My seat belt chime is deactivated. Unless it sounds the same as when codes are popping up I cant be sure. And why is he posting on FB? Should be posting here where it matters.
Schrick Cams for the N54 Finally!
- Thread starter brecken
- Start date
I haven't been in my car in a long time, but from memory, a code only chimes once.
Sounds more like a seat belt chime. He should put his seat belt on
That's definitely the seat belt chime lol
The half engine light tone is a different pitch.
Yup. Still need ghost cam for real cams, lol.
Seat belt chime. Several hundred miles on the 268 high lift, still no codes. Car is running great, just started the i8a0s boostbox tuning with Jake. Car spools fucking fast even with 1.03ar... 0 wgdc hitting wg (17.4lbs) at 3750rpm.
Still some bugs in the i8a0s tune, they have ije0s nailed down from the sound of it. Hopefully more progress tomorrow.
Being real here, you shouldn't invest in cams until you've at least committed to a basic port job, which is the low hanging fruit for flow/power. Just going by the numbers here.
Unfortunately we are changing a bunch of things at one time (including turbos), so we won't be able to provide any before/after information because of the too many moving pieces problem. I bought Sean's low-lift Schrick cams to go with the head we are porting. I doubt I would have bought the cams with the head being stock. Unfortunately there is little real information on this choice, at least from my browsing the web. Well except for some of the info VTT posted, which I appreciated. Other than that, I'd likely follow @V8bait's view on this, given his experience and knowledge.
The hard part is, it gets to be an expensive endeavor. You likely buy a spare head for porting, have the machine shop dip the head to clean it, inspect, and do any milling necessary to the face, have someone port/polish it, buy parts for installing the head, on a low-lift cam you will at least do valve seals (I've understood stock springs are fine for the low-lift, but I'm not 100% sure of this yet), on higher lift cams, one is looking at springs and retainers ... and maybe valves depending on what one is doing with their motor. Assuming you know how to do all the work to pull the head apart, assemble the head and install it yourself, I'm guessing this is a minimum $3.5-4.5k exercise (stock valvetrain with cams, add another $800 if doing springs, and another $800 if doing valves). And then, I suspect, you need someone to tune the car that knows how to deal with the curveball thrown at the car when the cams behave differently than what the VANOS/DME expect. I think Justin's "being real here" was likely spot on.
Filippo
The hard part is, it gets to be an expensive endeavor. You likely buy a spare head for porting, have the machine shop dip the head to clean it, inspect, and do any milling necessary to the face, have someone port/polish it, buy parts for installing the head, on a low-lift cam you will at least do valve seals (I've understood stock springs are fine for the low-lift, but I'm not 100% sure of this yet), on higher lift cams, one is looking at springs and retainers ... and maybe valves depending on what one is doing with their motor. Assuming you know how to do all the work to pull the head apart, assemble the head and install it yourself, I'm guessing this is a minimum $3.5-4.5k exercise (stock valvetrain with cams, add another $800 if doing springs, and another $800 if doing valves). And then, I suspect, you need someone to tune the car that knows how to deal with the curveball thrown at the car when the cams behave differently than what the VANOS/DME expect. I think Justin's "being real here" was likely spot on.
Filippo
There's several people who have low lifts and high lifts on the forum with various iterations of head builds. It's not all consolidated and a few of us are still in the build/tuning process (me, Filippo, etc)
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