No there isn't a port for it on the Berk muffler. Its been plugged for about 2 years now.
stveclrk's (slow135) MMP Turbo build thread
- Thread starter Steven@ClarkPerformanceFab
- Start date
Is that what the vacuum line off the brake booster that runs along the strut tower goes to? Never really thought about it till you just said something.
Its the 3/8 vibrant hose. Part number is 20425. Just search it on amazon. The fittings are the stock fittings. I just used a box cutter blade to split the stock hose and pull it off the fittings.
So today I finished installing the FPR. I pulled the top hat from the drivers side and removed the stock FPR. I used a 1/4 x 1.5" stainless socket head bolt and 2x1/4" stainless washers to plug and ground the hole after removing the FPR. I also pulled the stock line out and detached it from the pump on the passenger side. I cut the grounding wire connector from the drivers side tophat and used a 1/4" ring connector and sandwiched it between two washers and grounded it using the plug bolt. Took it out for a couple test pulls and the fuel pressure in boost drops a bit low so I'll have to adjust the FPR. My brake and DTC light also came on while I was out so with my luck one of my sensors just went bad. I'm going to hook it up to INPA to read the diagnostics and find out whats up. I'm leaving in the morning for work and wont be back to play with the car till next sunday. So when I get back the plan is to read the DTC codes with INPA, adjust the setting on the FPR, and install the PR coils after I get a clean log.
Do you have rheingold/ISDA-D? That software is really awesome, not sure how it compares to INPA in that regard though.
I've been told about it but I dont have a copy of the software. I heard its a lot easier to use than INPA though.
Here is a progress update on the build. I just got back today from my training at Camp Bullis (had to make sure the terrorists dont win) and I read the DTC code. Its showing 5E46 which has something to do with steering wheel angle/position not alligning with the wheels. When I did the turbo install I think I put the subframe back on a hair off to the left and it moved the steering rack with it and made the steering wheel sit about 1/2" to the right when going straight. So I scheduled an alignment and went to go adjust the tie rods to bring the steering wheel back to center till my appointment. After about an hour I realized that the inner and outer tie rods are rusted/corroded together and I'll need to get some new ones to get the alignment done. I just ordered a set of Febi Bilstein tie rods with new boots as a kit on amazon that should get here by next weekend.
I for sure want a copy. Just not sure of where to upload a file that size. Are you able to compress the file and email it?
Hahahahahaha, i can't tell if you're serious or not. 70Gb is the compressed size.
Damn. I was serious. I didn't realize how big the actual file was. That has to be enormous.
https://bmw.spoolstreet.com/threads/recent-version-of-rheingold-ista-d-p.2103/
Spread it around, i won't seed forever.
Spread it around, i won't seed forever.
Thanks Traf! I'm going to try to download it now.
Update: I got the PR coils in and reflashed the MHD map. I was able to get the engine cover back on by trimming a bit of sound deadening liner out. Doing my best to keep it as sleeper looking as possible. I made sure that every connection point was snapped on and snug. I also used dielectric grease on all of the plug wire connections to the spark plugs and igniter boxs. Did my best to clean up the wire loom but it is for sure a PITA. Besides that the car is idling smoothly. I kept the gap at .018 for the time being so I can get a good comparison of the logs.
Update: I got the PR coils in and reflashed the MHD map. I was able to get the engine cover back on by trimming a bit of sound deadening liner out. Doing my best to keep it as sleeper looking as possible. I made sure that every connection point was snapped on and snug. I also used dielectric grease on all of the plug wire connections to the spark plugs and igniter boxs. Did my best to clean up the wire loom but it is for sure a PITA. Besides that the car is idling smoothly. I kept the gap at .018 for the time being so I can get a good comparison of the logs.
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