Twisted Tuning X-Drive Transfer Case Mount Inserts (Group Buy)

[Cheezy]

How are your engine mounts?

Car has 100k on it, i have service records for everything and i dont recall seeing that they were done, but the passenger one looked newer than drivers when i dropped subframe over the winter. Car is fbo++ with custom 3" exhaust. Basically a maximum effort stock turbo build.

 

[Ricky_335xi6mt]

Car has 100k on it, i have service records for everything and i dont recall seeing that they were done, but the passenger one looked newer than drivers when i dropped subframe over the winter. Car is fbo++ with custom 3" exhaust. Basically a maximum effort stock turbo build.

If your doing the transfer case mount u might as well upgrade the engine mounts too and send it lol. Oh I'll have 034 mounts mounts for sale soon too

 

[Twisted Tuning]

Just want to make a post about this and thank member @Cheezy for relaying some photos to me during his install. He had some issues getting the front insert to fully insert into the stock mount. After sending me pictures and some PM's given back and for over the last few day, he has helped me figure out what the issue is.

The photo below is his mount and where it stopped.....

If you've taken a look at the published install manual, you know that the mount insert is supposed to seat pretty much flush with the OEM mount as seen below....

I went out and purchased 4 mounts from 3 different places and what i found was that 1 of 4 of these new mounts (OEM part numbers) had some small difference in the stock mount shaft diameter. I think i got lucky to get one that was different without needing to buy more.

3 of the 4 mounts the casting is a straight cast from the start down to the rubber. one of the mounts however started the exact same size, but as it moved down to the rubber portion of the mount. The diameter of the shaft was actually larger by 0.49mm (we'll round up to .5mm) so its tapered. So looks like the same part number has a variance in casting somehow.

This is what myself and @Cheezy agreed is the reason his front insert did not seat all the way in. I have no idea why this is the case. as the OEM numbers were the same on all 4 of these new mounts. But this is what we found.

So now, how to handle this possible issue? Being that i cannot predict which mount casting you guys may have in the car since they are the same OEM part number. It's virtually impossible for me to know which style you as the customer has in the car. The only way to know is to either measure the mount with a micrometer or do a test install.

These inserts will be able to be squeezed into place by hand. So if the mount stops, you more than likely have the tapered mount and the center/rear of the front mount insert needs to be opened up a bit.

This can easily be done with a dremel by adding a few minutes to the install by using a dremel sanding bit to remove some material evenly around the center bore of the Front mount insert. Again, we are talking .49mm which is about the thickness of a fingernail.

So, in the event of someone having the tapered mount. I will offer them being able to send the insert back and i open it up and send back. Or i can send the sanding bit for the dremel with new orders or current ones i can send in the mail and you guys can do it yourself.

Just trying to figure a best route remedy for this. I would just increase the center bore diameter, but in the event the owner has the straight mount casting. The center bore of the insert would be bigger, and fit looser than i'd like and possibly knock a bit.

Asking for your thoughts?

 

[Cheezy]

If your doing the transfer case mount u might as well upgrade the engine mounts too and send it lol. Oh I'll have 034 mounts mounts for sale soon too

Honestly theres a lot of things i should probably do and its all gonna come in due time. Im not going to do 034 mounts with the recent failures tho.

 

[doublespaces]

Just want to make a post about this and thank member @Cheezy for relaying some photos to me during his install. He had some issues getting the front insert to fully insert into the stock mount. After sending me pictures and some PM's given back and for over the last few day, he has helped me figure out what the issue is.

The photo below is his mount and where it stopped.....

View attachment 10055


If you've taken a look at the published install manual, you know that the mount insert is supposed to seat pretty much flush with the OEM mount as seen below....

View attachment 10056



I went out and purchased 4 mounts from 3 different places and what i found was that 1 of 4 of these new mounts (OEM part numbers) had some small difference in the stock mount shaft diameter. I think i got lucky to get one that was different without needing to buy more.

3 of the 4 mounts the casting is a straight cast from the start down to the rubber. one of the mounts however started the exact same size, but as it moved down to the rubber portion of the mount. The diameter of the shaft was actually larger by 0.49mm (we'll round up to .5mm) so its tapered. So looks like the same part number has a variance in casting somehow.

This is what myself and @Cheezy agreed is the reason his front insert did not seat all the way in. I have no idea why this is the case. as the OEM numbers were the same on all 4 of these new mounts. But this is what we found.

So now, how to handle this possible issue? Being that i cannot predict which mount casting you guys may have in the car since they are the same OEM part number. It's virtually impossible for me to know which style you as the customer has in the car. The only way to know is to either measure the mount with a micrometer or do a test install.

These inserts will be able to be squeezed into place by hand. So if the mount stops, you more than likely have the tapered mount and the center/rear of the front mount insert needs to be opened up a bit.

This can easily be done with a dremel by adding a few minutes to the install by using a dremel sanding bit to remove some material evenly around the center bore of the Front mount insert. Again, we are talking .49mm which is about the thickness of a fingernail.

View attachment 10057


So, in the event of someone having the tapered mount. I will offer them being able to send the insert back and i open it up and send back. Or i can send the sanding bit for the dremel with new orders or current ones i can send in the mail and you guys can do it yourself.

Just trying to figure a best route remedy for this. I would just increase the center bore diameter, but in the event the owner has the straight mount casting. The center bore of the insert would be bigger, and fit looser than i'd like and possibly knock a bit.

Asking for your thoughts?

This sounds like a core program to me. Would a core return fix this issue?

Buy a working core, and return a mount in good condition and get a refund. Other option, is to just buy the mount and roll the dice, if not, modify it yourself.

 

[Twisted Tuning]

This sounds like a core program to me. Would a core return fix this issue?

Buy a working core, and return a mount in good condition and get a refund. Other option, is to just buy the mount and roll the dice, if not, modify it yourself.

Core return not a viable option. Removing the actual entire mount itself is beyond a pita. You also need a special remover and installer to even be able to get the mount out and back in. Which will add a couple hundred bucks and more headache to the whole process.

And if you don't have the tool or mechanically inclined enough to buy the tool and use it yourself. You're now paying a shop for like 4+ hours or so of work rather than 1-2.

This is exactly the reason I decided not to make a a full Mount replacement. Cost and the difficulty of installation.

Most enthusiasts already have a dremel or know a friend who does. So at that point....

$6 bucks for the sanding/grinder bit and 10 minutes extra to remove a bit of material I think is the better route. Whether the power does it or opts to send to me to do it

 

[Cheezy]

Yea raise it to 900rpm and let us know how it feels

First i must say after one week , i started the car this morning and didnt notice the vibration.. i did raise the idle to 900rpm. All it did was change the frequency of vibration, however it was a little less noticeable.... but who the hell wants a 900rpm idle. I raised it to 700 and i think thats where it will stay. Its nothing too major, and you will get use to it. Just expect it if you do this upgrade.

 

[Ricky_335xi6mt]

First i must say after one week , i started the car this morning and didnt notice the vibration.. i did raise the idle to 900rpm. All it did was change the frequency of vibration, however it was a little less noticeable.... but who the hell wants a 900rpm idle. I raised it to 700 and i think thats where it will stay. Its nothing too major, and you will get use to it. Just expect it if you do this upgrade.

Nice. How does it feel on the road. Like wot

 

[Cheezy]

Nice. How does it feel on the road. Like wot

Honestly havent done much wot, as you can see in the previous post by justin, my mount isn't in properly and i havent had time to get under the car and redo it. I dont want to push the car for fear of damaging something, and im thinking the feeling may change when i do solve the issue. What little time ive had the car at wot it felt violent, but ive done a lot of work on my car all at once, went fbo, mount insert, exhaust, cf hood, alignment. And cant tell whats doing what. Violent and loud is all i can say

 

[Twisted Tuning]

Updated install manual for those casting variations. Also added it to the product description.........

https://twistedtuning.com/products/twisted-tuning-bmw-x-drive-transfer-case-mount-inserts

 

[Cheezy]

Heres a little secret for you. As you all know, my mount inserts were not correctly seated into the mount. After disassembly, dremeling, and reassembling the car, i can tell you that nvh while normal driving has decreased to an unnoticeable level. I believe nvh @ idle has stayed about the same, and wot may be just a little quieter, but still vibrates the car about the same. Its hard for me to explain this in a way that everyone will understand. To me it's tolerable. But if youre opposed to adding any nvh to your car, this isnt for you.

 

[Mike335xi]

Any more reviews on this? Also, any chance of making a poly version after feedback from the steel?

 

[Jeffman]

I’m up for an update, too.

 

[The Banshee]

Any more reviews? I have a set but am hesitant to have them installed as I am not looking to increase NVH in any significant way.

 

[Cheezy]

Any more reviews? I have a set but am hesitant to have them installed as I am not looking to increase NVH in any significant way.

You could just install, if you don't like it uninstall. Nvh is subjective

 

[Maximum96]

Nvh with the mount insert is too much for me, wish he did poly ones instead like originally planned, had to raise idle to 800 a little better and still too much nvh, and revving it gets worse as rpms increase. I had to dremel to get it to fit flush...I may take it off down the road...
@Cheezy as you drive you barely notice, as I drive it gets worse, wierd...
The nice I can say is that the car reminds me of an old muscle car, instant neck breaking acceleration and nice crisp shifts.

 

[Cheezy]

Nvh with the mount insert is too much for me, wish he did poly ones instead like originally planned, had to raise idle to 800 a little better and still too much nvh, and revving it gets worse as rpms increase. I had to dremel to get it to fit flush...I may take it off down the road...
@Cheezy as you drive you barely notice, as I drive it gets worse, wierd...
The nice I can say is that the car reminds me of an old muscle car, instant neck breaking acceleration and nice crisp shifts.

Well that sucks that it's too much for you. I agree a poly one would solve a lot of people's indecisiveness to purchase, plus it would make modifying easier when necessary. My idle is at 700, nvh only gets bad in the higher rpms. I had the same feeling of driving an old muscle car on my first drive haha

 

[Jeffman]

“Instant neck-breaking acceleration and crisp shifts”.
Now that’s race car performance!
Like.

 

[Twisted Tuning]

Nvh with the mount insert is too much for me, wish he did poly ones instead like originally planned, had to raise idle to 800 a little better and still too much nvh, and revving it gets worse as rpms increase. I had to dremel to get it to fit flush...I may take it off down the road...
@Cheezy as you drive you barely notice, as I drive it gets worse, wierd...
The nice I can say is that the car reminds me of an old muscle car, instant neck breaking acceleration and nice crisp shifts.

Well that sucks that it's too much for you. I agree a poly one would solve a lot of people's indecisiveness to purchase, plus it would make modifying easier when necessary. My idle is at 700, nvh only gets bad in the higher rpms. I had the same feeling of driving an old muscle car on my first drive haha

the main reason for not going urethane is because of the added cost. Thats the issue with low volume products. can it be made? absolutely. but at what cost? and is that cost something people are willing to pay? probably not haha.

 

[Mike335xi]

Ordered one yesterday. I’ll try and post results when I put it in. Hopefully sometime next week