' comes from the AN->Barb adaptation from VTT VC?

 

[The Convert]

I was looking over this again...

View attachment 36965

I can use -8 AN female to 1/2" barb right angle connectors to go to/from catch cans... (at least, Mishimoto ... not sure about BMS). Use the dual catch cans same as currently but plugging head ports and switching to VTT valve cover.

Am I understanding that right?
I still use the RB PCV and connect the BMS/Mishimoto 'OUT' to the same places but the 'IN' comes from the AN->Barb adaptation from VTT VC?

Cast VC always $650, or on sale right now?

 

[martymil]

The cast valve cover is great, fitted 2 of them personally but I do prefer the cnc version myself as its much stronger and will never ever fail as its milled out of a single block of alloy, just my 2 cents worth here but I know most are on a budget.

Pick what ever fitting you need to suit your setup, what ever you chose is going to be 1000% stronger and more reliable that stock and flow way better too.

You just cant go wrong with this type of setup and vtt's setup is as simple to put together as lego.

 

[doublespaces]

Can I see photos of your catch can connections now?

I will assume:

You have a flapper valve connected to your stock VC. That flapper has a hose and clamp on it that goes to your BMS can inlet.
The outlet from that BMS can goes to your intake inlet using that U bend hose.
You have the RB external PCV. This is the one with the barb/nipple on it, not the one you put the plastic cap back over. This hose goes to the inlet of your mishimoto can. The outlet of this mishimoto can goes to a fitting that connects to your throttle body.

Assuming the above is true, then you have the typical 'external PCV' setup.

When you buy this new cover you will need:

High Side:
10AN ORB to (5/8"?) hose barb
5/8" heater hose
Flapper valve

Screw the -10 ORB into one of the rear VTT ports. Slide a short run of heater hose over this barb, connect your flapper valve to this hose, and then connect your BMS can to the other end, just like it was originally. So the only difference is how the flapper valve connects to the VC.

Low Side:
10AN ORB to 1/2" barb or whatever works with your current hose.
barb check valve
Screw the 10AN orb into the other port, use some proper fitting heater hose to connect the check valve to this barb, this replaces the PCV valve.
Connect the other end of this check valve to your mishimoto inlet just like you would connect to the barb coming off the stock VC. Make sure you cannot blow into the mishimoto side of the check valve, as you do not want boost from entering the crank case.

I still use the RB PCV and connect the BMS/Mishimoto 'OUT' to the same places but the 'IN' comes from the AN->Barb adaptation from VTT VC?

You do not use the RB PCV valve, because there is not a place to screw it. You use a normal check valve in this case.

You don't have to buy these parts exactly, but I gave you links to reference. The size of the hose, 5/8 or 1/2, I guess thats up to you to figure out what size you need exactly. You don't have to use hose barbs on the low side, this is an opportunity to convert to stainless steel hoses if you wanted. Its more money and more pain to work with and scratch things (they also conduct electricity so keep them away from your battery posts).

So hopefully its clear, the only thing changing is the fittings from the VT to the inlets of both your catch cans. The outlets from your catch cans go to the normal places.

The main take aways:

There is no more RB PCV Valve, you are now using a normal check valve, preferably a very high quality one
The flapper has now lost both ends of its OEM connections, and you'll need to put heater hose on the VC side as well in order to keep it in the system.

 

[derekgates]

The cast valve cover is great, fitted 2 of them personally but I do prefer the cnc version myself as its much stronger and will never ever fail as its milled out of a single block of alloy, just my 2 cents worth here but I know most are on a budget.

Pick what ever fitting you need to suit your setup, what ever you chose is going to be 1000% stronger and more reliable that stock and flow way better too.

You just cant go wrong with this type of setup and vtt's setup is as simple to put together as lego.

Oof, such a price increase of 2x...

I can email them to check if my proposed looking setup looks OK. I see their 'dual catch cans' is a mix of -10 and -8 AN, wonder if the BMS needs a larger barb fitting coming from -10 instead of -8...

Can I see photos of your catch can connections now?

I will assume:

You have a flapper valve connected to your stock VC. That flapper has a hose and clamp on it that goes to your BMS can inlet.
The outlet from that BMS can goes to your intake inlet using that U bend hose.
You have the RB external PCV. This is the one with the barb/nipple on it, not the one you put the plastic cap back over. This hose goes to the inlet of your mishimoto can. The outlet of this mishimoto can goes to a fitting that connects to your throttle body.

Assuming the above is true, then you have the typical 'external PCV' setup.

When you buy this new cover you will need:

High Side:
10AN ORB to (5/8"?) hose barb
5/8" heater hose
Flapper valve

Screw the -10 ORB into one of the rear VTT ports. Slide a short run of heater hose over this barb, connect your flapper valve to this hose, and then connect your BMS can to the other end, just like it was originally. So the only difference is how the flapper valve connects to the VC.

Low Side:
10AN ORB to 1/2" barb or whatever works with your current hose.
barb check valve
Screw the 10AN orb into the other port, use some proper fitting heater hose to connect the check valve to this barb, this replaces the PCV valve.
Connect the other end of this check valve to your mishimoto inlet just like you would connect to the barb coming off the stock VC. Make sure you cannot blow into the mishimoto side of the check valve, as you do not want boost from entering the crank case.



You do not use the RB PCV valve, because there is not a place to screw it. You use a normal check valve in this case.

You don't have to buy these parts exactly, but I gave you links to reference. The size of the hose, 5/8 or 1/2, I guess thats up to you to figure out what size you need exactly. You don't have to use hose barbs on the low side, this is an opportunity to convert to stainless steel hoses if you wanted. Its more money and more pain to work with and scratch things (they also conduct electricity so keep them away from your battery posts).

So hopefully its clear, the only thing changing is the fittings from the VT to the inlets of both your catch cans. The outlets from your catch cans go to the normal places.

The main take aways:

There is no more RB PCV Valve, you are now using a normal check valve, preferably a very high quality one
The flapper has now lost both ends of its OEM connections, and you'll need to put heater hose on the VC side as well in order to keep it in the system.

Got it... those were similar parts to what I was looking at but wasn't clear on hookups of RB vs something else needed. Flapper valve is something I can find elsewhere...

I would love to drop money for the VTT dual setup but not YET. Trying to reuse what I have!



Thanks for the help, I should be able to piece it together from here. Sorry for diluting this thread so much, but it seemed like a relevant spot.

 

[martymil]

You can definitely reuse your current setup with some fittings and adapters.

I know the cnc valve cover is expensive, its not for everyone thats why the cast piece was made.

Thats why I like spoolstreet we are here to help each other and most vendors like myself will try and help you if we can.

 

[doublespaces]

see their 'dual catch cans' is a mix of -10 and -8 AN, wonder if the BMS needs a larger barb fitting coming from -10 instead of -8...

That's because the Stock PCV outlet size is more suitable for -8 and also, it's a vacuum line driven by a fairly powerful engine vacuum source so restriction isn't as big a deal.

Got it... those were similar parts to what I was looking at but wasn't clear on hookups of RB vs something else needed. Flapper valve is something I can find elsewhere..

The flapper valve you need is just your OEM flapper valve. It's what your bms inlet connects to.

EDIT: You could dump the flapper valve, install a check valve which might be cleaner than the hose barb stuff, and then you can use the vacuum break from VTT. The vacuum break goes on a third port, typically on the front but it provides the relief, the restricted flow that a normal check valve doesn't.

 

[derekgates]

Thanks for the replies. I hope it was informative for anyone else looking into this.

You are all a wealth of knowledge!

 

[miller335i]

Hi All. Just had a Vargas CNC non-cast Valve cover installed. 25k on new crate engine. Single Mishi catch can on the cold side. engine never smoked before. RB drain lines, nothing else done, and it smokes at idle, catch can is clean. After driving for e few minutes no smoke at idle. Let the car cool down and start it, smoke is back. Again no smoke before the VC change. I know the new VC does not have the internal parts that the stock one does. How can I get it to stop smoking? I believe i need more vacuum. But then again I am a noob so...

 

[Reformatt]

That's because the Stock PCV outlet size is more suitable for -8 and also, it's a vacuum line driven by a fairly powerful engine vacuum source so restriction isn't as big a deal.




The flapper valve you need is just your OEM flapper valve. It's what your bms inlet connects to.

EDIT: You could dump the flapper valve, install a check valve which might be cleaner than the hose barb stuff, and then you can use the vacuum break from VTT. The vacuum break goes on a third port, typically on the front but it provides the relief, the restricted flow that a normal check valve doesn't.

Just a mini word of caution the VTT forward most connection, I was unable to utilize that position and close the hood.
Maybe the E92 hood sits down lower not sure but just be cautious.
Other than that very happy with that valve cover and catch can assembly.